Terrh

iTrader: (7)

Some background: about a month ago I pucrchased a lightly crashed '93.. it's back from the bodyshop (at much less cost than I was expecting, it was a pretty easy fix!), so these are pretty much all issues resulting from that.

so I've got my FD pretty close to finished, I'm just trying to sort out a few last issuses.. there are some connectors that I have NO idea what they do and can't find anything to connect them to, so I'll take some pictures of them tomorrow and ask.. but for now!

When I turn on the headlights, they don't pop up. The drivers side lights but the passanger side doesn't. (may be a bulb on the passanger side). When I turn the key ON howerever the drivers side raises and lowers itself. Does it every time I turn the car on. That bulb works correctly in both low and high beam.

the car keeps beeping 4 short beeps, I guess for the power steering which I don't have a belt hooked to. Can I disable this somehow? I don't like the power steering + I removed the a/c compressor (along with the rest of the a/c, not much use for it here in canada) so now the belt doesn't fit.

The "add coolant" light stays on forever and I get the associated warning buzzer. Where's the sensor for this? The car does have the proper amount of coolant.

I eliminated the AST if that matters...

My rear suspension seems to be noisy as hell, is this a common thing and if so what's wrong and how do I fix it!

my 4W ABS light is on, how can I find out why, or is abs failure as common in these as it is in FC's?

What should I do to this immeadiatly as far as reliability mods go?

The car has a 3" exhaust leading to the stock muffler and would appear to otherwise be stock.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a nightmare. You've got all the usually problems and then some. I would double check all the wiring and grounds. You can download the FSM from the sticky in this section of the forum.
As for the coolant sensor if it's busted you can just ground it until you get a new sensor.
The ABS could be a number of things, I would check the wheel speed sensors.

I hope you have an upgraded ECU if you already have a full exhaust.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

ecu is stock I'd guess.

But who the hell knows? Used cars ftl

It's going on a dyno in a few days to verify that the AFR's are reasonable.

it hasn't seen WOT yet and won't until I am 100% sure that the engine is running well.

Where's the add coolant sensor at? And really, all the other above questions too :P

As far as being a nightmare, welll.... I bought it for less than what good FC's go for so I'll deal with the issues.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

also, the stock airbox was pretty much destroyed when the car was crashed so it's got dual K+N's on it now.. now that I've thought about it, I have some concerns..

as long as the boost at WOT is at or below 12PSI, there won't be any issues from the increased airflow? Car still has a stock catback, it just has a downpipe/midpipe (no cat right now, going to need one to past etest though so it will probably have one shortly)

KMAR

Go here, this rules, I always find what I'm looking for, organized too..... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

good luck.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

thanks for that, nowhere does it say where to find the add coolant sensor though!

Also, it appears that my rad fans aren't working despite being hooked up, I guess I'll hook them to a switch.

KMAR

http://robrobinette.com/water_temp_gauge.htm
Here is something from the Rob Robinette website, look at the 2nd picture down, that single wire that is comming out just below his tapped hole is the sensor your looking for.
For your fans, that is weird. You can study the wire diagram in the FSM, download it from here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/94-fsms-available-download-449950/
These links plus the one I gave you before should help out a lot. They help me out a lot! If it does not point you in the right direction I'm sure someone will read all this and may have a better idea. I'd do the fan mod if I were you anyways.
Have fun.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

the more I read, the more the stock cooling system disgusts me...

wtf was mazda thinking!

ok, I know where that wire is, I figured it was a temperature sending wire.

I'll just ground it if I can't make it work, I grounded it on my FC like 3 years ago :P

CantGoStraight

You didn't say where the car was lightly crashed at. Since most of your problems seem to be in the passenger area I'll guess that's where the damage was and tell you to check your wirring in that area. The fan relays and passenger headlight wirring may have been damaged as there both in that area. If your planning on running 12psi boost on the stock ECU then add a motor to your list of things to replace (you will be replacing it at that psi on the stock ECU) if the coolant system disgust you then you should have read through this forum long before getting the FD as you'll becomming across many other things that are sure to get under your skin about these cars. The level sensor for the coolant is on the front of the thermostat housing aprox 2" below the fill neck is black and has a black wire attached to it. Temporarily grounding it will stop the buzzer and light but gives you no indication should there be air in the system so that leaves the stock gauge which will be as much use to you as the bypassed level sensor. Not going WOT is no garuntee you won't over boost, mine typically makes full boost at around 1/2 throttle in 3rd and above depending on RPM.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

car was crashed in the front.

well, it's seen 12-13psi a few times now without an issue.. (though only below 4k).

If there's an easy way for it to only see 10psi, that'd be great.

we don't have shitty american **** 91 here, we have /real/ 94 octane fuel... That's probably why it hasn't died. I have no idea what a "safe" boost level for this car is, that's why I'm asking. I can't see 12PSI being not safe though, stock is 10!

The voltage regulator in the alternator is shot, I'm replacing the alternator whenever I get my lazy *** out to the garage to do it. No it's not being driven before it gets fixed. Yay for 17 volts.

Yeah there's alot of shitty stuff in these cars, like, the entire interior, to name one.

CantGoStraight

I live in Fla our gas is 93 octane. Factory is 10 psi and for the longest time people believed the three mod rule applied before an ECU was necessary. The thinking now is that your mods can be pretty much unlimited as long as you can maintain your boost level at 10psi. 94 octane or not over 10 psi leaves you very little margin for error on the stock ECU. Luck perhaps as you've atested you can reach this 12 to 13 psi at less than full rpm and more than likely less than full throttle which means higher boost levels may be possible without much effort and a time bomb waiting on the right instance with your present setup. The high voltage may also be playing some part in your luck as it changes what the ECU see's from the senso's as well. Best of luck to you.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

Fixed the alternator... Fixed the headlight as well - though now it seems to not be working again, at least it pops up!

fixed the boost issue as well - sorta - but now there is another problem (too much boost) - see my other thread for details here: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=574129