click.....click....start issues.....
#26
White is tight
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Originally Posted by sereneseven
This actually tells me that your clutch switch is working very well, If the clutch switch is not working the car will not try to crank....the clicking your hearing is the solenoid popping in and out ushually this is caused by either poor grounding or insufficient current to the starter, the reason it clickes on and then off is because once the solenoid is ingaged the starter will pull the current down to level below what is needed to keep the solenoid ingaged causeing it to kick off which at the same time turns the starter off freeing up the current supply to again ingage the solenoid and thus starts the process over again...
If you are running one of the Mini battery relocation kits (odessy..etc) you can probably chalk this up to that. there is a reason the factory put such a big battery in and the reason is reliability.
If you are running one of the Mini battery relocation kits (odessy..etc) you can probably chalk this up to that. there is a reason the factory put such a big battery in and the reason is reliability.
Originally Posted by damonb
Clean the battery terminals. Jumper the clutch switch. If neither of those fix it replace the starter solenoid.
#27
It's Ole' Yeller!
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Should check out a similar situation with mine a couple months ago. It end up being clutch switch. Here's the post I did:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/new-reman-mazda-starter-fine-couple-weeks-but-now-problem-again-584618/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/new-reman-mazda-starter-fine-couple-weeks-but-now-problem-again-584618/
#28
FD enthusiast
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If all of the above suggestions are not the cause, it's likely your ignition switch. The contacts wear to the point of passing just enough current to click the starter solenoid without fully engaging it.
My FD had the same clutch symptoms as you describe. Push it a few times or click the ignition swtich a few times and it would finally start.
After measuring 1.3 ohms across the igntion switch I replaced it and have never had a problem since. The new switch measured 0.1 or so.
A dangerous side-effect of this issue is low fuel pump voltage (since the pump runs off the same ignition switch circuit). It could result in a lean condition if you're running the stock ECU or had your aftermarket ECU tuned when the switch was providing full voltage.
In my case, my WOT AFRs went from ~11.2 to ~10.8 after replacing my ignition switch.
My FD had the same clutch symptoms as you describe. Push it a few times or click the ignition swtich a few times and it would finally start.
After measuring 1.3 ohms across the igntion switch I replaced it and have never had a problem since. The new switch measured 0.1 or so.
A dangerous side-effect of this issue is low fuel pump voltage (since the pump runs off the same ignition switch circuit). It could result in a lean condition if you're running the stock ECU or had your aftermarket ECU tuned when the switch was providing full voltage.
In my case, my WOT AFRs went from ~11.2 to ~10.8 after replacing my ignition switch.
#29
Big Snail
Hmm...anybody have a write up on replacing the ignition switch? Might have to dig through the FSM. Actually come to think of it, I have push button start on my FD. I would figure with the push button start it would bypass the ignition switch.
Originally Posted by patriick
If all of the above suggestions are not the cause, it's likely your ignition switch. The contacts wear to the point of passing just enough current to click the starter solenoid without fully engaging it.
My FD had the same clutch symptoms as you describe. Push it a few times or click the ignition swtich a few times and it would finally start.
After measuring 1.3 ohms across the igntion switch I replaced it and have never had a problem since. The new switch measured 0.1 or so.
A dangerous side-effect of this issue is low fuel pump voltage (since the pump runs off the same ignition switch circuit). It could result in a lean condition if you're running the stock ECU or had your aftermarket ECU tuned when the switch was providing full voltage.
In my case, my WOT AFRs went from ~11.2 to ~10.8 after replacing my ignition switch.
My FD had the same clutch symptoms as you describe. Push it a few times or click the ignition swtich a few times and it would finally start.
After measuring 1.3 ohms across the igntion switch I replaced it and have never had a problem since. The new switch measured 0.1 or so.
A dangerous side-effect of this issue is low fuel pump voltage (since the pump runs off the same ignition switch circuit). It could result in a lean condition if you're running the stock ECU or had your aftermarket ECU tuned when the switch was providing full voltage.
In my case, my WOT AFRs went from ~11.2 to ~10.8 after replacing my ignition switch.
