Changing The Twins.
03-17-10, 01:27 PM
#1
Changing The Twins.
Ok when switching to a different set of twins what should I expect as far as how much oil and coolant will leak out when removing the stock set of twins? Also any tips that will make this go much easier will be welcomed? Thanks much guys
03-17-10, 01:35 PM
#2
supra7
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U shouldn't loose much oil at all. You will loose a good bit of coolant though. All the bolts will be tuff to remove, rusted and be ready for some of them to break off...so use plenty of PB blast or something like that and take your time
03-17-10, 02:32 PM
#3
I would suggest you have some new copper nuts (9 or 10 ea. 10mm and 1 ea. 8mm) so you have them ready. And copper crush washers for the coolant and oil feed lines. Also gaskets for the oil return lines. 3 are alike and one is an oddball.
I replaced the nuts and gaskets when I changed mine but just cleaned the crush washers real well with a wire brush. I had a hard time finding the correct ones. Some say the gaskets can be reused and it's undoubtedly true, it would be just such a PITA if it leaked because of a used gasket.
Consider getting 10mm and 8mm taps and dies and chasing threads before you re-install.
I replaced the nuts and gaskets when I changed mine but just cleaned the crush washers real well with a wire brush. I had a hard time finding the correct ones. Some say the gaskets can be reused and it's undoubtedly true, it would be just such a PITA if it leaked because of a used gasket.
Consider getting 10mm and 8mm taps and dies and chasing threads before you re-install.
03-17-10, 03:47 PM
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
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All the oil is sitting in the oil pan with the car off, so you will only get a drip or two there. For the coolant, smart money is to pull the radiator drain and drain it out, otherwise you'll keep getting coolant leaking down right where you're trying to work.
You'll want to try and get all the gaskets and fasteners for the job ahead of time, but be ready to put the car down for a week if you have to order in more parts. It's smarter to do it right ONCE if you run into something that isn't 100%.
As far as what to have on hand, get new oil return line gaskets, there's 4 of them total, and the 2 coolant lines to the turbo if they haven't been changed in recent memory. If the metal gaskets between the compressor intake and compressor outlet are still the old paper gaskets or are beat up, go ahead and get those (4 of them).
Nuts and studs are the biggie. I love ATP Turbo's copper locking exhaust nuts. You'll need both the 10mm size and the 8mm size - there's only 1 8mm size nut on there, but get a good pile of the 10mm's - they are also for the downpipe as well. ATP also sells studs, get a sack of them too. If the OEM studs stay in place and are OK, let 'em ride and use the new ATP nuts. Also, get washers to go with the nuts, most any washer that's the right size will work, or get **** like me and order stainless washers in the correct size from McMaster-Carr.
PB Blaster is your friend here big time. Soak all the fasteners and let it sit and work for a while.
The only expensive gaskets is if you need the exhaust gaskets, like downpipe to turbo or turbo to manifold. Typically they're reusable if they're not blown out, but they're REALLY pricey new from Mazda. If they aren't damaged, they're fine to reuse, I've done that many times with great success.
Good luck with it. It's not too bad of a job, but just go slow and take your time.
Dale
You'll want to try and get all the gaskets and fasteners for the job ahead of time, but be ready to put the car down for a week if you have to order in more parts. It's smarter to do it right ONCE if you run into something that isn't 100%.
As far as what to have on hand, get new oil return line gaskets, there's 4 of them total, and the 2 coolant lines to the turbo if they haven't been changed in recent memory. If the metal gaskets between the compressor intake and compressor outlet are still the old paper gaskets or are beat up, go ahead and get those (4 of them).
Nuts and studs are the biggie. I love ATP Turbo's copper locking exhaust nuts. You'll need both the 10mm size and the 8mm size - there's only 1 8mm size nut on there, but get a good pile of the 10mm's - they are also for the downpipe as well. ATP also sells studs, get a sack of them too. If the OEM studs stay in place and are OK, let 'em ride and use the new ATP nuts. Also, get washers to go with the nuts, most any washer that's the right size will work, or get **** like me and order stainless washers in the correct size from McMaster-Carr.
PB Blaster is your friend here big time. Soak all the fasteners and let it sit and work for a while.
The only expensive gaskets is if you need the exhaust gaskets, like downpipe to turbo or turbo to manifold. Typically they're reusable if they're not blown out, but they're REALLY pricey new from Mazda. If they aren't damaged, they're fine to reuse, I've done that many times with great success.
Good luck with it. It's not too bad of a job, but just go slow and take your time.
Dale
03-17-10, 06:14 PM
#5
Just did the whole thing myself. Undoubtedly you will back out studs in the turbos if the nuts haven't been removed. If you don't PB blast soak them expect this to happen. If you do.. Expect this to happen on at least 1. Ask me how I know. 
^ Dale's Advice is spot on and I wish I would have found ATP prior to ording all the studs nuts new from Mazda, but hey I gave Ray some business so no biggie.
Coolant wise, do what I did and use this as the perfect timing to go ahead and flush your coolant system. Then you will realize you should probably go ahead and get new radiator hoses to do it right once the fluid is all out. Then you you get set to order new hoses and you will see a great deal on a koyo or fluidyne radiator and figure, might as well get a new better cooling rad without the plastic end tanks while its drained. At least this way you wont have coolant dripping on your tools etc.
Make sure you prime the turbos with a little oil before you hook the new ones back on.
BTW, on the gaskets, you can get gaskets from Pineapple racing that are cheaper. Plenty of ppl on the boards here use them or Remflex if you don't want to spend the $$$ on the OEMs. The oil line gaskets etc should be replaced even though you could probably reuse them, but like Dale I am **** and don't want to chance doing it a second time cause I tried to cut corners. These are pretty cheap too.
Good Luck and Patience
^ Dale's Advice is spot on and I wish I would have found ATP prior to ording all the studs nuts new from Mazda, but hey I gave Ray some business so no biggie.
Coolant wise, do what I did and use this as the perfect timing to go ahead and flush your coolant system. Then you will realize you should probably go ahead and get new radiator hoses to do it right once the fluid is all out. Then you you get set to order new hoses and you will see a great deal on a koyo or fluidyne radiator and figure, might as well get a new better cooling rad without the plastic end tanks while its drained. At least this way you wont have coolant dripping on your tools etc.
Make sure you prime the turbos with a little oil before you hook the new ones back on.
BTW, on the gaskets, you can get gaskets from Pineapple racing that are cheaper. Plenty of ppl on the boards here use them or Remflex if you don't want to spend the $$$ on the OEMs. The oil line gaskets etc should be replaced even though you could probably reuse them, but like Dale I am **** and don't want to chance doing it a second time cause I tried to cut corners. These are pretty cheap too.
Good Luck and Patience
03-17-10, 09:23 PM
#7
Please somebody help!!!
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