Check valve question
#1
Check valve question
I noticed that when i was replacing my vacuum chamber under the alternator that there was a metal check valve coming from the solenoid into the UIM its coming off the purge control....now my question is, is this supposed to be a one way check valve? because it is not doing much of anything...i dont have ne thing to compare it to so if ne one could enlighten me i would appreciate it
#7
alright...well is it a one way because this is not holding pressure going back to the solenoid...i can easily blow through both ends
<edit>Yeah i see on the diagram it is nevermind, this needs to be replaced...im guessing i can use a viton one or just another check off valve since i have extra other ones...(one way)...unless this has a different psi it is supposed to hold?</edit>
<edit>Yeah i see on the diagram it is nevermind, this needs to be replaced...im guessing i can use a viton one or just another check off valve since i have extra other ones...(one way)...unless this has a different psi it is supposed to hold?</edit>
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#8
Warming the planet.
That ck valve has nothing to do with boost. It part of the fuel vapor recovery system, I dont think one of Dale's ck valves would be the best choice. But I've never seen the stock one go bad, you should be able to clean it with some carb cleaner
#10
Warming the planet.
Originally Posted by Gadd
That ck valve has nothing to do with boost. It part of the fuel vapor recovery system, I dont think one of Dale's ck valves would be the best choice. But I've never seen the stock one go bad, you should be able to clean it with some carb cleaner
Doh!!!!!!! I meant one of Dale's ck valve's WOULD NOT be the best choice.
#11
The Anti-Prius
iTrader: (9)
The metal check valve is part of the purge control system (fuel tank vent). It has fuel vapor running through it. A plastic check valve would not be a suitable substitute.
Pg F-129 in the FSM has a detailed description of it.
The direction of the arrow should point to the UIM (upper intake manifold)
It is a one way check valve. Test it, if it flows both ways you will need to replace it.
It's a dealer only item P/N is NF01-13-890 around $20 or so.
Call Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda the phone number is 1-888-533-3400. He will confirm if I posted the correct p/n.
If your curious if it is contributing to your boost problem you can plug the line & cap the check valve. Running it that way for a day wont hurt anything. The fuel vapor will vent through the charcoal canister near the rear diff (you wont smell anything).
Pg F-129 in the FSM has a detailed description of it.
The direction of the arrow should point to the UIM (upper intake manifold)
It is a one way check valve. Test it, if it flows both ways you will need to replace it.
It's a dealer only item P/N is NF01-13-890 around $20 or so.
Call Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda the phone number is 1-888-533-3400. He will confirm if I posted the correct p/n.
If your curious if it is contributing to your boost problem you can plug the line & cap the check valve. Running it that way for a day wont hurt anything. The fuel vapor will vent through the charcoal canister near the rear diff (you wont smell anything).
#12
Old School
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The metal check valve has gone bad on both my FDs. Both were open in both directions. I doubt it would cause a boost problem. It is the cheapest check valve Mazda sales but I WOULD recommend one of Dale's check valves for this. Dales check valves are made out of Viton and PVDF (Kynar). Looking at the chemical compatibility...
http://www.coleparmer.co.uk/techinfo...e=&openlist=II
The Material Selected Viton®
Interacting with the Chemical Gasoline, unleaded
Has a Compatibility Level of A-Excellent
The Material Selected PVDF (Kynar®)
Interacting with the Chemical Gasoline, unleaded
Has a Compatibility Level of A-Excellent
Dale's check valves...
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=26&mnu=8
http://www.coleparmer.co.uk/techinfo...e=&openlist=II
The Material Selected Viton®
Interacting with the Chemical Gasoline, unleaded
Has a Compatibility Level of A-Excellent
The Material Selected PVDF (Kynar®)
Interacting with the Chemical Gasoline, unleaded
Has a Compatibility Level of A-Excellent
Dale's check valves...
http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=26&mnu=8
#13
What's your point ?
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Originally Posted by Gadd
Doh!!!!!!! I meant one of Dale's ck valve's WOULD NOT be the best choice.
#15
Warming the planet.
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
So I guess since Dale and I have been using these for a year or so means nothing ??? I would venture to guess you have some experience with them and this is where your knowledge comes from ? ? ? Please enlighten us as to where you obtained your facts for this recomendation.
