Hi all, just want to know if any of you have tried to change the clutch for their FD. Is it easy to change? How many hours of work will that require? What kind of tools do I need to do that job? Also, what clutch disc do you recommand me to get? I'm just a daily driver, I guess organic clutch is ok for me. But should I go with the stock Exedy ones? or is there some better ones available in the market? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Most FD people usually go with the ACT clutches. The Street/Strip clutch seems to be the most popular and a good balance for both types of driving.

I just did the clutch job a little while back. It's not fun. If you change the clutch, you should either replace or resurface your flywheel. If you are going to pull your flywheel at the same time (and you should), the job gets more interesting.

First thing, you'll need to be able to get the car at least 2 feet off the ground (usually that means jackstands at the very top). So, you need a decent floor jack.

Next, there are some special tools that may not be needed, but definitely make the job a LOT easier:

1. Pilot Bearing Puller (some shops rent these out with a clutch kit purchase) Not sure how you get around not using this tool.
2. Flywheel stopper (keeps the flywheel from moving when removing the nut)
3. I'm not sure what this other tool is called, but it looks like an oversized steering wheel puller. It's used to remove the flywheel after the nut is off. Some people wedge something in back of the flywheel and hammer it off, but IMO, that should be the absolute last resort.
4. Good torque wrench. The Power Plant Frame bolts need to go back on around 110-130 ft lbs. The flywheel nut goes back on at around 350 ft lbs. Thankfully I had a friend with a Torque Modifier.

Air tools can definitely help in the removal phase of first getting things off. I would also recommend ordering a new oil seal for the Pilot Bearing. The kits usually don't come with one and mine was torn up. It's a $2-3 part, so there really is no reason not to replace it. Some people also suggest replacing the flywheel nut since it's on there with so much force.

Other than that, you may as well drain the tranny so you don't make a mess and it's all wrench time. If you have access to a tranny jack, it will make the job SO much easier of getting the tranny out and back in.

If you don't have the correct tools, just take it to a shop and let them do it. Nothing is worse than removing a bunch of junk from the car just to find out you can't complete the job.

 

DOH!

That should have been "Torque Multiplier". sigh...

 

You don't really need a flywheel stop tools or the SST to get that nut off. A 2 1/8" 3/4 drive socket and impact wrench it comes right off. Putting it back is the same thing, it really can't be too tight. Avoids one of the worst parts of the whole job. I guarantee any shop that you take it to will get the nut off in this manner.

 

If you don't know what you are doing, don't even try it. Take it somewhere where they do know what they are doing and give them $400 for labor, plus parts. If you are going to keep your car stock, the stock clutch will be fine.

It took me about 6 hours without air tools, and I mostly know what I am doing.

Edit: use the Mazda factory parts.

 

I did it and had a blast, I think it is cool finding out new things about my car. I think if you dont know how to do, you better find out, but make sure you have a good level of knowledge or the ability to learn things really quick

 

All you have to do is take a pry bar, pry the flywheel up on one side, and then smack it on the other side with hammer or a dead blow. It should pop right off. This is how Bruce Turrentine showed to do it, and it worked great for me.

 

Just make sure if you remove the flywheel, that the woodruff key sits in the keyway properly. I found out the hard way it wasn't seated properly. Upon tightening the flywheel, I broke the key in pieces and ruined the rear main bearing on the engine. Had to pull the rear main gear off the engine to replace the bearing. Ouch!!!

 

Mine was on there a little tighter than that. Actually, we were trying to use an air gun on the Harmonic Puller and it wasn't doing anything. Myself and "ebb" (here on the forum) had to both pry on an extended torque wrench using the Harmonic Puller to get it off.

That's the nice things about the FD. Every car is different.

As for the flywheel tool, it's really only helpful when putting the flywheel nut back on (that is if you care about torquing to the correct specs).

 

My flywheel came off with a couple taps of a hammer on the flywheel surface (I was putting on a new one, so I didn't care about the surface).

 

However you choose to remove the flywheel remember to leave the flywheel nut on loosely so when that sucker pops free it can't fall on you.

 

Don't drop the flywheel on your foot.

 

Stock clutch is good for a relatively stock car 9the part has been upgraded over the years). I was lazy so I let my dealer put it on with a RB flywheel and new Mazda bearings (yes the Dealer, mine is kick-*** unlike many in CA). Been working perfectly for 3+ years of hard driving...