Is the clutch adjustable (Cable or hydrolic)?
#1
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Is the clutch adjustable (Cable or hydrolic)?
My clutch pedal is way harder than my Honda which uses a cable. I have no idea if the RX-7's clutch is hydrolic or not. Does anyone know if it can be adjusted, and if so how?
Last edited by GoRacer; 10-11-02 at 05:33 PM.
#5
Here a bump, there a bump, you can adjust pedal height (friction point) at the pedal, but the force required is determined by your pressure plate (not adjustable unless you consider swapping pressure plates an adjustment). Everywhere a bump, bump.
-Max
-Max
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Speed Mach Go Go Go
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Thanks for the replys (and finishing my rhyme). You guys
So I take it that i've burned out my clutch but it just hasn't completely snapped or whatever the term would be on hydrolic. I think it takes way too much force for hydrolic cause when I test drove an Acura it didn't take any effort at all.
Damn, now a clutch too ...woe's me, boo hoo hoo!
So I take it that i've burned out my clutch but it just hasn't completely snapped or whatever the term would be on hydrolic. I think it takes way too much force for hydrolic cause when I test drove an Acura it didn't take any effort at all.
Damn, now a clutch too ...woe's me, boo hoo hoo!
#7
Has it changed or is it just harder than those cars with half the HP? If the stiffness changed, you might have a problem with the release arm. They have been known to break on some cars, but I am not really sure about what the pre-breakage symtoms are, or if there are any. I think when it really lets go, you just can't disengage the clutch (pedal has little or no effect).
The sitffness of the pedal is related to how much torque the clutch will hold, so you are going to have a stiffer clutch than a car that doesn't need as much holding power. The Centerforce clutch has very reasonable pedal effort if you need an upgraded replacement. The stock clutch isn't bad if you don't plan on pumping the power up a lot.
-Max
The sitffness of the pedal is related to how much torque the clutch will hold, so you are going to have a stiffer clutch than a car that doesn't need as much holding power. The Centerforce clutch has very reasonable pedal effort if you need an upgraded replacement. The stock clutch isn't bad if you don't plan on pumping the power up a lot.
-Max
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#8
sold the FD...kept the FB
I've broken two clutch forks. No symptoms i could detect.
Goracer, you might try replacing the hose from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder if you have'nt already. Even a fluid change and bleeding of the slave cylinder might help.
One way to avoid breaking the clutch fork is to not sit with the car in gear with the clutch engaged for a long time. I just bought a new clutch master today, as mine has gone bad. While I'm in there I'm gonna go with the 929 brake master conversion which reminds me...
Max, at SS5 we spoke about how you did the conversion...I'm thinking about just using some braided SS line instead of trying to make new hard lines to conect to that distribution block. What do you think?
Goracer, you might try replacing the hose from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder if you have'nt already. Even a fluid change and bleeding of the slave cylinder might help.
One way to avoid breaking the clutch fork is to not sit with the car in gear with the clutch engaged for a long time. I just bought a new clutch master today, as mine has gone bad. While I'm in there I'm gonna go with the 929 brake master conversion which reminds me...
Max, at SS5 we spoke about how you did the conversion...I'm thinking about just using some braided SS line instead of trying to make new hard lines to conect to that distribution block. What do you think?
#9
sold the FD...kept the FB
Goracer,
heres a link to that hose i was talking about...its towards the bottom:
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalog.cgi?cat=2&part=1
heres a link to that hose i was talking about...its towards the bottom:
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalog.cgi?cat=2&part=1
#10
I remember; it's good to put the face with a forum name!
Hardlines are better since you don't need the flexibility. You'd have to get a bunch of adapters and probably flare some brake lines anyway to connect them. I used the Rob Robinette instructions (including "how to double flare brake lines") and it wasn't too difficult. Brake line is cheap and you can do some practice ones first. I used a double flaring tool from the local auto parts store (Kragen, I think -- Pep Boys if not). It wasn't working very well until I added a C-clamp to the middle. The lines kept slipping without the clamp. Pep boys has brake lines with the right flare nuts, but you really don't need extra ones anyway. Just cut the ones off the stock lines. You will need to re-use one of the banjo fittings from the stock cylinder, but my master cylinder came with new copper washers.
K2RD.com has an SS line for the clutch.
You can rebuild the clutch master cylinder with a kit from Mazda (cheap). It is pretty easy to do. There was no rebuild kit available for the slave from Mazda, but a reman or new (don't remember which) cylinder was cheap. It had a different bleeder screw than the stock one, so I couldn't reuse my Speedbleeder, but I have switched to a Power Bleeder from MotiveProducts.com and I like it better anyway.
Okay, I'll shut up now. Those are my experiences with the hydraulic stuff.
-Max
Hardlines are better since you don't need the flexibility. You'd have to get a bunch of adapters and probably flare some brake lines anyway to connect them. I used the Rob Robinette instructions (including "how to double flare brake lines") and it wasn't too difficult. Brake line is cheap and you can do some practice ones first. I used a double flaring tool from the local auto parts store (Kragen, I think -- Pep Boys if not). It wasn't working very well until I added a C-clamp to the middle. The lines kept slipping without the clamp. Pep boys has brake lines with the right flare nuts, but you really don't need extra ones anyway. Just cut the ones off the stock lines. You will need to re-use one of the banjo fittings from the stock cylinder, but my master cylinder came with new copper washers.
K2RD.com has an SS line for the clutch.
You can rebuild the clutch master cylinder with a kit from Mazda (cheap). It is pretty easy to do. There was no rebuild kit available for the slave from Mazda, but a reman or new (don't remember which) cylinder was cheap. It had a different bleeder screw than the stock one, so I couldn't reuse my Speedbleeder, but I have switched to a Power Bleeder from MotiveProducts.com and I like it better anyway.
Okay, I'll shut up now. Those are my experiences with the hydraulic stuff.
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; 10-12-02 at 02:40 AM.
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