code 27 oil metering pump
#1
Big Daddy!!!
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code 27 oil metering pump
I picked up my car from the body shop today and went to the dealer to get a oil change. When I got there the check engine light came on, so I got him to scan for codes. He came back with code 27; oil metering pump. My question is will the oil metering pump effect the way the car runs? The reason why I ask is when the check engine light is off I can rev the car no problem, but as soon as the light comes on then I can't rev it past 3000rpm. When I rev it up it sputters and back fires. Also does the pump effect the amount of smoke the car puts out? What can cause this metering pump to go wrong? Is it just the plug or the pump itself? Any feedback would be great. Thanks.
R.K.
R.K.
#2
Do it right, do it once
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absolutely will effect the way the car runs, it'll run in limp home mode.
Make sure the big plug by the front engine lifting hook is plugged in. If so check the wiring that wraps down around the front of the engine. Sometimes it gets hung up on the belts/pullies.
Make sure the big plug by the front engine lifting hook is plugged in. If so check the wiring that wraps down around the front of the engine. Sometimes it gets hung up on the belts/pullies.
#4
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The same thing happened to me. Do a search for 'limp mode' and you find some more info. The car is pretty much undrivable in this condition, but it does it as a safety so you don't destroy your engine with no OMP.
My OMP was bad and I bought one off of a list member and replaced it. But check your wiring first.
My OMP was bad and I bought one off of a list member and replaced it. But check your wiring first.
#6
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Yep, as the others said, your car goes in "limp home" mode because the OMP injects oil to lubricate the apex seals. No oil, engine go boom.
Definitely check the wiring. If it's the pump, it can't be fixed, only replaced. Try to get a used one because I had mine replaced under warranty -- $1400 for the pump and 8 hours labor, for a total of over $2000 (to the warranty company).
Definitely check the wiring. If it's the pump, it can't be fixed, only replaced. Try to get a used one because I had mine replaced under warranty -- $1400 for the pump and 8 hours labor, for a total of over $2000 (to the warranty company).
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#8
A while back I encountered the infamous OMP, or MOP error code 27. And tracked it down to the actuall pump. I picked one up for $100, and the install would have been a peice of cake if I had not bustacated one of the oil lines at the oil injector.
Note: This is a close quarters job, requires a swivel, a good ratchet set, with a good selection of extenders.
WARNING: Be careful when tightening down the oil lines, you DONT want to break one.
Interesting note: There is no such thing as an error code 27, and limp home mode with the PFC, or PowerFC... meaning if the OMP a.k.a MOP goes you will never know.
If you have questions, PM me.
-M
Note: This is a close quarters job, requires a swivel, a good ratchet set, with a good selection of extenders.
WARNING: Be careful when tightening down the oil lines, you DONT want to break one.
Interesting note: There is no such thing as an error code 27, and limp home mode with the PFC, or PowerFC... meaning if the OMP a.k.a MOP goes you will never know.
If you have questions, PM me.
-M
#10
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kinda off subject, but I have two questions kind of dealing with this issue. #1 - On the block there are 2 oil pressure sensors (?) a small one directly screwed in to the end housing of the rear rotor, under and behind the oil filter mount (hope I am making sense) and then a bigger one directly under the filter with a rubber sleeve on it (gray color), Ok on the harness there is only one connector for this that I can see, my problem is - 2 sensors and one connector (btw-they both have the same connector "tip") Ok, can someone tell me where both of these "sensors" connectors are? Ok, question #2 - Can you do the diagnosis test yourself? What is required for this? Thanks and I hope I made sense
#11
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I will see what the dealer says tomorrow. The mechanic thinks that the plug is corroded or something and he will check that out. He will also test the metering pump as well. If I need a new omp, how much do you want for yours 93blackfd? Thanks.
R.K.
R.K.
#12
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I got some bad news from the mechanic today. It looks like the mop is stuck either in the open position or the closed position. He ran all of the tests to check the pump. He is leaning towards the mop being stuck open because its burning more oil than normal. Hopefully I will find a used one for a reasonable price. Wish me luck.
R.K.
R.K.
#13
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I think the first sensor you are talking about (the small one) is the temp sensor for the stock temp gauge. The large one under the oil filter is the oil pressure sending unit, which also drives the dash gauge. I can't remember where the plugs are though... I think the temp sensor plugs into the ECU harness, and the pressure sensor plugs into the driver's side harness.
Originally posted by xstacy7
kinda off subject, but I have two questions kind of dealing with this issue. #1 - On the block there are 2 oil pressure sensors (?) a small one directly screwed in to the end housing of the rear rotor, under and behind the oil filter mount (hope I am making sense) and then a bigger one directly under the filter with a rubber sleeve on it (gray color), Ok on the harness there is only one connector for this that I can see, my problem is - 2 sensors and one connector (btw-they both have the same connector "tip") Ok, can someone tell me where both of these "sensors" connectors are? Ok, question #2 - Can you do the diagnosis test yourself? What is required for this? Thanks and I hope I made sense
kinda off subject, but I have two questions kind of dealing with this issue. #1 - On the block there are 2 oil pressure sensors (?) a small one directly screwed in to the end housing of the rear rotor, under and behind the oil filter mount (hope I am making sense) and then a bigger one directly under the filter with a rubber sleeve on it (gray color), Ok on the harness there is only one connector for this that I can see, my problem is - 2 sensors and one connector (btw-they both have the same connector "tip") Ok, can someone tell me where both of these "sensors" connectors are? Ok, question #2 - Can you do the diagnosis test yourself? What is required for this? Thanks and I hope I made sense
#14
Looking for a used OMP. What is a reasonable price and where can I find one? Anyone in NJ willing to check wires/ replace my OMP for some bucks? (code 27 & limp mode) Can't afford mechanic labor and this is out of my league.
Thanks
graziano
rockygraziano@comcast.net
Thanks
graziano
rockygraziano@comcast.net
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