clutch removal
Two long flat screwdriver from underneath, thru the inspection port. Hold ring inward and Pry outward on fork and - POP - it releases. The trick to this is to have a buddy on one screwdriver and place them on either side of the release bearing while prying.
Tom
Tom
Last edited by badddrx7; Nov 5, 2006 at 05:33 PM.
lol wait you can release the clutch without unbolting it from the flywheel? pineapple racing told me just unbolt it from the flywheel. si i pulled off the inspection plate shoved a screwdriver in the flywheel to hold it and took out the bolts one by one, turning the flywheel by putting a socket on the e shaft front nut and turning it untill the next bolt came into view threw the inspection plate
Unbolting it from the flywheel is one way of doing it but I think its a pain in the ***. Releasing the collar is a whole lot easier and takes less than a minute. You need to remove the slave cylinder (2 bolts), inspection place (2 bolts) and get a long flat screwdriver. Move the clutch fork so the collar sits flush with the pressure plate and stick the screwdriver between the top of the collar and the clutch fork. Rotate the screwdriver and the clutch fork should back off while the collar stays put on the pressure plate.
It sounds tricky but its very easy to do. Its a little too easy which makes you question yourslef if you actually did it right.
It sounds tricky but its very easy to do. Its a little too easy which makes you question yourslef if you actually did it right.
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The only reason I unbolted my clutch from my flywheel was because I could not get the wedge ring to slide back into the pressure plate. It wouldn't budge for me, so rather than waste too much time, I unbolted the clutch...
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,243
Likes: 42
From: Kennewick, Washington
What if you are in my situation:
Motor will NOT rotate. so I can't do the tedious bolt method. I need to separate the transmission and engine. However, I have not removed the inspection plates yet to see if I got lucky enough for anything to be lined up properly for me to just pop the collar.
Motor will NOT rotate. so I can't do the tedious bolt method. I need to separate the transmission and engine. However, I have not removed the inspection plates yet to see if I got lucky enough for anything to be lined up properly for me to just pop the collar.
wait, what froze up on it? you should be able to get a breaker bar on that bolt on the eshaft (center of main pully) and a cheater bar and force that thing to turn somehow just make sure the tranny is in neutral
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,243
Likes: 42
From: Kennewick, Washington
No worries. I have a brand new engine waiting to go in. just have to fund all the other goodies I want to put in with it. 
Won't be doing much for power yet. more focused on restoring reliability and making the little things like new. ie wire harness, injectors, all water hoses, etc. etc. Nickel and dimed to death.
Oh, and suspension. My favorite part of the FD, but this stuff gets expensive real fast. I guess I'll have to tinker for a while and figure out how to separate the two.

Won't be doing much for power yet. more focused on restoring reliability and making the little things like new. ie wire harness, injectors, all water hoses, etc. etc. Nickel and dimed to death.
Oh, and suspension. My favorite part of the FD, but this stuff gets expensive real fast. I guess I'll have to tinker for a while and figure out how to separate the two.
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