Dale's valves are too small for the purge line, the stock one is metal and can be cleaned and there can be liquid fuel in that line when the purge control valve opens, a failure of the valve (if he valve brakes open) would dump fuel and/or fuel vapor in to the eng. compartment, the metal stock one is less likely to fail. And just for clarifcation, I have replace all 4 of the stock ck valves for the vacuum lines with Dale's on my car they are a great replacment.
#16
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Originally Posted by Gadd
Dale's valves are too small for the purge line, the stock one is metal and can be cleaned and there can be liquid fuel in that line when the purge control valve opens, a failure of the valve (if he valve brakes open) would dump fuel and/or fuel vapor in to the eng. compartment, the metal stock one is less likely to fail. And just for clarifcation, I have replace all 4 of the stock ck valves for the vacuum lines with Dale's on my car they are a great replacment.
I also wonder if the 3/16" check valves would fit better in the 3.5 mm or 4 mm silicone hose than the 1/8" Dale sells. The silicone should stretch that much.
#17
What's your point ?
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Originally Posted by Gadd
Dale's valves are too small for the purge line, the stock one is metal and can be cleaned and there can be liquid fuel in that line when the purge control valve opens, a failure of the valve (if he valve brakes open) would dump fuel and/or fuel vapor in to the eng. compartment, the metal stock one is less likely to fail. And just for clarifcation, I have replace all 4 of the stock ck valves for the vacuum lines with Dale's on my car they are a great replacment.
#19
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Originally Posted by afterburn27
Doh! Looks like Dale's source has been found. Oh well, I ordered mine from him and I don't mind paying extra because he makes some kickass writeups and is a helpful contributor to the FD community.
Got to make hay when the sun is shinning. He reaped a pretty decent harvest and probably helped a number of members with intermitten boost issues which in itself worth the price of admission. Most deffinately a contributor to the community. If he contributes half as much for the FD community as he did for the second gen group we will all benefit from it. Jack
#20
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
The check valves I sell don't include one for the metal check valve, just for the 4 plastic check valves. I could probably spec a larger check valve to replace the metal one, but I was under the impression that the metal valve was more durable, and many times could just be cleaned with carb cleaner if it was stuck. I've torn a metal valve apart before, and it's a ball/spring check valve which is typically very durable.
I don't get my check valves from US Plastics, though . The big thing with my valves is I'm buying them in bulk to pass the savings on, and I do take some exposure buying a bunch of check valves that will hopefully sell . I do make some money on them of course, but it mainly compensates for my time, going to the post office, etc. etc. It's just a way to help make the hobby pay for itself a little. I'm definitely not getting rich off the sales!
On the size of the valves - the next size up is (I think) 3/16". I've got some samples, but the next size is just a little too big for me to be comfortable with. You really have to shove it into the hose, and I could see many people using too much pressure and breaking the nipple off the check valve. The 1/8" nipple check valves aren't as tight as I'd like on 3.5mm silicone, but with zipties they fit GREAT, I've yet to have one pop off or fail on my car, and have yet to hear of a fit problem from any that I've sold.
If anyone has any questions or anything about 'em, drop me a PM. I'm not on the forum as much as I'd like nowadays - my new job has me on the road all day instead of in front of a PC bored all day .
Dale
I don't get my check valves from US Plastics, though . The big thing with my valves is I'm buying them in bulk to pass the savings on, and I do take some exposure buying a bunch of check valves that will hopefully sell . I do make some money on them of course, but it mainly compensates for my time, going to the post office, etc. etc. It's just a way to help make the hobby pay for itself a little. I'm definitely not getting rich off the sales!
On the size of the valves - the next size up is (I think) 3/16". I've got some samples, but the next size is just a little too big for me to be comfortable with. You really have to shove it into the hose, and I could see many people using too much pressure and breaking the nipple off the check valve. The 1/8" nipple check valves aren't as tight as I'd like on 3.5mm silicone, but with zipties they fit GREAT, I've yet to have one pop off or fail on my car, and have yet to hear of a fit problem from any that I've sold.
If anyone has any questions or anything about 'em, drop me a PM. I'm not on the forum as much as I'd like nowadays - my new job has me on the road all day instead of in front of a PC bored all day .
Dale
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