Ok. after searching and also looking at all the RX-7 Store's descriptions of "cold air" intakes I am still confused. And probably rightly so. First of all, for many of these systems, "cold" is not appropriate because they are drawing hot air from around the exhaust manifold. There are those that use heat shields and also block off stealing air from the SMIC. Racingbeat uses a duct system like stock but with better flow. M2 uses a box with K&N's sucking through new ducting/box. Finally, after readin Robinette's site, there is a recommendation to cut holes in the stock box because that supposedly improves "cold air" intake and is more than sufficient.

To me, it makes infinitely more sense to pull in true cold air from outside, so I am partial to getting a ramjet type of effect from the box/duct method. However, I might be inclined to get the open variety of intake if I could find a scoop that goes directly over the intake on the hood. I have seen (way too) funky hoods with a scoop over this area, but it had way too many holes and was too busy. And I am not a fan of the light cover scoop because this is not functional when the lights are up.

Any sugesstions or info on how you came to your conclusions would be greatly appreciated. BTW.....any real info on true RWH from these intakes?

 

I'm not sure, but do 3rd gens have the flash to pass lenses on the front(can't remember/visualize)? Anyway if you do you can go with the headlight scoop and cut some sort of hole in your lenses and put sume mesh behind them to stop the bugs. This will allow cold outside air in while headlight is up. If that doesn't work you can try to extend your intake tubes and make them go into the nose of the car either in front all the stock stuff or behind the FMIC. Hope this gives you some different ideas.

 

Here's a hood that you might want to look at:
carbon fiber

painted

 

I apologize about the size of the second...I did not realize it was so big

 

Just take a Dremel to your front bumper.

 

You can make a custom RAM/CAI using 2 K&N's($70.00) like Pettit's intake and make your own heat shield from a sheet of aluminum.

Then you can buy some flexible 3" ducting($10.00) from your local autoparts store run 2 ducts from the nose of the car(where the 2nd oil cooler duct is & just next to the fog light), and run it up to you intakes through the opening between your radiator and body/frame. Presto! Cold Air being forced toward your K&N's.

I wish I had access to my pics of my set up on this PC, or I'd send them to you.

 

who need's a hood??? take the whole thing off...roll like Hector...hahaha

 

Ok...

Heres my shot...I posted a pic of my ghetto intake a few weeks ago. It costed 10 bucks and you cant see it unless your looking for it. I removed the radiator ducting on the passenger side (the plastic wedge in the opening of the bumper nose). I took out the stock intake and cut a hole in the bottom. I got a thick hose from home depot. This hose is about 1/4 inch thick and has a 2.5 inch opening. Its a clear hose, the cost is about 5.75 per foot. You use about 1 foot, but you should buy about 1.5 feet. Then I got one of the metal tubes from homedepot..the ducting type tubes that you can twist (they are rivited on and moveable).

Anyway I know my description sucks. But in a nutshell I dropped a K & N in, put the hose in the bottom of the air box routed it between the radiator and the sub frame. (you have to remove that foamy stuff). I then attached the aluminum tubing to the vinyle tubing and the positioned it at the opening at the nose of the car.

I know this works for 2 reasons. My K & N gets rather dirty where the hose touches it and most importantly...I had a stock Airbox previously and I ran consistent 13.79's @ 104.8X on my 1/4 mile. I'm talking about 10 runs I did 4 times at the track consistently. Now when I go I consistently get 13.5 @ 107. with the identical 60' time. I have no doubt the difference is the air box.

Sorry if my explanation is not good.

 

rotary reliability and racing is making intakes that are a similar to a cross between the pettit intake, the m2 intake and the stock intake....saw em the other day and they look great and are very functional...MUCH cheaper than the m2 and the pettit as well.

250.00 bucks including filters...call them for more info...Ill have one on my car at sevenstock.

7148398018 rotary reliability and racing in santa ana ca.


j

btw...they look as good as the m2 setup as well...very professional and clean. cant wait to get mine.

 

artguy, post some pics when you get it. or send to me at spoolin7@midsouth.rr.com

sounds pretty interesting

 

hey artguy,
does rotary reliability and racing have a website where i can view the pics of the air intake? or possible to send some pics to me at worldrally@hotmail.com? Interested in that too. thx

 

If you think about it a cold air intake on a turbo car doesn't make much sense at all. As soon as the turbos start compressing air the temps are going to shoot way up no matter where the intake comes from.

 

There's some food for thought.....here we are worrying about "cold air" when that theory gets all shot to hell when the turbos come on. Interesting. Guess that is what the intercooler is for. Doh!

Anyway, so any HP gains are likely miniscule and the type of intake is probably moot. To me that means the following: Get nice K&N filters, some kind of heat shielding, and get as much of that plastic out of the engine bay as possible.

Does that sound like a good plan? Oh yeah, and forget spending a ton of money on this low HP mod...yes?

 

no they do not have a website.

 

People keep coming up with this argument. It is bullshit. How can you explain why the car makes more boost and power when it's colder outside? It's not just the lower ambient air making the intercooler more effective. It's also the lower intake air temps in the first place.

Artguy: please post more info regarding the R&R intake, including pictures. Please.

 

Ok.....then I SHOULD spend a lot of money on his mod and get the best because cold air is important as evidenced by better performance when it is cold.

Mmmm.

See why a book written by the gurus of 7 would be good?

 

i was gonna make some smartass comment about you being some 'new generation', know it all, rookie, and then saw the amount of posts that you have. seemed sorta impressive.....oh wait, do you still own that honda in your profile?

some people go to school for years and still don't know ****

http://www.rotaryracing.com/

(if you are legit, sorry. regardless, i'm just givin' you a hard time )

 

Couldnt agree more. I'm sick of this - "oh the IC will sort it out" bullshit. A turbo isn' t magical it takes air and applies a force to compress it. If the air is less dense (hotter) the outlet air wont be as compressed. Since boost is regulated by the wastegate and the flow rate of the IC a function of inlet temp the end result is the engine is getting less air at the same boost as an engine with CAI. If your IC is not perfect (eg stock) then you'll be getting hotter intake temps as well.

Pods in the engine bay with no ducting and stock IC is stupid. Pods with an aftermarket IC is a waste of a good IC. End of story.

-pete

 

I understand... for every 10 degree drop in temp. engine produces 1% more horse power...it all adds up......Carter

 

i think the ntech intake is the best but they dont make it any more

draws cold air and has the ram air effect while keeping the hot air from the motor from entering

adds 13 rwhp max

 

Ill post pics soon...should have the new intake on my car this week

j

 

I do not know if it was mentioned, But even if the compression of the air does shoot up temps, you can still compress more air molecules because the air is cooler, and the molecules in the air are much closer together. I do not know if the ram air makes much of a diffderence, but it seems like an ok idea.

 

I have the m2 intake with a hard pipe kit and it is a bad *** intake. Get it thats all i got to say