Cusco Ignition Amplifier Install Writeup/Review
#1
Cusco Ignition Amplifier Install Writeup/Review
This is my first write up, so bear with me. The install is first and the review is after.
I was wanting to upgrade my ignition and was looking for an alternative to the HKS Twin Power. The TP is getting old, and although you can still find them, I was looking to buy a newer piece of equipment. I originally was looking for a SplitfFire Dspark Max, but then I found this on RHD Japan. Not a bad price for what you get. You will need to buy the vehicle specific harness in addition to the unit itself.
This product was never made for the US market and the installation instructions that come with it are in Japanese; however, after using the Google translating app on my phone I was able to figure it out. The product was imported to the US for the Toyota 86 and the instructions are the same, so you can follow this guide.
Now to get to the install: This thing is unnecessarily confusing. Like the twin power it was created for multiple vehicles, so a lot of the wires and connectors are not used. Before popping the hood on your car you want to take care of the harness.
1.) Start with the vehicle specific harness. Cut the red wire coming from the connector that will attach to the amplifier's harness itself. Tape the end of it to avoid any potential shorts.
2.) There is plug that comes with the kit that looks like a spare. It in fact a dummy plug and needs to be plugged in. Go ahead and review the top and bottom photos to unsure everything is plug up correctly before installing in the car. The grounding wire that comes off the amplifier is a little dorky. It has an extra spade connector that is not used. I assume it is that way to allow provisions for more grounding wires in the future.
3.) Now that you have figured out what plugs into what; go ahead and disconnect everything and test fit it in the car. One of the things I like about this kit is that it comes with a bracket to mount the box. I chose to mount mine on the driver's side wheel well underneath the intake elbow and brake master. There is already a pre threaded hole from Mazda there. You will need a m8x1.25 screw. This is a common suspension and body screw on Mazda's. I pulled mine off a junked ND Miata upper control arm.
4.) Next, locate the connector that connects your car's starting/charging harness to your ignition coils. It should be somewhere behind your power steering pump and below your throttle body. Disconnect connectors and connect the vehicle specific harness to them. Below is a picture of the vehicle specific harness connected.
5.) The rest of the install should be straight forward. Connect the connectors and secure the ground wire to the negative lead on the battery. If you install the box where I did, you will need to shorten the grounding wire. The vehicle specific harness will be too long also. Rather than cutting the wires for it, I coiled it up with zip ties and it sits underneath my brake master cylinder.
I was wanting to upgrade my ignition and was looking for an alternative to the HKS Twin Power. The TP is getting old, and although you can still find them, I was looking to buy a newer piece of equipment. I originally was looking for a SplitfFire Dspark Max, but then I found this on RHD Japan. Not a bad price for what you get. You will need to buy the vehicle specific harness in addition to the unit itself.
This product was never made for the US market and the installation instructions that come with it are in Japanese; however, after using the Google translating app on my phone I was able to figure it out. The product was imported to the US for the Toyota 86 and the instructions are the same, so you can follow this guide.
Now to get to the install: This thing is unnecessarily confusing. Like the twin power it was created for multiple vehicles, so a lot of the wires and connectors are not used. Before popping the hood on your car you want to take care of the harness.
1.) Start with the vehicle specific harness. Cut the red wire coming from the connector that will attach to the amplifier's harness itself. Tape the end of it to avoid any potential shorts.
2.) There is plug that comes with the kit that looks like a spare. It in fact a dummy plug and needs to be plugged in. Go ahead and review the top and bottom photos to unsure everything is plug up correctly before installing in the car. The grounding wire that comes off the amplifier is a little dorky. It has an extra spade connector that is not used. I assume it is that way to allow provisions for more grounding wires in the future.
3.) Now that you have figured out what plugs into what; go ahead and disconnect everything and test fit it in the car. One of the things I like about this kit is that it comes with a bracket to mount the box. I chose to mount mine on the driver's side wheel well underneath the intake elbow and brake master. There is already a pre threaded hole from Mazda there. You will need a m8x1.25 screw. This is a common suspension and body screw on Mazda's. I pulled mine off a junked ND Miata upper control arm.
