I have a few questions:

-Why is the Charge Control and Relief solenoids teed together?
-The yellow line from the y-pipe goes through the UIM, then to the pressure chamber, right?
-How does the Pressure chamber fit in the ACV location? And what does the pressure chamber do, is it really necessary?
-Are resistors needed for the removed solenoids, ACV, AWS, etc connectors? Ifo so what kind?


I think thats it. Thanks!

 

I'm not sure about the engineering, but it just works that way.
Yes, it took me awhile to find that one too since it's not connected in the pic.
For seq. operation the press. chamber is critical. I built a bracket where the ACV was and mounted it in the same postion as the diagram.
Use 330ohm 1/2W resistors if you don't have a PFC, otherwise it won't work. I'm not sure if you need the resistors in all the open connectors or not, but I just put them in all of the open ones.

 

Thanks!

I forgot one other question

-I noticed the line for the FPR is missing, I thought that the FPR line is necessary for the FPR to funtion properly.

 

Yes, he mentions that in the write-up. You keep the fpr line hooked up. It goes somewhere under the sec. fuel rail. The car will run without it hooked up though.

-Tim

 

I have a PFC, so I guess the resistors are not needed. I will be doing it to my friends car as well, who is still using the stock ECU. How do you wire the resistors in? I read through threads that only the female connectors need them, but I may just do them all.

 

One more thing, is the ISC (idle-speed control) removed during the simplifcation?

 

NO! Your idle will be hard to control w/o it.

 

Yes, you need the FPR, but the FPR Solenoid can be eliminated by connecting the FPR directly to the diagonal nipple at the base of the LIM.

 

Hmmm, I thought it was already connected directly to the FPR, lol.

 

FPR solenoid is used for "Hot starting" I personally kept it. Someone will probably not like this, but you don't need the resistors even on the stock ECU. I didn't use any and got no error codes and car ran fine and boosted fine.

 

Did you actually check the codes or just not see the CEL? Not all codes trigger a CEL, some of them are just stored.

 

I didn't check the codes, but I didn't have to. As I said, car ran fine and boosted fine. Check engine light comes on when there's a problem that affects operation, right?

 

SO how are they connected then?

 

Not really. CEL comes on for a number of "trivial" reasons as well, such as ACV not working or if the electronic feedback EGR fails on a Cali '93 or all '94's.

 

I just crimped the applicable connector to each end of the resistor and plugged it into the harness. I also wrapped them is heatshrink tubing to protect the bare metal on the connector and resistor. BTW, take the plastic insulation off the connectors to make it easier to get a good crimp on the thin wire of the resistors.
If you still do not understand, I can take a pic.

-Tim

 

I would not recommend skipping on the resistors

 

I am going to skip on them for my car, because of having the PFC, but on my friends I will do it since he will be using the stock ecu for now.


One resistor is required per connector and you just loop it, right?

 

Yeah, you don't need it if you have a PFC.

And yes, just loop it from one terminal to the other in each harness connector.

 

I'm not sure that you are entirely accurate. No resistors were used. All emissions crap was removed and I got no check engine light at all. Car ran smoothly and boosted perfect. The reason it was suggested to use resistors was only to prevent an error code. However, that was not the case with my car. I'm not trying to deter anyone from using the resistors, if that's where they feel comfortable. I just don't see the point in wasting the effort and the money.

 

A "CEL" and an "Error Code" can be two different things. CEL = Check Engine Light, a code can just be stored but not necessarily trigger the CEL.

While removing some of the emissions components shouldn't throw the ECU into limp mode, there are other things (and not throw a CEL) if you aren't careful.

Plus, it will be a pain in the butt to troubleshoot a problem later when you have to dig through 4-5 engine codes to get to the one cause you a problem.

 

Thanks for breaking down the "CEL". I should also note that I drove the car for about a month before upgrading to a PFC. PFC = Power FC

Just my experience.

If you're gonna stay stock, go for the resistors......

Who would wanna stay stock?

 

Well, you are confusing CEL with engine codes. They aren't the same thing. One of them can happen without the other (i.e. an engine code without a CEL).