Coolant Bypass?/double Throttle Removal?
ALRIGHT FELLAS QUICK QUESTION,,,
FOR THE RECORD...YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST.(I'VE LEARNED SO MUCH)..ANYWAY, I WAS READING AN ARTICLE AND A RX7 USER HAD HIS "COOLANT BYPASS ON TB" AND HIS "DOUBLE THROTTLE HAS BEEN REMOVED"...DOES THIS MOD IMPROVE HP OR ENGINE LIFE?? AND CAN YOU BRIEFLY EXPLAIN WHAT EACH DOES?? ANY AND ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME.....
(-BIG NAPO)
FOR THE RECORD...YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST.(I'VE LEARNED SO MUCH)..ANYWAY, I WAS READING AN ARTICLE AND A RX7 USER HAD HIS "COOLANT BYPASS ON TB" AND HIS "DOUBLE THROTTLE HAS BEEN REMOVED"...DOES THIS MOD IMPROVE HP OR ENGINE LIFE?? AND CAN YOU BRIEFLY EXPLAIN WHAT EACH DOES?? ANY AND ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME.....
(-BIG NAPO)
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/
please check this site, ask question after
by the way, would you mind losing the caps lock?
puma
please check this site, ask question after

by the way, would you mind losing the caps lock?
puma
Brief Explanation, it monitors coolant temp with a wax pellet, and once proper coolant is attained it opens up the secondary ports in your thottle body, to allow you to go Full Speed.
With this removed, "you" need to be the secondary throttle plates by not boosting untill fully warm, which you shouldn't do anyhow. Mazda figures people are idiots, and don't read instructions, and other than what's common knowledge like: "Put Gas in" "Put Oil In" "Turn Key" people will just abuse things if there are no safeguards.
So In theory it does not hinder HP since it should act the same once it has opened.
In praxis, the pellet degrades the doors don't fully open, and even if they do they can cause a more turbulant intake tract for air....
Hope that helps.....
With this removed, "you" need to be the secondary throttle plates by not boosting untill fully warm, which you shouldn't do anyhow. Mazda figures people are idiots, and don't read instructions, and other than what's common knowledge like: "Put Gas in" "Put Oil In" "Turn Key" people will just abuse things if there are no safeguards.
So In theory it does not hinder HP since it should act the same once it has opened.
In praxis, the pellet degrades the doors don't fully open, and even if they do they can cause a more turbulant intake tract for air....
Hope that helps.....
I'm pretty sure you confused the two items, DCrosby. The wax pellet raises the idle by keeping the primary throttle open when the coolant is cold. When hot coolant softens the wax, the idle comes down, but that's not related to the double-throttle. The DT system does block excessive throttle and boost when cold, but the secondary throttles are controlled by the ECU via a vacuum solenoid.
Originally Posted by DCrosby
Brief Explanation, it monitors coolant temp with a wax pellet, and once proper coolant is attained it opens up the secondary ports in your thottle body, to allow you to go Full Speed.
With this removed, "you" need to be the secondary throttle plates by not boosting untill fully warm, which you shouldn't do anyhow. Mazda figures people are idiots, and don't read instructions, and other than what's common knowledge like: "Put Gas in" "Put Oil In" "Turn Key" people will just abuse things if there are no safeguards.
So In theory it does not hinder HP since it should act the same once it has opened.
In praxis, the pellet degrades the doors don't fully open, and even if they do they can cause a more turbulant intake tract for air....
Hope that helps.....
With this removed, "you" need to be the secondary throttle plates by not boosting untill fully warm, which you shouldn't do anyhow. Mazda figures people are idiots, and don't read instructions, and other than what's common knowledge like: "Put Gas in" "Put Oil In" "Turn Key" people will just abuse things if there are no safeguards.
So In theory it does not hinder HP since it should act the same once it has opened.
In praxis, the pellet degrades the doors don't fully open, and even if they do they can cause a more turbulant intake tract for air....
Hope that helps.....
Originally Posted by Eggie
I'm pretty sure you confused the two items, DCrosby. The wax pellet raises the idle by keeping the primary throttle open when the coolant is cold. When hot coolant softens the wax, the idle comes down, but that's not related to the double-throttle. The DT system does block excessive throttle and boost when cold, but the secondary throttles are controlled by the ECU via a vacuum solenoid.
this is coolant bypass


