manatecu

iTrader: (6)

I hope someone can help me out with this problem I have been having. I have been getting repeated code 17's for the past 6 months. I have had three o2 sensors and they all have done the same thing. I reset the computer and the car will be good for one month or about 9 drives and then I get the Code 17 again. Anyone have any experience. The car is a 93 R-1.

Thanks
Chris

GsrSol

I don't know what the Feedback System is but it could always be a bad ecu.

wasabi

Code 17 does not necessarily mean that the O2 sensor is bad. The error occurs if the ECU does not see a change of the O2 sensor signal after 25 sec. in closed-loop mode. Check the the sensor signal at idle. If it is less than ~0.45 V the engine is running lean, and you may have an intake air leak or low fuel pressure. If the sensor reading is more than 0.45 V, it is most likely a fuel pressure regulator problem (pressure too HIGH), leaking injector(s) or an ignition problem.

-Mike P.

manatecu

iTrader: (6)

My tri-point A/F meter always reads rich at idle. My PFS PMS usually reads 85-92. I have been having a problem with the car cutting off in the past 6 months. Sometimes when the idle is acting choppy the car will cut off when I release the gas and press in the clutch, (Decelerating). It almost seems as through whatever picks up the idle isn't working because the RPM needle falls straight down and doesn't slow at 1.5K. Anybody got any ideas. All comments are welcome.

Thanks
Chris
Note: I do not have an airpump, erg, or avc.

7 eleven

my pfc reads 85 at idle

manatecu

iTrader: (6)

I forgot to tell everyone my engine is stock with 87K on it. The turbos are original and still stock. I still have the paper gasket on the lower intake. I always run 12 PSI with an AVC-r and I have no problems. I have noticed over the past few months the engine compartment has been getting louder, I think I have a crack in my exhaust manifold. I have purchased one from someone one the forum for a replacement and I got a new metal lower intake replacement. Should I look into the fuel regulator? Where exactly is the regulator located and where can I get a new one? Thanks for the help.

Chris

I was dynoed last month at 323hp at the rear wheels and the guy did comment about the loud manifold. He said it sounded like a crack was forming. It almost sounds like I have two exhausts. A baby one in the front and a power extreme out back. I don't remember, how quiet should the engine bay be?

Trexthe3rd

Holy $h!t, u got 323 rwhp on stock twins @12psi?? What mods do you have beside the fuel computer to get that kind of power output. The common consense is 320-330 is the max output on the stock setup @ 14.7 psi. Please enlighten me, I want to know what I am missing. Thanks

manatecu

iTrader: (6)

I am sorry I should have explained. The PFS PMS says the boost is running at 12, however the boost gauge is running at 14. The AVC-R is set at 13; however, it usually creeps to 14 when I am above 6K. In mods, if you can name it I probably have it. I can tell you the two mods that seemed to make the most difference was the lightweight flywheel and the HKS Twin Power. The Flywheel makes the rpms rise so much faster and the HKS improved everything but where it really shinned is after the second turbo comes on. In fact I get no drop off in power. Sometimes if I am not paying attention I hit the fuel cut off because I can not tell when the engine is slowing down.

That is all good but it is not my problem, the Code 17 is and I can't figure it out.

NOTE: The guy said his Dyno was good for +/-5hp/Torque

Chris