This solonoid senses that you have pushed in the clutch and allows the 7 to start.
I've had this problem before and replaced the clutch solonoid.
It starts out with clicking while your driving. It's located by your left knee. Right under the left side of the dash-mounted to the side.

I heard it today and wasn't too worried because it always starts. But then it started making too many clicks and sure enough after I tried to resart later, nothing. I had someone push start me.

But now I want to resolve this issue.
First what makes this solonoid go bad? Seems kind of strange to have two go out.

Second what if I bypass the solonoid? Not much chance of ME starting it in gear.
If that sounds good - how do I do it?

Thanks all

 

Didn't know where the relay was located, I will look into that. I do know that the little clutch switch that get depressed w/ the peddle often gives trouble. As far as bypassing, someone who has installed a remote start on thier 5spd should chime in.

 

I've already replaced the nylon insert that stops the plunger from going through (I think that's for the stock alarm). So it's not that.

This solonoid is behind the left kick panel. It's 2" x 2" or so, black with H302, DC12V20A, Imasen, 8J 22 and its attached to a blue connector with two large wires going into it and two very small wires going into it.

 

is it the one that's on the actual clutch pedal? should only have 2 wires to it IIRC. if that's the case to by pass it just cut the plug off and touch the 2 wires together. the clutch switch, if you replaced it could have be mis adjusted... it other words to far in.. and coulda hurt it when you been driving. always bottoming it out.


Carlos

 

Not a solenoid, but a switch on the pedal that closes the starter interlock. I have one for sale somewhere on the parts forum.

Tom

 

That switch that you're talking about is easy to test with a multimeter. If it's the one that rides against the clutch pedal itself. A simple ohm test will tell you if it's good or not. Mine is good.

I think that the problem is with the solonoid.
Looking for answers to the same questions from my original post.

 

From looking at the wiring diagram, I think you're talking about the starter cut relay. The starter cut relay is controlled by an ECU output, and closes the same circuit as the starter interlock switch. Check out page Z-24 in the wiring diagram to see what I mean.

If you're starter cut relay is making a clicking noise, it's either a problem with the relay itself (probably old age) or with the wiring that controls the relay (which is independant of the starter interlock switch, so rule that one out.) Personally, I'd go out and get a replacement relay and see if that solves the problem. Doesn't have to be an OEM part, any generic one should do as long as it's rated to the right current.

You *could* bypass the relay by joining the black/blue wire to the blue/white wire, but I would advise against this, as I don't know for certain the reason for having the relay there in the first place.

 

Missed this post before - you can easily replace the relay with a generic 12V20A relay as long as your confident patching the wires together, you'd probably have to ditch the connector. OR you could buy a direct replacement.

To bypass the relay, you would connect the two large wires together.

If you wanted to test the wires that control the relay, they are the two thinner wires. The black/light green should have 12V switched with ignition. The light green/red should be grounded by the ECU, but dont know under what circumstances that occurs.

Hope that helps champ.

 

Thanks Jeffrored92
The last time I bought the relay they broke it off in my ****!
I'm sure a generic one will be cheaper.

I live real close to Pettit (been with him for 12 years).
He told me to come by and he would give me a loaner to see if that resolves the issue.

It would be interesting to find out why you need the solonoid in the first place. I hate to bypass it and screw the pooch!

 

Anybody know of a store that carries a generic starter cut solonoid?
H302, DC12V20A, Imasen, 8J 22

 

No worries mate.

Any auto parts store should have a generic relay that will work. Just make sure it's rated 12V 20A.

I don't know if the harness connector is part of the relay. Either way, if you go for a generic one you'll need to wire it up. I'd suggest some insulated spade terminals would do the trick nicely.

 

you can repair those switches fairly easy. Usually what happens is the spring inside breaks. Just replace it with a spring from a ball-point pen.

To do this:

Take the solenoid out. bend the tabs on the one end that holds the casing together, and pull it apart. Make sure you get the entire spring out and see how long the spring would be if it were put back together. Find a pen that has a spring of comparable length and use it. Put it back together and you're done.

Joe

 

Good advice, I did this to mine when the spring went kaput. But he's talking about the starter cut relay, not the starter interlock (clutch) switch.

I'd try and avoid using the word solenoid in this context. While the starter cut relay uses a small solenoid to operate, I think most forum members associate the term solenoid with the solenoid valves used for turbo control etc. Best to stick to calling a relay a relay to avoid confusion.

 

NO!!! wiring harness are expensive and difficult to replace! to bypass the clutch starter interlock switch, uplug the switch from the harness using the connector plug that Mazda thoughtfully put in right at the switch. Then get a 6" long piece of 18 gauge wire and crimp to each end a male spade connector (1/4" i think). Then use the jumper wire you just made to jump across the terminals inside the connector plug on the car.

Mike