4.) Next, locate the connector that connects your car's starting/charging harness to your ignition coils. It should be somewhere behind your power steering pump and below your throttle body. Disconnect connectors and connect the vehicle specific harness to them. Below is a picture of the vehicle specific harness connected.
5.) The rest of the install should be straight forward. Connect the connectors and secure the ground wire to the negative lead on the battery. If you install the box where I did, you will need to shorten the grounding wire. The vehicle specific harness will be too long also. Rather than cutting the wires for it, I coiled it up with zip ties and it sits underneath my brake master cylinder.
The following 2 users liked this post by suzukisteve:
DaleClark (02-18-22),
Tim Benton (02-20-22)
#2
Review of Product
I will start with the pros: I like that this unit can be bought for brand new, at an affordable price. It comes with its own bracket to mount to the body. That means no bending aluminum from the hardware store or buying a 3D printed bracket.
Now for the cons: The instructions are in Japanese and there is not a lot of information about the product itself, regardless of what car it is being installed on. The wiring harness that comes with it is confusing and has way too many unnecessary connectors and wires. I feel like they could have easily made it more simplified/specific from the factory. Finally, it lacks the test light that the HKS Twin Power has. I thought the test light on the Twin Power was a brilliant idea to verify whether or not the system was receiving power or just conducting the electricity that was already going to the coils. I am pretty sure other ignition boxes such as the MSD boxes have test lights and I feel it is a must.
Overall if I could have done it again I would have probably just bought a gently used twin power. I did not know people where still selling harnesses for them and I would have picked up a new one from Banzai racing and called it a day. This product is not bad, just leaves a little to be desired. It seems that electronics fry with age and heat, which are two synonymous terms with Rx-7s. My hopes are that, this unit will last longer than a used HKS unit would.
Thanks for reading. -Stephen
Now for the cons: The instructions are in Japanese and there is not a lot of information about the product itself, regardless of what car it is being installed on. The wiring harness that comes with it is confusing and has way too many unnecessary connectors and wires. I feel like they could have easily made it more simplified/specific from the factory. Finally, it lacks the test light that the HKS Twin Power has. I thought the test light on the Twin Power was a brilliant idea to verify whether or not the system was receiving power or just conducting the electricity that was already going to the coils. I am pretty sure other ignition boxes such as the MSD boxes have test lights and I feel it is a must.
Overall if I could have done it again I would have probably just bought a gently used twin power. I did not know people where still selling harnesses for them and I would have picked up a new one from Banzai racing and called it a day. This product is not bad, just leaves a little to be desired. It seems that electronics fry with age and heat, which are two synonymous terms with Rx-7s. My hopes are that, this unit will last longer than a used HKS unit would.
Thanks for reading. -Stephen
Last edited by suzukisteve; 02-18-22 at 10:46 AM.
The following users liked this post:
DaleClark (02-18-22)
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Thanks Stephen!
Have you had a chance to try it out and see if there's any difference in the butt dyno?
If this does the same thing as the Twin Power, this could be a great option.
Dale
Have you had a chance to try it out and see if there's any difference in the butt dyno?
If this does the same thing as the Twin Power, this could be a great option.
Dale
#5
So my butt dyno has been a little out of configuration as of late. We have had fairly cold weather in Corpus and as a result my Rx-7 has felt like it has an extra 30hp. But I will say that the car feels really strong especially at the bottom and top end. I did a nice pull to 140mph (on other side of the border of course) and was shocked that the car just kept pulling. If I had to guess, this thing probably gives an extra 5hp if that... I just installed it more so for a failsafe against detonation.
#6
That would be a better question for someone with a lot of shop/dyno experience and a better understanding of electronics. I have no experience with the Twin Power or IGN coils, but I would assume it is similar to the Twin Power and less powerful than the IGN coils.
#7
Moderator
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this Cusco thing is a capacitor so it smooths out the voltage (looking at the graph), extra power would come from a more stable voltage at the coil
The following 2 users liked this post by j9fd3s:
Manny_Apex (02-18-22),
suzukisteve (02-18-22)
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