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Clutch job tricky on these cars?

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Old 12-08-08, 01:19 PM
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Clutch job tricky on these cars?

My stock clutch just went out on me, and my father has a guy that does work on various cars he has, including the Rig he drives for work.

I know he does good work, and it would be a LOT cheaper than taking it to an rx shop.

I was just curious if replacing the clutch& flywheel is is something that should be left up to an rx7 specific mechanic, or if its safe for a 'regular' one to do..

Any input appreciated, thanks!
Old 12-08-08, 01:21 PM
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It's safe for a regular mechanic to do.
Old 12-08-08, 02:31 PM
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It's very easy to do yourself once you know how to get the throwout bearing disconnected. If you can't figure that out, just remove the inspection panel and take the pressure plate bolts off one by one.

Just un bolt everything (remember where it goes), have a friend help you lift it out.. and follow all the torque specs when putting the new one on.

It's a bit of work, but with a full day you can get it done. Either way, very doable with a good set of tools (spanners, extensions, sockets, impact and torque wrench... don't forget that red loctite)
Old 12-08-08, 02:45 PM
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Read up on the release collar. Ford F-150 lug wrench works perfect for this.
Old 12-08-08, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 00SPEC
.......I was just curious if replacing the clutch& flywheel is is something that should be left up to an rx7 specific mechanic, or if its safe for a 'regular' one to do..
The FD has a "pull-type" clutch. Other than that, if you've ever changed a clutch in any other car, there is nothing particularly difficult. Consult the FSM for the steps and maybe take a look at this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4RpGQCU regarding releasing the clutch. Then you decide.
The only other thing I can think of that probably isn't covered is using a piece of wood to brace the front of the engine to keep the rear of the motor from tilting up when the weight of the transmission is gone.
A search for other parts typically replaced during the job might be good too.
Old 12-08-08, 02:50 PM
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Replace your throw out bearing, and look into getting the updated shift fork.
Old 12-08-08, 05:24 PM
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First time I did it I had to do the job 3 times before I figured out my problem was the new release collar was bad. It looked perfect but just wouldn't hold. So that sucked but there isn't really anything particular different from any other clutch job.
Old 12-08-08, 05:59 PM
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EXTREMELY easy....if you have done your research, are mechanically skilled, have experience with clutch installs, possess the proper tools, and have a shop manual.

If you have these traits, then go to work.... If not then don't come back whinning that you cannot get the pilot bearing out, cannot remove the transmission, cannot install the transmission, etc, etc, etc,...



Later
Old 12-08-08, 07:29 PM
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i do not have said traits or a wide selection of tools--this is my first manual car and first time ive needed to replace a clutch

ive ordered the clutch, flywheel and counterweight already--from what yall are telling me, i should go ahead and replace the throw out bearing as well, yes? factory mazda?

ill look into the updated shift fork as well


otherwise it seems as though its safe for my guy to do, i just didnt want there to be another fd pandora phenomenon while getting it done
Old 12-08-08, 07:39 PM
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You'd probably be better off letting someone else do it then. If this mechanic friend of your Dad's is trusted and experienced, then he can probably do it. Again, the only thing that's significantly different from any other RWD import is the 'pull-type' clutch. Download the FSM, print out the appropriate pages and let your mechanic friend view the video I linked to.
And yes, new throw-out bearing is recommended, along with new rear transmission seal, a clutch fork (especially if your upgrading the clutch) and if you really want to go first class, a pilot bearing and pilot-bearing seal. Also a good time to consider a good synthetic gear oil change in the transmission too.
Old 12-08-08, 07:48 PM
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