Clutch Solonoid-7 Won't Start
#1
Clutch Solonoid-7 Won't Start
This solonoid senses that you have pushed in the clutch and allows the 7 to start.
I've had this problem before and replaced the clutch solonoid.
It starts out with clicking while your driving. It's located by your left knee. Right under the left side of the dash-mounted to the side.
I heard it today and wasn't too worried because it always starts. But then it started making too many clicks and sure enough after I tried to resart later, nothing. I had someone push start me.
But now I want to resolve this issue.
First what makes this solonoid go bad? Seems kind of strange to have two go out.
Second what if I bypass the solonoid? Not much chance of ME starting it in gear.
If that sounds good - how do I do it?
Thanks all
I've had this problem before and replaced the clutch solonoid.
It starts out with clicking while your driving. It's located by your left knee. Right under the left side of the dash-mounted to the side.
I heard it today and wasn't too worried because it always starts. But then it started making too many clicks and sure enough after I tried to resart later, nothing. I had someone push start me.
But now I want to resolve this issue.
First what makes this solonoid go bad? Seems kind of strange to have two go out.
Second what if I bypass the solonoid? Not much chance of ME starting it in gear.
If that sounds good - how do I do it?
Thanks all
#3
I've already replaced the nylon insert that stops the plunger from going through (I think that's for the stock alarm). So it's not that.
This solonoid is behind the left kick panel. It's 2" x 2" or so, black with H302, DC12V20A, Imasen, 8J 22 and its attached to a blue connector with two large wires going into it and two very small wires going into it.
This solonoid is behind the left kick panel. It's 2" x 2" or so, black with H302, DC12V20A, Imasen, 8J 22 and its attached to a blue connector with two large wires going into it and two very small wires going into it.
#4
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is it the one that's on the actual clutch pedal? should only have 2 wires to it IIRC. if that's the case to by pass it just cut the plug off and touch the 2 wires together. the clutch switch, if you replaced it could have be mis adjusted... it other words to far in.. and coulda hurt it when you been driving. always bottoming it out.
Carlos
Carlos
#6
That switch that you're talking about is easy to test with a multimeter. If it's the one that rides against the clutch pedal itself. A simple ohm test will tell you if it's good or not. Mine is good.
I think that the problem is with the solonoid.
Looking for answers to the same questions from my original post.
I think that the problem is with the solonoid.
Looking for answers to the same questions from my original post.
#7
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Originally Posted by RX--7Seven
That switch that you're talking about is easy to test with a multimeter. If it's the one that rides against the clutch pedal itself. A simple ohm test will tell you if it's good or not. Mine is good.
I think that the problem is with the solonoid.
Looking for answers to the same questions from my original post.
I think that the problem is with the solonoid.
Looking for answers to the same questions from my original post.
If you're starter cut relay is making a clicking noise, it's either a problem with the relay itself (probably old age) or with the wiring that controls the relay (which is independant of the starter interlock switch, so rule that one out.) Personally, I'd go out and get a replacement relay and see if that solves the problem. Doesn't have to be an OEM part, any generic one should do as long as it's rated to the right current.
You *could* bypass the relay by joining the black/blue wire to the blue/white wire, but I would advise against this, as I don't know for certain the reason for having the relay there in the first place.
Last edited by jeffrored92; 12-12-05 at 11:50 PM.
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#8
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Originally Posted by RX--7Seven
I've already replaced the nylon insert that stops the plunger from going through (I think that's for the stock alarm). So it's not that.
This solonoid is behind the left kick panel. It's 2" x 2" or so, black with H302, DC12V20A, Imasen, 8J 22 and its attached to a blue connector with two large wires going into it and two very small wires going into it.
This solonoid is behind the left kick panel. It's 2" x 2" or so, black with H302, DC12V20A, Imasen, 8J 22 and its attached to a blue connector with two large wires going into it and two very small wires going into it.
To bypass the relay, you would connect the two large wires together.
If you wanted to test the wires that control the relay, they are the two thinner wires. The black/light green should have 12V switched with ignition. The light green/red should be grounded by the ECU, but dont know under what circumstances that occurs.
Hope that helps champ.
#9
Thanks Jeffrored92
The last time I bought the relay they broke it off in my ****!
I'm sure a generic one will be cheaper.
I live real close to Pettit (been with him for 12 years).
He told me to come by and he would give me a loaner to see if that resolves the issue.
It would be interesting to find out why you need the solonoid in the first place. I hate to bypass it and screw the pooch!
The last time I bought the relay they broke it off in my ****!
I'm sure a generic one will be cheaper.
I live real close to Pettit (been with him for 12 years).
He told me to come by and he would give me a loaner to see if that resolves the issue.
It would be interesting to find out why you need the solonoid in the first place. I hate to bypass it and screw the pooch!
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Originally Posted by RX--7Seven
Anybody know of a store that carries a generic starter cut solonoid?
H302, DC12V20A, Imasen, 8J 22
H302, DC12V20A, Imasen, 8J 22
Any auto parts store should have a generic relay that will work. Just make sure it's rated 12V 20A.
I don't know if the harness connector is part of the relay. Either way, if you go for a generic one you'll need to wire it up. I'd suggest some insulated spade terminals would do the trick nicely.
#12
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you can repair those switches fairly easy. Usually what happens is the spring inside breaks. Just replace it with a spring from a ball-point pen.
To do this:
Take the solenoid out. bend the tabs on the one end that holds the casing together, and pull it apart. Make sure you get the entire spring out and see how long the spring would be if it were put back together. Find a pen that has a spring of comparable length and use it. Put it back together and you're done.
Joe
To do this:
Take the solenoid out. bend the tabs on the one end that holds the casing together, and pull it apart. Make sure you get the entire spring out and see how long the spring would be if it were put back together. Find a pen that has a spring of comparable length and use it. Put it back together and you're done.
Joe
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Originally Posted by quicksilver_rx7
you can repair those switches fairly easy. Usually what happens is the spring inside breaks. Just replace it with a spring from a ball-point pen.
To do this:
Take the solenoid out. bend the tabs on the one end that holds the casing together, and pull it apart. Make sure you get the entire spring out and see how long the spring would be if it were put back together. Find a pen that has a spring of comparable length and use it. Put it back together and you're done.
Joe
To do this:
Take the solenoid out. bend the tabs on the one end that holds the casing together, and pull it apart. Make sure you get the entire spring out and see how long the spring would be if it were put back together. Find a pen that has a spring of comparable length and use it. Put it back together and you're done.
Joe
I'd try and avoid using the word solenoid in this context. While the starter cut relay uses a small solenoid to operate, I think most forum members associate the term solenoid with the solenoid valves used for turbo control etc. Best to stick to calling a relay a relay to avoid confusion.
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Originally Posted by Nat6c
is it the one that's on the actual clutch pedal? should only have 2 wires to it IIRC. if that's the case to by pass it just cut the plug off and touch the 2 wires together. the clutch switch, if you replaced it could have be mis adjusted... it other words to far in.. and coulda hurt it when you been driving. always bottoming it out.
Carlos
Carlos
Mike
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