#30
FD enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by 93FD3S
Hmm...anybody have a write up on replacing the ignition switch? Might have to dig through the FSM. Actually come to think of it, I have push button start on my FD. I would figure with the push button start it would bypass the ignition switch.
#31
Big Snail
You know what you are right. I wired it up to work with the key on the on position. You know for theft prevention. Need to call the dealer now and price one out. Any help with the ignition switch replacement? Thanks..!!
Originally Posted by patriick
Does your push-button starter work with the ignition switch off? If not, then it is likely wired through the ignition switch 'ON' position and will suffer the same symptoms.
#32
Senior Member
Turn the key, will nothing happen?
I get an intermittant failure of any action from turning the ignition key. The car is an automatic, so no clutch switch should be involved. Some times a key turn results in an immediate start. When nothing happens from turning the key, there is usually not a solenoid click either. If I turn the ignition key back and forth one or twenty times from on to start, often it will kick in the starter; though sometimes it will first go through a couple cycles of just the solenoid clicking. Occasionally, when nothing happens from going from on to start, I rotate the key all the way to the off position and back to start, and sometimes that causes a live crank. It seems more likely to exhibit the behavior when the weather is damp and the engine and car is either cool or cold; but sometimes also when warm. Within the last year it has had a new ignition switch, a new starter and solenoid, a new battery, and some grounding cables. One cannot rule out the possibility that one of the replacement items was faulty, but it seems like there is some other problem still bedeviling me.
#33
Patience
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Take it off the car, and take it to an auto-electric shop. They will tell you if it is good or not and offer to rebuild it, which if your entire starter isn't completely shot (pretty rare) won't cost much, best guess if its the brushes, maybe 40-60 bucks at best I would think. But if you go to autozone and they test it and it's bad, they will try and sell you a new one (which is just a rebuilt starter) for a lot of money, probably 200+, and they will take your core to send in to be rebuilt to sell to someone else for a rape *** price.
So you can either buy a rebuilt starter from autozone for a couple hundred, or have yours rebuilt for less than a hundred, same results, just one costs more.
So you can either buy a rebuilt starter from autozone for a couple hundred, or have yours rebuilt for less than a hundred, same results, just one costs more.
#36
the battery must be healthy, especially with an undersized one
if your starter will not start the car randomly (click click) you need to find out why
the solenoid does not like voltage under ~10 it will not engage the starter
so if your starter does not turn over you need to find out what the s terminal on the starter is getting
the path is
ignition switch
blue anti theft relay in driver's side kick panel (you wil get nada if this is acting up, no click)
neutral safety switch
grey connector up by the battery
starter solenoid
you need to see where and if you are getting a voltage loss
installing a relay is a simple anwser also.
that said starters and solenoids do go bad, so if you dont have the skill/time to find out and measure anything you are just guessing
if your starter will not start the car randomly (click click) you need to find out why
the solenoid does not like voltage under ~10 it will not engage the starter
so if your starter does not turn over you need to find out what the s terminal on the starter is getting
the path is
ignition switch
blue anti theft relay in driver's side kick panel (you wil get nada if this is acting up, no click)
neutral safety switch
grey connector up by the battery
starter solenoid
you need to see where and if you are getting a voltage loss
installing a relay is a simple anwser also.
that said starters and solenoids do go bad, so if you dont have the skill/time to find out and measure anything you are just guessing
#37
Mazzei Formula
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Ok. i had this same issue with the click click click
1st - replaced starter - no improvement
2nd- replaced battery - worked like a charm NO problems at all
------------------------------------
2 months later, these symptoms pop up
- start the car after sitting for about 10 mins or so and it cranks up perfectly runs for about 2 seconds...rpms dip WAY WAY low, come back to normal dip WAY low (sometimes dies) then recovers and runs fine
- click click is coming back
could it be that my alternator has been bad all along and is not recharging the battery causing it to slowly die and loose is cranking voltage to turn over the car?
