CPU2 Ideas, Recommendations, Repairs?
CPU2 Ideas, Recommendations, Repairs?
I have been dealing with the infamous CPU 2 malfunction since i bought my FD a few years ago, i took it out and disassembled it to look for any burnt traces or resistors but it looked spotless on the inside, i also reached out to Michael Gagne about potential repair and he said he doesn't work on them due to their tendency to simply continue to fail. The weirdest part for me is that the CPU 2 will intermittently start to function normally again at random startups then as soon as the car sits and cools down for a few hours goes right back to clicking. i have provided 2 videos of the functioning and not functioning state, does anyone have any ideas why it will work sometimes and not work after the car cools down/sits? (symptoms are the usual, clicking sound, blinking seatbelt light, and pulsing window function)
they're available new, is it not? I bought one some time ago. It's pricey! https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...ule-fd0167560b
or Michael Gagne can repair them https://www.facebook.com/Str3atWarrior

or Michael Gagne can repair them https://www.facebook.com/Str3atWarrior
So, anything aside from repair/replace is going to involve a heavy amount of wiring. PDMs are awesome and crazy expensive. Depending on which features you're keeping and/or eliminating, you could also try a Programmable Logic Controller. I'm using one in mine so far to control blinkers/hazards, and the timer for the rear defogger.
Essentially it is a set of low power relays (the one I have says to not run more than 7-8 Amps through a single circuit) and you can program each circuit. Speed of blinkers, time to remain open from initial input, delay circuit opening etc....they have em for 110V, and 220V AC, 12V and 24V DC
Essentially it is a set of low power relays (the one I have says to not run more than 7-8 Amps through a single circuit) and you can program each circuit. Speed of blinkers, time to remain open from initial input, delay circuit opening etc....they have em for 110V, and 220V AC, 12V and 24V DC
Last edited by JulioGee; May 26, 2025 at 06:44 AM.
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Replace ALL the capacitors on its board and it will be as good as new. Use low ESR high temp type for electrolytic ones and will be ok for another 30 years. Most CPU#2's out there have bad capacitors at this age.
interesting, mazdapartsfactor.com and tascaparts show it available, I've used these places several times with good results
maybe old stock or old info. call or email Ray Crowe is also an option
maybe old stock or old info. call or email Ray Crowe is also an option
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