Northern7

iTrader: (1)

OK here it goes. I don't have time to search as my dyno day with Steve Kan is June 3Rd.

Sometime I don't know the correct terms for the car so bare with me as I try to explain what is going on.

After clutch install my car would not start. Just A click. So we went through the prosses of elimination.

Checked the battery - OK ( added a jumper pack plugged into the wall outlet
Changed starter with known working starter - Old starter was very hot.
Removed both service panels on tranny - noticed that the release collar ( Ithink thats the term) was not pulled back to the clutch itself.

Worked on the clutch fork as per forum instructions, but never really heard any "click" However the collar does seam to be in place.

Try to start the car.

Motor turn for 1 second and clutch seam to relase. Through the service hole I can clearly see the flywheel is seperate from the the disk (part with the material on it)
The throw out bearing has seemed to moved. The clutch not looks nothing like it previuosly did.

This is where the fun starts.

We decided to finish bleeding the clutch lines when fluid started to poor out of the bellhousing. The little plunger had come off(sorry can't think of the word)

I guess some of my questions are - What would make the Clutch assembly stick together like that?

If I assemble the everything tomorrow shoulded the car turn over?

Any info will help, I will be able to explain better as input is given.

Thanks,

CantGoStraight

Brad,
Without being there it sound like the slave cylinder rod wasn't all the way in the trow out bearing arm and it (the rod) pushed out of the slave cylinder completely (the pouring of brake fluid from the bell housing. Take your slave cylinder back out and make sure everything is there, if not rebuild the slave cyilinder (put it back together) and when you place the slave cylinder back into the bell housing make sure the ball end of the rod goes into the throw out bearing fork, you also need to make sure the throw out bearing is engaged into the pressure plate retaing ring. While you have the slave cylinder out look into the housing and pull the throw out bearing fork towards the front of the car then push it towards the rear of the car and check to see that the retaining ring has engaged the throw out bearing. Once the slave cylinder is back in just bleed the clutch system. Release the bleed screw slowly as when you build up pressure the pressure plate will push brake fluid back very quickly. Hope something of this will help you, Jack

Northern7

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Jack. What would cause the car not to turn over is my real concern.

The fork was VERY difficult to move back and forth and required heavy force to move manually. It is a brand new piece.

It is very likely that this is a minor problem for most of you, Im I the only one this has happened to? It is kinda scary when your not that familiar with these cars. By the way this was my first clutch job.

I would hate to have to drop the tranny at this stage for a clutch problem. Everything was purchased brand new. ACT clutch and flywheel. the rest OEM mazda parts.

Can somebody ease my mind!

CantGoStraight

The movement should be fairly minimal once the throwout bearing is locked into the retaining ring. The clutch aside, if the transmission was in neautral and the clutch pedal pushed all the way down I don't understand why the engine wouldn't turn over as well. The only other thing that would cause the engine not to release from the transmission when the clutch was in and in gear would be if the main shaft of the trany is locked up with the pilot bearing of the "E" shaft (or crank shaft) I would think if it's in neautral it wold spin freely, how hard it the motor to turn over using the front crank bolt, does it spin freely or can you feel a bind ?

PS. did the slave cylinder come apart in the bell housing ?

Northern7

iTrader: (1)

I will try to spin the motor after work. If that is the problem what is the fix?

The slave cylinder did come apart in the bell housing, also to be put back together in about 6 hours from now.

All parts are new including the pilot bearing and all other related parts ( clutch fork and all seals etc.

kuning

Off topic, but first of all my apologies for this stupid question.
But does the clutch's condition affect dyno figures? (e.g. clutch slipping thus less power)
or since gear ratio equals to 1 on 4th gear, it wont make any difference?

Again, I know it's a stoooopid question, my very apologies =)

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

inspect the clutch switch on the pedal....if that doesnt depress no motor start for you. Good luck man

jiggaFlexxx

There is a ground wire that connects the body to the gear box, make sure that it's connected. It is located in the right hand corner and connects to the top of the gear box.

Northern7

iTrader: (1)

thanks fellas! I'm gonna start know with a slave cylinder rebuild. Like I have any choice since the parts are spewed all over my garage floor!