Coolant level and pre-clutch replacement questions
Coolant level and pre-clutch replacement questions
Concerning coolant levels, I checked the coolant on this FD I just bought and the system is full both under the filler neck cap and AST cap, is this normal?
The clutch doesn't engage, pedal pressure is good... I can make it roll 1-2mph with light throttle before it slips on dry pavement, hydraulics feel good so I ordered a clutch that showed up this morning, any other things I should check before I yank the trans out?
thanks
The clutch doesn't engage, pedal pressure is good... I can make it roll 1-2mph with light throttle before it slips on dry pavement, hydraulics feel good so I ordered a clutch that showed up this morning, any other things I should check before I yank the trans out?
thanks
Originally Posted by BoostFrenzy
Concerning coolant levels, I checked the coolant on this FD I just bought and the system is full both under the filler neck cap and AST cap, is this normal?
Originally Posted by BoostFrenzy
The clutch doesn't engage, pedal pressure is good... I can make it roll 1-2mph with light throttle before it slips on dry pavement, hydraulics feel good so I ordered a clutch that showed up this morning, any other things I should check before I yank the trans out?
Here's a good thread on the clutch:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/clutch-change-stock-fd-192545/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/clutch-change-stock-fd-192545/
I'm basically troubleshooting two problems here, the clutch which I think it simply just worn out and when you start it cold it puffs white/grey for 20 seconds or so HOWEVER it smells like unburnt fuel (burns eyes/nose) and NOT coolant, so i'm just looking for other telltale signs... also keep in mind the car hasn't driven on it's own power for 2 years and only been idled, maybe the plugs are shot
BoostFrenzy,
Do like I said in the other thread; do the maintenance items first and then see what symtoms the car still has. It will make troubleshooting a lot easier as you'll have normal maintenance taken care of and out of the equation.
Do like I said in the other thread; do the maintenance items first and then see what symtoms the car still has. It will make troubleshooting a lot easier as you'll have normal maintenance taken care of and out of the equation.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by BoostFrenzy
yeah i know i just don't want to do the clutch job to find out the motor has bad problems, was hoping to get some resolution before i embark on the tranny
1. Have a pressure test done on the fuel & coolant system
2. Have a compression test done on the engine
3. Have a hydrocarbon test done on the cooling system
Those combined will basically give you an idea of what's going on with the engine.
Originally Posted by BoostFrenzy
I'm basically troubleshooting two problems here, the clutch which I think it simply just worn out and when you start it cold it puffs white/grey for 20 seconds or so HOWEVER it smells like unburnt fuel (burns eyes/nose) and NOT coolant, so i'm just looking for other telltale signs... also keep in mind the car hasn't driven on it's own power for 2 years and only been idled, maybe the plugs are shot
how do i begin troubleshooting why it runs so rich then at startup? it doesn't always do it, maybe half the time... when ti doesn't you get the typical 5-10 seconds of lightly puffing oil
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
alphawolff
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
17
Nov 17, 2015 05:57 PM



