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Coolant level and pre-clutch replacement questions

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Old May 4, 2005 | 08:54 AM
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BoostFrenzy's Avatar
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Coolant level and pre-clutch replacement questions

Concerning coolant levels, I checked the coolant on this FD I just bought and the system is full both under the filler neck cap and AST cap, is this normal?

The clutch doesn't engage, pedal pressure is good... I can make it roll 1-2mph with light throttle before it slips on dry pavement, hydraulics feel good so I ordered a clutch that showed up this morning, any other things I should check before I yank the trans out?

thanks
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BoostFrenzy
Concerning coolant levels, I checked the coolant on this FD I just bought and the system is full both under the filler neck cap and AST cap, is this normal?
Yep. That is good.

Originally Posted by BoostFrenzy
The clutch doesn't engage, pedal pressure is good... I can make it roll 1-2mph with light throttle before it slips on dry pavement, hydraulics feel good so I ordered a clutch that showed up this morning, any other things I should check before I yank the trans out?
Not sure here, but it is advisable to replace the clutch fork too. It's a $20 piece that tends to develop hairline fractures over time. Search on it for more info.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:03 AM
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Mahjik's Avatar
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Here's a good thread on the clutch:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/clutch-change-stock-fd-192545/
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:14 AM
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Avoiding the tree lane
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well i've turned it off and heard "gurgling" before, kinda made me nervous...
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:31 AM
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I'm basically troubleshooting two problems here, the clutch which I think it simply just worn out and when you start it cold it puffs white/grey for 20 seconds or so HOWEVER it smells like unburnt fuel (burns eyes/nose) and NOT coolant, so i'm just looking for other telltale signs... also keep in mind the car hasn't driven on it's own power for 2 years and only been idled, maybe the plugs are shot
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:43 AM
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BoostFrenzy,

Do like I said in the other thread; do the maintenance items first and then see what symtoms the car still has. It will make troubleshooting a lot easier as you'll have normal maintenance taken care of and out of the equation.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:54 AM
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yeah i know i just don't want to do the clutch job to find out the motor has bad problems, was hoping to get some resolution before i embark on the tranny
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Old May 4, 2005 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by BoostFrenzy
yeah i know i just don't want to do the clutch job to find out the motor has bad problems, was hoping to get some resolution before i embark on the tranny
Well, if you "really" want some resolution:

1. Have a pressure test done on the fuel & coolant system
2. Have a compression test done on the engine
3. Have a hydrocarbon test done on the cooling system

Those combined will basically give you an idea of what's going on with the engine.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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From: Bath, OH
Originally Posted by BoostFrenzy
I'm basically troubleshooting two problems here, the clutch which I think it simply just worn out and when you start it cold it puffs white/grey for 20 seconds or so HOWEVER it smells like unburnt fuel (burns eyes/nose) and NOT coolant, so i'm just looking for other telltale signs... also keep in mind the car hasn't driven on it's own power for 2 years and only been idled, maybe the plugs are shot
The fact that the coolant was full and the smoke only lasts 20 sec or so indicates (IMO) no obvious problems in the cooling system.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 10:22 AM
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Avoiding the tree lane
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
how do i begin troubleshooting why it runs so rich then at startup? it doesn't always do it, maybe half the time... when ti doesn't you get the typical 5-10 seconds of lightly puffing oil
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Old May 4, 2005 | 11:34 AM
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If your car has not been driven in a long time, you should expect some smoke. Take it out for a drive, and clean it out a bit.
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