OK THIS SUCKS ***!!!!! IM DRIVING AND OUT OF THE BLUE THE ADD COOLANT LIGHT COMES ON!!!!!! I WAS LIKE OMG, I GO HOME, LET THE CAR SIT FOR A LIL, CHECK IT, IT WAS A LIL EMPTY, SO I PUT SOME WATER TO TOPE OFF, PUT THE CAP!!! AND START THE CAR SO THAT IT MIXES AND BEGINS TO CIRCULATE. NO PROBLEM WHAT SO EVER UNTIL , JUST NOW , THE ****** BEEPS AGAIN, WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON???
YES I SEARCHED!!! I NEED MORE OPINIONS, PLEASE HELP!!!

 

probly a leak some were, and take caps off

 

Have you recently replaced the AST. I had the same problem until I got all the air pockets out of the system. The other idea is that you have a leak. As long as the leak is not the water seal for the engine, you should be able to fix it and be ok. If it is the water seal time to rebuild.

 

Thanx alot!!!!!!!! i appreciate it !!!!!!!!!!!!
Any other suggestions????????????

 

Caps need a changing....

 

I have the same prob. How can one accurately diagnose what's goin on? I'm scared that my water seals are goin.. 115K on original motor. leaks- would there be puddles on the ground?

its now Day 5 of owning my FD!

 

Just make sure on a cold start-up that white sweet smelling smoke doesn't come out of the exhaust. This would indicate a coolant seal failure.

Other than that keep toping it off until you find out the problem. Any other cause to the beeping will be insignificant compared to that.

Garrett

 

Pressure test the hoses by appling 20psi or 1.45kgf/cm^2 of pressure. Make sure that the pressure is held then check for leaks.

Also, do you have the stock radiator? I had the plastic ends on the radiator leak on me so I got an aluminum one. Hope this helps

 

jsut try to feel around and look to see if it is leaking somewhere. i did that until i found out it was my lower radiator hose leaking.

 

Good luck. I had the beep a month ago and my car began to smoke on startup for like 20 minutes of pure white sweet smelling smoke. So my motor is being rebuilt as we speak. Check all your lines to and from the AST, Coolant hoses, cracked radiator, caps, and check for rough starts. If the apex seals get wet then compression is tough to get so it will crank more than usual before it actually fires up. I hope it's ok. Day 5, that would suck big baboon *****.

 

on cold start up isnt there supose to be coolent injected into the rotor housings to de ice the rotors?

 

That system only existed on the 2gens. We don't have that, at least as far as the manual says...

 

I have the same problem and it is my radiator so you might want to invest in a fluidyne or a similar lighter radiator but also the ast needs to be changed no matter what those things suck that is what is next on my car after computer.

 

Most likely you are losing your seals. I would expect it with the high milage. If the car stumbles trying to start, or you get the classic white smoke at start up, your seals are shot. You can always pressure test the system. Or you can pull your plugs out and see if they are wet. Your car may start leaving puddles.

It doesn't take much for a coolant seal to go out believe it or not.



Here is a look at what my coolant seal looked like when I pulled apart my motor. This break is about 1/4" big. Not much but in coolant seal terms it was a canyon.

You can search around in here

Good luck

-Dave

 

Thanx alot guys!!! well this morning i checked again and the coolant was low, i didnt even bother filling it. I just left my car at home today, and probly tomorrow and the day after!!!! wow this sucks ***!!! lets say my motor is soon to be shot!!!! O yea i looked for any leaks, i didnt see anything, i checked for a puddle or dribble under the car, nothing, wow this really sucks asssssss!!! Everyone god bless and thanks soo much for the input!!! Any other things to check out????

 

Yes i do have a rough start up when i first start the car in the morning!!!! and the o so sweet smelling pure white smoke out my exhaust!!!! this really blows!!
If this is what i think it is and it prolly is, do i just buy a new motor and put it on or what, plus, how much will this run me in $$$$$$.????? Again everyone, Thank you all so much???? Happy Rotoring!!

 

Anymore suggestions???

 

The last I heard, a reman engine costs ~$2700, and then you'll have to add labor. I just get my bf to do it.
Maybe you can get your gf to do it.

 

My leak was kind of difficult to spot, only drops from the bottom until I jacked the front up and took the radiator cover off from the bottom and got a coolant shower

 

What areas should i be checking before i go and order a new motor and what not!!! Under the radiator, under the car, what are the for sure signs of a internal coolant leak???? Should i not drive the car and just drain all the motor oil, coolant, and so on just to be safe or what??? Im kinda in a sticky financial situation and I wanna be sure before i do anything drastic. Wow i hoping its nothing bad!!!

 

Again, thanx alot for all the help everyone.....please relply when u all get a chance!!!

 

You've already got the classical symptoms. If you want to be absolutely sure, take the car to a shop equipped with emissions sniffer, they can detect traces of exhaust particles in the coolant. As some one mentioned already, check your plugs for wetness also. Good luck.

 

You are indeed showing the classical symptoms of "o ring" failure. You can confirm this as follows.

After filling the radiator full.

1. Leave the cap off your filler tube
2. start the car and let it get to operating temp
3. look for tiny bubbles constantly forming in the coolant

If you have the trail of bubbles then you most likely have an "O Ring" failure and you will need to start saving up for a rebuild.

 

Everyone thanx alot for the info!!!!

 

Mark I would bet your that indeed your seals are failing. If your not seeing any puddles it could just be that the inner ring is failing. There is a inner and outter o-ring . It is more common for the outer to go bad. But either way they still leak your coolant. It is gonna be on the passanger side of the motor by the turbos. Thats where it gets the hottest.

A reman can go from $2200-$2500 dollars. They are just used engines that have been rebuilt by Mazda. Not all parts are replaced in them. If it makes specs then it is reused. I would almost suggest that you get a ported motor built by one of the better rotary builders around.

Try www.atkinsrotary.com
www.pineappleracing.com
www.pfsupercars.com
Thats what I can think of off the top of my head. There are a lot more out there.

Try to remeber that you now will have a fresh motor and this is something to be excited about..

Good luck .. feel free to pm me if you need something..