Clunck after changing brakes
#1
Rotary for life!
Thread Starter
Clunck after changing brakes
Hi all,
I recently changed my front pads to a set of Forza FR6 (racing pads) but i'm now getting a cluck everytime I hit the brake pedal. It does sound like the pad hitting the rotor.
I've changed brake pads many many times and never had an issue so i'm wondering if this is happening due to the type of pads as I usually run basic pads.
Here is a quick video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRvQ...ature=youtu.be
I've gone over both calipers, everything is intact and tight.
Any help is appreciated.
I recently changed my front pads to a set of Forza FR6 (racing pads) but i'm now getting a cluck everytime I hit the brake pedal. It does sound like the pad hitting the rotor.
I've changed brake pads many many times and never had an issue so i'm wondering if this is happening due to the type of pads as I usually run basic pads.
Here is a quick video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRvQ...ature=youtu.be
I've gone over both calipers, everything is intact and tight.
Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by rexhvn; 03-31-20 at 12:31 AM.
#2
Racecar - Formula 2000
No actual data here, but it sounds to me like the pad backing plates may be marginally smaller than the OE ones. That would allow the pads to move in the direction of rotor rotation when the brakes are applied. When the ends of the pad backing plates then hit the caliper, it makes a clunk.
Last edited by DaveW; 03-31-20 at 08:14 AM.
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fendamonky (04-01-20)
#3
F'n Newbie...
iTrader: (6)
I agree with Dave. I'd like to add that, unless you're actually on the track, "racing" brake pads are probably unnecessary if not detrimental.
Keep in mind that though pads like that being designed to operate at much higher temperature ranges might sound like a good thing, it also means that they won't work as well at cooler street temperatures.
Honestly you're better off putting your basic street pads back in, then only putting those "racing" pads in if you're actually pushing it at the track.
Keep in mind that though pads like that being designed to operate at much higher temperature ranges might sound like a good thing, it also means that they won't work as well at cooler street temperatures.
Honestly you're better off putting your basic street pads back in, then only putting those "racing" pads in if you're actually pushing it at the track.
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DaveW (04-01-20)
#4
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
I really can't tell what noise you're hearing or what it's coming from in your video.
That said, using pads made for racing is generally not a good idea for a street driven car. Race pad friction materials are optimized for the high temperatures that the pads would experience on a race track - i.e. lots of repeated braking from very high speed. Pads optimized for those conditions won't get hot enough to work well under street driving conditions, and usually perform WORSE than regular OEM/aftermarket street pad compounds. In addition, race pads will usually be noisier (squeal like crazy when cold), and dump much more brake dust on your clean wheels when street driven.
That said, using pads made for racing is generally not a good idea for a street driven car. Race pad friction materials are optimized for the high temperatures that the pads would experience on a race track - i.e. lots of repeated braking from very high speed. Pads optimized for those conditions won't get hot enough to work well under street driving conditions, and usually perform WORSE than regular OEM/aftermarket street pad compounds. In addition, race pads will usually be noisier (squeal like crazy when cold), and dump much more brake dust on your clean wheels when street driven.
The following 2 users liked this post by Pete_89T2:
DaveW (04-01-20),
fendamonky (04-01-20)
#5
Racecar - Formula 2000
After listening to the video again, the clunk could also be a result of very aggressive (very high CF initial bite) pads that could cause the somewhat muffled clunk (hard to hear) in the video when the brakes are first applied.
Last edited by DaveW; 04-01-20 at 04:38 PM.
#6
Rotary Freak
$500 fine in the mail sir!
Not likely to be backing plates hitting the calipers, if it's stock brakes, unless the retaining pins are worn out or the locating holes are oversize I would think.
For the US contingent and familiarity, FR6 is supposedly around DS3000, XR1/2 coefficient and higher than DTC70.....I'd be most concerned about eating rotors.
Not likely to be backing plates hitting the calipers, if it's stock brakes, unless the retaining pins are worn out or the locating holes are oversize I would think.
For the US contingent and familiarity, FR6 is supposedly around DS3000, XR1/2 coefficient and higher than DTC70.....I'd be most concerned about eating rotors.
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