Current V-Mount Intercooler Options?
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Current V-Mount Intercooler Options?
It's starting to get warm here in California and I'm already seeing 210F water temps driving on the street in 85F weather. I'm ready to track my car, but I doubt I'll last but a few minutes on a road course before it overheats due to the GReddy FMIC blocking my Fluidyne radiator.
I'm thinking about my scrapping current setup for a V-Mount. I've searched but I can't find what V-Mount Intercoolers are availabe for the FD these days. The only ones I could find are the RX-7 Store and HKS kits.
Are there any other options?
I'm thinking about my scrapping current setup for a V-Mount. I've searched but I can't find what V-Mount Intercoolers are availabe for the FD these days. The only ones I could find are the RX-7 Store and HKS kits.
Are there any other options?
#3
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Rx7store.net has the HKS V mount which looks very nice but has a hefty price. The people there also made one for half the price and looks pretty nice too. You are going to have to relocate your battery if you have not already but the HKS setup does have enough room for a small battery kit. And you might want to get a nice vented hood to help the v mount cool down.
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Rx7store.net has the HKS V mount which looks very nice but has a hefty price. The people there also made one for half the price and looks pretty nice too. You are going to have to relocate your battery if you have not already but the HKS setup does have enough room for a small battery kit. And you might want to get a nice vented hood to help the v mount cool down.
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I have my battery relocated behind the drivers seat and I have a Scoot vented hood.
I also want to retain A/C. Last thing I want to do is drive around in 115F SoCal summers without A/C. I've been reading that HKS requires removing A/C, or if it only allows retention of R134a A/C for the 94+ FDs. I have a 93 FD, which uses R12.
The only V-Mount I know that allows you to keep A/C is the Knightsports kit, but I can't find any vendor that sells it.
I also want to retain A/C. Last thing I want to do is drive around in 115F SoCal summers without A/C. I've been reading that HKS requires removing A/C, or if it only allows retention of R134a A/C for the 94+ FDs. I have a 93 FD, which uses R12.
The only V-Mount I know that allows you to keep A/C is the Knightsports kit, but I can't find any vendor that sells it.
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#12
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I just bought a gotham racing v-mount and will recieve it in about 4 weeks. I will let you know how it goes. Originally they were selling a peakboost v-mount but didnt' like the turn around time and fabed their own. I had to send them my koyo rad so they could cut it up and rework it for the v-mount but that was included in the 1300 for the kit but he kit doesn't come with piping or coolant hoses and u have to extend the fan wiring.
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i'm looking to get the rx7store.net vmount. looks pretty good. using the greddy 2 row. price is good at 1500. just going to duct it really well. and i'm gonna fix my stock hood and modify it for venting... prefer the aluminum then the C/F personally.
Clos
Clos
#14
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Nengun ~ http://www.nengun.com/hks/intercooler-kit-type-r
Or Fab your own, option C is hit up the yahoo auctions over in japan if you have a friend there.
Or Fab your own, option C is hit up the yahoo auctions over in japan if you have a friend there.
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is you car possibly running hot because you haven't set your fans to come on earlier? when the weather here started to get warmer i was seeing slightly higher temps, so i went into the powerfc and set the fans to come on earlier. Temps are no rock solid with no other changes. Maybe doing that or FC thermoswitch mod might be the ticket vs spending thousands on a Vmount. You can try that in addition to ducting your current setup. ducting, especially for a track car, will make a huge difference. its worth a try at least.
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My Power FC is set to turn the fans on at 170F (however, they turn on way earlier than that for some reason). There is no question that the FMIC is the cause of the overheating problem--it's blocking airflow and preheating the air going through the radiator. I flushed my radiator last month too and filled it up with 80% water 20% coolant with a bottle of royal purple ice. It didn't improve cooling at all. I thought about ducting, but that's probably not going to improve cooling all that much. I'm planning to track the car, so i need maximum airflow.
A FMIC just isn't a good setup for the Southern California weather.
A FMIC just isn't a good setup for the Southern California weather.
#19
Mr. Links
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They have an English email address you can ask questions to. The person who it goes to is on this forum as well, but I don't think he visits too often as he's very busy: inukai@re-amemiya.co.jp
#20
Sexy Boo
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They have an English email address you can ask questions to. The person who it goes to is on this forum as well, but I don't think he visits too often as he's very busy: inukai@re-amemiya.co.jp
AH yes Inukai... Im currently talking with him, since im about to buy Re-amemiya dp!
but what i really want is some feedback from rx7club members...
oh and sry for jackin your thread magicjc... but it's already on the good topic so :P
#21
Mr. Links
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To be honest, I don't think you are going to get much better than talking to RE about it. Most of the people in the USA are probably using Rotary Extreme's version which I believe was modeled after RE-A's. Like anything, there are pros and cons, you just need to figure out what's the best fit for what you do with your car.
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My Power FC is set to turn the fans on at 170F (however, they turn on way earlier than that for some reason). There is no question that the FMIC is the cause of the overheating problem--it's blocking airflow and preheating the air going through the radiator. I flushed my radiator last month too and filled it up with 80% water 20% coolant with a bottle of royal purple ice. It didn't improve cooling at all. I thought about ducting, but that's probably not going to improve cooling all that much. I'm planning to track the car, so i need maximum airflow.
A FMIC just isn't a good setup for the Southern California weather.
A FMIC just isn't a good setup for the Southern California weather.
i am just a bit puzzled because there are so many cars with FMICs, street and track, and not all of them are suffering from these problems. i have just installed a front mount with a big griffin radiator but i haven't run the car yet.
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To be honest, I don't think you are going to get much better than talking to RE about it. Most of the people in the USA are probably using Rotary Extreme's version which I believe was modeled after RE-A's. Like anything, there are pros and cons, you just need to figure out what's the best fit for what you do with your car.
#24
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A FMIC for autocrossing is fine. I did 40+ laps on a sub 30 second autocross lap in 75F weather and my water temp stayed under 200F all day. However, when it's 85F+ outside the temps will get up over 220F on the street. That to me is overheating. Imagine if I took it to a track. I never let it go any higher than 220F since that's when I start hearing bubbling in my engine bay.
I'm looking for a rock solid temperature of around 180-200F max while doing 20 minutes of lapping on a road course.
I went to a custom race shop and asked them to fabricate ducting to seal off my radiator w/ my FMIC, and the guy told me that it's probably not going to work in his experience with FMICs. FMICs are just not going to work in road racing applications. A VMIC is the only real solution for me.
#25
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I have a buddy who has run a FMIC on his car for years. His car was tracked very hard several times a year, even in 100+F ambient temps. Now, his car did run hotter than a similarly equipped car which was running a M2 Medium SMIC but it was not overheating. He did have some ducting to help with the airflow. His car was not a R1, but he did add a second OEM oil cooler for the dual setup. He did admit that if he had to do all over again, he wouldn't go with the FMIC for his use.
Now people had pointed out in the past that majority of the Japanese tuners used FMIC's on their circuit cars. So with some additional work, a FMIC can for for this application. However, I still feel (and I think most people do as well) that it's not the right part for a car that will be road racing.
Personally, I'm not convinced that a v-mount is worth the money, but for some it may be.