Hi all,

Is it ok to just remove the charcoal canister when installing aftermarket lines? It's kind of in the way and it would be easiest just ro remove it.

I'm not sure what to do with the lines that go to it from the tank, is it ok to just cut them?

 

I'll be removing mine as well. The line that goes from the tank... just cap it off?

 

After doing a bit of research, it looks like it might be a bad idea to delete it. The vent from the tank will end up going to atmosphere, and potentially make the car smell.

 

You should have asked me when you were at the shop yesterday

Keep the line and canister, but you can ditch the solenoid. Just run the line from the canister direct to the UIM with the metal check valve inline.

 

Haha, thanks, i hadn't try to run my fuel lines yet so didn't think of it.

Mine hasn't been hooked up to anything in the engine bay since I got the car. I guess I'll just leave it but snip of the line that ran to the front of the car and remove the hardline.

Now i need to figure out how to route the lines around it.

 

This makes your idle richer though. That's how I had mine before with just the solenoid removed for several years, the other day I just vented the line into the front frame rail and capped the uim where the hose was connected to, and afr leaned out a good bit on the wideband, had to add fuel to my maps to get the car to idle right again and get it down to the same afr. The engine sucks in gas fumes from your tank and makes the idle richer if you remove that solenoid. I wish I would have realized this a long time ago.

So if you are using 850s in the primary's like me, and you need a leaner idle, do as I did above.

This solenoid was bad on my subaru and everytime I pumped gas lots of fumes were going into the engine causing it to not want to start and then it wouldn't idle for a little bit, too much fumes were getting into the engine making it too rich. So I vented the hose and all was well, then realized how I had this setup in my rx7.

 

Couldn't you just adjust your map so it didn't idle rich? I deleted mine on my k24 crx and ran fine, trying to figure out how its done on the seven cux some one told me to keep it on.

 

No. With the 850 primary injectors you usually have to add negative lag to get a better idle afr that isn't too rich, it can be hard to get a good afr with the fuel map that won't let you go any leaner without adding negative lag and having to check or tune your whole map.

 

I'm In the middle of going single so change my fuel setup and have id2000 and id1000 and yet to get it tuned. Question is should I just Vent that line ahead of time to help prevent the rich idel?

 

What if you're running 550 primaries? I would imagine running the line to the UIM won't be much of an issue, no?

 

and remember that gas fumes will be a bit more pronounced on hot summer days versus cold in winter. this will cause issues with fuel trims from season to season.

i prefer to keep the charcoal canister when possible but on cars that have no space to relocate it i just omit it and vent the vapors to atmosphere.

just don't go using a lighter for a flashlight...

even if you don't plumb the charcoal canister to vent into the intake it will still eat up the hydrocarbons and prevent the vapor from becoming flammable.

 

back again. so vent it?

or back to the UIM?

 

Back to the UIM is fine if you have the stock 550 primaries, bigger injectors I would/did vent it.

 

do you have pictures of a setup with a deleted canister? the place i got my car from drilled into my canister and my fuel tank to mount a meth injection so i just fixed all that but i cant fix the canister.

and do i need to keep the check valve?

 

Is there a step by step how to on how to replace it? I have fuel smell from left rear wheel well after shut down and I think my canister is saturated. There are some threads on 1st and 2nd gens but didn't see any how to on 3rd gen. Or is it too simple of a task to make a how to? I just know roughly where it is haven't poked at it yet.

thanks,

David