Originally Posted by DCrosby
Brief Explanation, it monitors coolant temp with a wax pellet, and once proper coolant is attained it opens up the secondary ports in your thottle body, to allow you to go Full Speed.


and this is double throttle





Originally Posted by DCrosby
With this removed, "you" need to be the secondary throttle plates by not boosting untill fully warm, which you shouldn't do anyhow. Mazda figures people are idiots, and don't read instructions, and other than what's common knowledge like: "Put Gas in" "Put Oil In" "Turn Key" people will just abuse things if there are no safeguards.
So In theory it does not hinder HP since it should act the same once it has opened.
In praxis, the pellet degrades the doors don't fully open, and even if they do they can cause a more turbulant intake tract for air....
Hope that helps......
So In theory it does not hinder HP since it should act the same once it has opened.
In praxis, the pellet degrades the doors don't fully open, and even if they do they can cause a more turbulant intake tract for air....
Hope that helps......





you guys kill me thats just the funnyest





sept if it the double throttle is removed unpluged what will happen to ? (ECU) error?
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right so this wax pellet degrades over time? could this cause a ***** idle when the car heats up? when my fd is cold it idles high as it should and is smooth, but when it warms up it idles rough and when revved it can sometimes stall. (please dont flame me if im on the wrong thread but i though the 2 might be connected.)
mods are: blitz filters, catback, samco silicone boost hoses, r-majik intercooler hardpipes. hks ssqv. silicone rad pipes and im in the middle of replacing the rats nest as i thought this might be part of the problem.
mods are: blitz filters, catback, samco silicone boost hoses, r-majik intercooler hardpipes. hks ssqv. silicone rad pipes and im in the middle of replacing the rats nest as i thought this might be part of the problem.
Originally Posted by efini82
[COLOR=Navy][B]right so this wax pellet degrades over time? could this cause a ***** idle when the car heats up? when my fd is cold it idles high as it should and is smooth, but when it warms up it idles rough and when revved it can sometimes stall. (please dont flame me if im on the wrong thread but i though the 2 might be connected.)
no if you remove the wax pellet it dosent rev to 3000 when warming up, all by its self.
and the other: double throttle blocks excessive throttle and boost when cold.
but if your stock it is controlled by your ecu and a solenoid.
so if your remove this you will have to control it.... the boost!!
Originally Posted by efini82
mods are: blitz filters, catback, samco silicone boost hoses, r-majik intercooler hardpipes. hks ssqv. silicone rad pipes and im in the middle of replacing the rats nest as i thought this might be part of the problem.
have you removed the double throttle plate?
Last edited by bryant; Dec 29, 2006 at 05:00 PM. Reason: trying to make it blue like in his qoute o-well.
Originally Posted by efini82
when my fd is cold it idles high as it should and is smooth, but when it warms up it idles rough and when revved it can sometimes stall.
Not a hot wax rod/cold start assist problem as it is purely mechanical opening of the primary butterfly valve in the throttle body. You have a hot idle problem. Since you are running a stock ecu ans almost stock engine, either a bad O2 sensor or poorly adjusted throttle body (TAS, AAS, or DASHPOT).
Removal of the vacuum operated double throttle unit might slightly reduce turbulance/resitance in the TB airflow which might slightly increase power.
Not needed on a close to stocker engine, but many high HP engines have this mod.
thanks for the most informative answer to my "why the hells my fd stalling when i rev it when its warm question?" in ages! change the o2/lambda sensor!
could it possibly so obvious!???
if the rats nest did have any sort of leak, could it possibly make the idle rubbish when warm or does that bunch of hoses only do boost control for the twins?
THANKS! i owe ya if it is the problem!
can you tell by lookin at the sensor if its busted?
could it possibly so obvious!???
if the rats nest did have any sort of leak, could it possibly make the idle rubbish when warm or does that bunch of hoses only do boost control for the twins?
THANKS! i owe ya if it is the problem!
can you tell by lookin at the sensor if its busted?
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