BigJim

So i still cant get that damn random beep from the coolant level sensor to quit so, i wanna cut the wire to the noisemaker. Anyone know where or how to go about it. ?

3rd Gen Jeremy

Cutting the line to the sensor won't work. That's why the alarm is going off.

You've got 1 of two problems:


a) the little plastic connector that is on the right side of the filler neck is probably corroded or gunked up. I cut the connector out of the loop and used a butt connector and my alarm went off.

b) If that doesn't fix it, you've probably got a broken sensor... it's on the front of the water filler neck.


I woulnd't disable the feature though. Just my .02

BigJim

yea i meant to cut the wire off of the actual buzzer itself not the sensor. Sensor checks fine, plastic connector by filler neck is clean. I have spent way to much time trying to figure it out and im sick of the noise. For now i figure ill get by with just the light comming on and off randomly

lowboost

My friend has this same problem, the problem is he cant find the wire, it broke off and we cant find it anywhere, so he unplugged the plug from the cluster or took a fuse out, now no gauges work and its quiet but is it worth it? LOL

I wish we could find it to help him out as he's frustrated with the car, its been nothing but trouble since he's got it.

crcleofdst

BigJim-

I would strongly suggest that you spend more time trying to find the cause of the problem. Since overheating frequently results in coolant seal failure, causing you to have to rebuild at a substantial cost, it is not a good idea to disable one of the warning systems. I understand that you will still have the light, but if you miss the light just once...... Well, you get the idea.

Its not fun having to go through "the 4 stages of coolant seal failure" (as coined by Adamc).


*edit*

I see someone stole the quote above my avatar!

3rd Gen Jeremy

Mine looked like that too... I thought it's gotta be fine. It wasn't. Try splicing another wire in the place of that connector and see what happens. Also... make sure your coolant is full (I know that's a dumb thing to say but I've done some dumb things myself).

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

The buzzer noise is your early warning to impending engine overheat. Grab a shop manual to help you through this repair and do it right. I don't think you get much help here in the form of disabling the CPU. But if you insist on going that route, then just cut the big fat red cable coming from that square box called a battery - that buzzer won't sound off any more.

later

BigJim

You guys have seen the immense number of threads with people that have the same problem. Outside of having the plug by the filler neck off there has been no fix for a single person. Ive tried alot, ill try running that wire but i donot think it will work. When it doesnt work i want to cut that wire. I check my fluids on a weekly basis, i constantly watch my guages, im not worried about an overheat. Im nearly positive i will catch it before anything goes wrong.

Oh yea, as for your ideas about the wires being bad or unplugged or whatever. Heres how this thing works:

First start of the day the buzzer will not come on at all. I can drive for hours and it wont come on. Turn the car off and then back on...10 seconds later 'beeeeeeeep'. It will beep for a random amount of time ranging from 5 to 50 minutes. There is no logic behind it, bumps have no effect, turns have no effect, playing with the wires has no effect.

Oh yea, badddrx7, dont be an *******. I didnt ask for your stupid *** remarks. Maybe im more intelligent than you and actually check my fluids on a regular basis and watch my guages almost constantly. Im smart enough to not overheat my car. And the buzzer is not an early warning to an overheat when my coolant level is fine. So suck my *****.

Thanks for everyone elses input, ill try running a wire tomorrow and see if it works.

Oh yea, anyone know where the actual buzzer that is going off is locateD? I just want to cut the wire to it, not disable the cpu or any systems, just cut out the damn buzzer

ps baddrx7 is still a dick

fd0

iTrader: (8)

What about soldering the wire to the sensor? That also works.

BigJim

All the wires have a fine connection thats the problem. Unless its something in my wiring harness i have no idea. So until i figure it out i just want the buzzing to stop.

crcleofdst

Theres no need to get upset, dude. He, as well as the rest of us are trying to tell you that disabling the buzzer is a bad idea that will probably result in your engine overheating. Obviously, if your buzzer is going off, you have a problem. If the sensor and harness are ok and connected, I would think that you have an issue with the cooling system. If you choose to ignore the signs, and disable the warning systems, your engine rebuild may end up costing you more. Its your car, and I'm not going to tell you how to take care of it, but I dont want to sit here and paint pretty pictures either. Especially considering that others may read this thread and end up doing the same thing thinking that it is an ok fix.

