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Clutch Problem (Searched)

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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 10:57 AM
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Clutch Problem (Searched)

Last weekend after driving my car I parked it and there were no apparent problems.

When I went to go drive it again, the clutch felt spungy when I pushed it in, now it won't engage until it is completely pushed to the floor and disengages within about an inch of letting it out. The clutch only has about 500-1000miles on it. Its an ACT 6 Puck Sprung Hub.

The only thing I can think is that that throwout/release bearing is somehow shot, but before I go ordering a new on I wanted to get some more input.

Oh forgot to mention when the engine is on and the clutch is engaged/depressed there is a strange whining noise that wasn't there before.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm gonna get it up in the air tomorrow and have a look, but thought if someone could identify the problem early it would save me some trouble. Thanks
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 03:31 PM
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any thoughts..... any one
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 03:36 PM
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You have cracked one prong of your clutch fork. You can verify this by jacking up the car and watching through the transmission inspection plate on the bellhousing. Its hard to see - I looked at mine twice and didnt see it.

This typically happens about 1000 miles after putting in a new upgraded clutch if the fork wasnt replaced.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 03:38 PM
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The noise is either the throw out bearing or the pilot bearing. Your pedal issue is more than likely a hydrolic problem. If you take off the inspection panel on the bottom of the transmission have someone pump the pedal and see if the disc is fully disengauged.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 03:50 PM
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A lot of people have problems after upgrading to a heavier pressure plate with the master cylinder going out. Might want to look into it..

Chris
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 08:23 PM
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I was under the car while he was pressing the pedal and it was fully disengaging, so I don't think it's the master cylinder or slave cylinder. I was also looking for some kind of malfunction with the clutch fork and I didn't see anything, but it's still very possible. I'll have to look when we take it out. We'll also take a look at the bearings. Thanks guys.
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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Ok, I'm in the right thread. I have almost exactly the same issue going on with my 90 Vert. Replaced the clutch with a stock type unit no more than 10k miles back when the transmission was replaced. Decided to go ahead and replace the clutch. Anyway, there is almost no pressure on the clutch pedal until the last couple inches of travel and then it engages. Sometimes I can get it into gear. Other times I can't. Mostlly can manage it when it is moving. Reverse is really hard to engage. No loss of clutch fluid and no visible hydraulic leaks. So who knows.

Good thread and sorry to the originator of it... not trying to hijack the thread. Just sounds very similiar.
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 02:08 PM
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Search for clutch fork

They like to break shortly after installing a new clutch with a stiffer pressure plate.

Actually, the clutch fork breaks pretty often due to a poor design. Search and you'll see for yourself.
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 03:30 PM
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clutch

Originally Posted by NC_FC3S
Ok, I'm in the right thread. I have almost exactly the same issue going on with my 90 Vert. Replaced the clutch with a stock type unit no more than 10k miles back when the transmission was replaced. Decided to go ahead and replace the clutch. Anyway, there is almost no pressure on the clutch pedal until the last couple inches of travel and then it engages. Sometimes I can get it into gear. Other times I can't. Mostlly can manage it when it is moving. Reverse is really hard to engage. No loss of clutch fluid and no visible hydraulic leaks. So who knows.

Good thread and sorry to the originator of it... not trying to hijack the thread. Just sounds very similiar.
I had a problem like yours, it was the master cylinder push rod that needed adjusting at the clutch pedal,tweeked it n it was fine,lots of peeps forget about this when fitting a new or uprated clutch.
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 07:55 PM
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Well got mine back up without having to fix or replace anything. Turns out the shaft and throwout bearing, and springs just needed some good lubrication. But to find that out I had to pull everything out
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 08:40 PM
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I forgot to update this. We took the tranny back out Sunday and all we found was that the tranny shaft had old, dry grease and it wouldn't allow the throwout bearing to move freely. The inside of the bearing was just a tad off kilter from the rest of it...let me explain...I held the part that holds the pressure plate and spun the rest and it wobbled but it was only a very little bit. We greased the tranny shaft, put a little more grease in with the roller bearing and reinstalled. He said it already felt good before we even bled the slave cylinder (we didn't remove the line from the slave cylinder so there was no reason to bleed it other than to see if that was another problem).

My clutch pedal engages right off the floor too, but I can ALWAYS shift so it's not a problem. I'm pretty much the only person that can drive my car though haha. Everyone else has a problem with it at first. I've bled the fluid, adjusted the master cylinder linkage and everything...nothing. So I'm making it work.

Good luck with your clutch NC FC3S...and no worries about the thread-jacking, I'm sure OP doesn't mind haha. He's not an ******* like that.

Damn Simon, I didn't realize you were posting here too haha.

And you should probably remove the "NX dual purge" from your sig, HAHA.
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