1st - replaced starter - no improvement
2nd- replaced battery - worked like a charm NO problems at all
------------------------------------
2 months later, these symptoms pop up
- start the car after sitting for about 10 mins or so and it cranks up perfectly runs for about 2 seconds...rpms dip WAY WAY low, come back to normal dip WAY low (sometimes dies) then recovers and runs fine
- click click is coming back
could it be that my alternator has been bad all along and is not recharging the battery causing it to slowly die and loose is cranking voltage to turn over the car?
#38
I've had this problem since I bought my car too. I removed the starter and solynoid and had them inspected, passed with flying colors. Never figured out what caused it I just lived with it.
#39
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i want to reiterate what someone said about battery terminals. make sure they are tight and clean. I've had three of my fmaily cars have this exact problem in the past month and every one of them was caused by crap battery terminals.
#40
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i dunno if this applies to anyone. but i had a somewhat similar happening with this. I didn't get a starter click. but more of a like hissing "shick" sound when cranking. eventually after 6 months i finally just hear the starter motor spin. i though the solenoid went out.. bought a new starter, fixed it fro 3 days and it happened again. i finally found out that the ring gear on the flywheel separated and would sping around freely when the starter actuated.
like i said. dunno if this relates to anyone. but just giving food for thought and my experience. =-)
Los
like i said. dunno if this relates to anyone. but just giving food for thought and my experience. =-)
Los
#41
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still havnt tackled it. I only does it sometimes. Wen to go get my girl the other day in the 7 (she loves it) got out the car, went inside for a min, went back out. went to start the car......nothing. I was so embarrased. ended up having to push start the ******. never did it since then. only a matter of time before it happens again.
#42
Please somebody help!!!
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Mine has been a little odd it'll do rapid clicks like the battery is dead, and then shut down all together. I get out, arm and disarm the alarm and it starts right up. If the alarm won't arm, i pop the hood, fiddle with the negative terminal and it starts right up.
My guess on my own problem is a crap negative terminal that doesn't like it when the engine starts to turn over... for whatever reason...
My guess on my own problem is a crap negative terminal that doesn't like it when the engine starts to turn over... for whatever reason...
#43
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (25)
I've had the same problem most people are describing. It would just click for the first few times and then it would start after a few tries. It was kind of driving me crazy and I fixed it on accident.
I posted up a pic of my engine bay and DaleClark mentioned I was missing a ground from the UIM to the firewall. I saw Damian's thread in the Archives about the Hyper Ground system and thought I'd install it (not thinking it would fix anything, but why not?).
I used 8 gauge speaker wire and ring terminals and used similar points as him. Now I have never had that problem again. Will start up everytime on the first try. Is fully functional, looks good, and only costs $50. Worth a try.
I posted up a pic of my engine bay and DaleClark mentioned I was missing a ground from the UIM to the firewall. I saw Damian's thread in the Archives about the Hyper Ground system and thought I'd install it (not thinking it would fix anything, but why not?).
I used 8 gauge speaker wire and ring terminals and used similar points as him. Now I have never had that problem again. Will start up everytime on the first try. Is fully functional, looks good, and only costs $50. Worth a try.
#44
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Originally Posted by AHarada
I've had the same problem most people are describing. It would just click for the first few times and then it would start after a few tries. It was kind of driving me crazy and I fixed it on accident.
I posted up a pic of my engine bay and DaleClark mentioned I was missing a ground from the UIM to the firewall. I saw Damian's thread in the Archives about the Hyper Ground system and thought I'd install it (not thinking it would fix anything, but why not?).
I used 8 gauge speaker wire and ring terminals and used similar points as him. Now I have never had that problem again. Will start up everytime on the first try. Is fully functional, looks good, and only costs $50. Worth a try.
I posted up a pic of my engine bay and DaleClark mentioned I was missing a ground from the UIM to the firewall. I saw Damian's thread in the Archives about the Hyper Ground system and thought I'd install it (not thinking it would fix anything, but why not?).
I used 8 gauge speaker wire and ring terminals and used similar points as him. Now I have never had that problem again. Will start up everytime on the first try. Is fully functional, looks good, and only costs $50. Worth a try.
well i have tons of speaker wire laying around....and if that would help...its def a cheep fix if thats it. ill give it a try this weekend
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