I do believe you that you check your fluids and gauges as much as you say, the only problem is it only takes one time for you to be in a hurry and miss something. This is precisely why this approach is such a bad idea. Take your time, and fix it properly. You will be a much happier RX-7 owner if you do.

*Edited*

DaveW

Except that, if I understand it correctly, it's not acting like yours. His coolant level is not the problem. He says it is always OK. It's just that the buzzer keeps going off for no reason.

Dave

crcleofdst

I think that it depends on where he is checking his coolant level. My overflow tank has always stayed at the full mark, however the level was below the sensor in the thermostat housing.

I do see your point though, and I guess I should say that I am not suggesting that he has a blown coolant seal.

*I have edited my previous post to avoid any confusion.*

DaveW

Good point - that was not stated, I "assumed" he was checking at the filler cap.

Dave

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

My 2 cents,

I went through a coolant seal failure when I bought my car (many eons ago). When it first started, the coolant buzzer would go on at random times then just stop for no reason. However, I drove it like that for many months before it became a real problem.

IMO, if you have something like that happening, you have an issue with the cooling system that needs to be looked at. If the coolant buzzer comes on as soon as the car starts and never goes off at all, then it is a problem with the sensor and/or the wiring in which case disabling the buzzer isn't that bad of any idea.

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Again ...fix the problem right and don't butcher up another FD. Like you said, you're smart Big Jim. Take some more time and figure it out, use the electrical drawings in the manual - the answer is there. You've only been working on this problem since you acquired the car back in April...the year is still young yet.

Later

BigJim

I plan on continuing working on the problem, just because i cut the buzzer doesnt mean im done working on it. I have tried so many things that have not worked so far that i really wonder if i will ever get it fixed. In the midst of all this trial and error im sick of the annoying beeeeep. I pretty much never let people ride in my car because i never know when its going to start.

As for checking the coolant, i check it right above the sensor . Always full, stand there with the car running, the coolant will rise and pour out eventually and no bubbles arise thus i dont think its seal failure. I think im going to try a new radiator cap, i doubt thats the problem but im running low on things to try. In the mean time i guess ill have to hunt down that buzzer.

Oh and as for the comment about me not getting mad. I didnt get mad at anyone else who offered up the exact same opinion as him. I got mad at him because he had to be a smartass.

car hugger

iTrader: (1)

There is a box in the drivers side footwell. Its known as the flasher box or CPU No2. I started having random little things go wrong with warning lights in the cluster, a blinking key light over the ignition, etc. The final straw was the seat belt warning buzzer that wouldn't stop after never working before.

CPU No 2 controls that buzzer. In the 94 body electrical manual.pdf go to section C2 Warning System.

chinaman

Sorry guys but I did not read all of the responses to this problem. As you all know, the sensor is crap from the beginning. I had this problem once and to solve the problem, I used a brass sensor that I took from my 88 Nissan 300Z. With luck, you can find one in the junk yard. Not sure how much they are from the dealer.

Brent Dalton

iTrader: (31)

Big Jim, 99% of the time I've messed around with the buzzer problem it is the connecter by the Power Steering/AC and spark plugs. It is a single black wire connector. Often times when you change the spark plugs it will knock it apart or loose. If you knock it loose, the buzzer will come on randomly... if you knock it apart completely the buzzer will obviously stay on all the time. Didn't see anyone mention this thus far, and it is overlooked alot. Just something to check.

silentblu

iTrader: (1)

any one figure out how to get rid of the buzzer? I have an aftermarket computer that makes my water gauge and add coolant light useless. I monitor temps elsewhere. The beep is annoying.

aaron1017

You can just ground the wire to fool the circuit that the coolant is always full...

EFS.O

There is another wire behind the power steering unit fluid tank.If its not connnected the buzzer goes off.If i remeber well it has a white connector.Its pretty hard to find it,check also near the bottom of the oil fllier neck.