About 3 weeks ago, my Add Coolant warning would come on every time I started my car in the morning or after it had sat for a few hours. I kept adding coolant, and I even ordered a new alum. AST, but I finally found out that my coolant overflow tank is what is leaking. Does anyone have access to Mazda parts prices that could tell me how much a new one is? Also, does anyone know how difficult this is to replace? Thanx

 

2furious, a factory replacement overflow tank is about $90-100 and relatively simple to install yourself if you're fairly mechanically inclined. You should be able to get it from just about any Mazda dealer and might be able to find it online somewhere for a bit lower. If you'd rather pay about $150 for an aluminum one, Pettit Racing has one that works really well.

 

do you have a picture of what you are talking about. are you talking about the fill tank in the pass fender? sorry my brain is slow today

 

I hate to be the one to say it but........ does the overflow have a hole in the bottom or something? it is suppost to have a hole at the top which will let any extra coolant spill out. If your O-rings are going bad then exhaust gasses will force all of your coolant out the tank. You can check for holes just pull it off.... 10mm on the bottom scuff plate and 10mm bolts holding it on.

 

OK. I got it off and looked all over the whole thing and couldn't find a leak so far, and the tank was full when I looked. But that o-ring idea might be right b/c the other night while i was driving, the hose on the neck of my AST somehow came loose, and coolant and steam spewed everywhere. Could that be the exhaust that forced it off? I don't know. I'm putting in my Alum. AST today, and I might just get that Pettit overflow tank and a new radiator. But, I guess I should get my exhaust o-rings checked out?

 

The O-rings he is talking about are the ones that keep the coolant from going into the combustion chambers. If they are bad you have to disassemble the entire engine.

 

Not the news I wanted to hear, but thanks. Any clue what that's gonna cost me? Am I gonna be better to get a rebuild?

 

Fixing coolant O-rings IS a rebuild . You're looking at $3000 minimum out the door including parts and labor.

 

Just the thing I don't need right now! OK, here's a few more things going on that maybe someone can diagnose for me: the add coolant light and annoying beep keep coming on, then my temperature gauge goes up to almost H, then it drops back to normal and the light turns off. This happens like once every 5 minutes while I'm driving, but if the car is overheating I would'nt expect the temperature gauge to fall back down to normal every time. Also, my fan stayed on after I shut my car off. Is everything on my engine going downhill from here? I know alot of people have talked about how much the temp. gauge blows, so any idea? Thanks

 

Wow not cool. What is probably happening is you are getting air/boiling in the system which makes the sensor freak out. Get it towed to a rotary shop asap and ask them to flush the coolant system and replace the thermostat. Then get the system pressure tested for leaks. This should be about $50. From there if you need to replace any coolant hoses, then do that, but if the pressure test reveals the coolant is going into the engine, you need a rebuild. Definitely don't let it go to the H again, it should stay in the middle.

 

Nathan's right, change the thermostat & coolant flush & burping.

Check both fans are working correctly.

Sorry to hear about your problems. Don't drive the car until it is fixed! Have it towed to the shop.

 

I fiugre you mean the pressure test is $50, so do you know about how much replacing the thermostat and a system flush should run me? Thanks again for all the advice.

 

I was referring to everything, but now that I think of it $50 is too little, more like $100. A factory thermostat is only $15, antifreeze is $10, that leaves $75 for the labor, and this is a simple job.

 

Has anyone ever relocated their coolant overflow tank?

 

Thanks Nathan. I got my aluminum AST in today, so I guess I'll go ahead and put that one on. When I put in coolant this morning, the radiator leaked from the bottom, so I'm hoping that that's the only problem. I found a good deal on a OEM radiator, and I'm going to take my car into the shop and have them put that in when they do the rest of the coolant job. Is it reasonable to think that the coolant warning is going off for five minutes while it takes time to circulate coolant through the radiator, since it's empty at startup? That was my idea b/c I left the car at home today and when I got home, I started it. The coolant warning came on for about 7 minutes and then turned off. I let the car idle in the driveway for about 30-40 minutes, and the temp. stayed normal. So, I'll keep my fingers crossed and not drive it until I take it in for the radiator and coolant work. Thanks!