Sup guys.

Having troubles starting my car after a little incident.

So here's the prelude: I wanted to drive my car so I go to turn it on. It turns on and idles insanely low then instantly dies. Now it doesn't turn on anymore. ( Reason it idled low was cause I messed with the TPS and I adjusted it incorrectly but I fixed it now, I get proper readings )

My guess is that its flooded but Ive had no luck deflooding it, not even sure if im doing it correctly but ive followed the instructions I found on here.

I did a compression test and I get 90 PSI on all faces evenly on both rotors but since the car won't start and its cold these numbers probably mean nothing according to this: Compression Test so I don't even know what parameters to believe right now.

I tried deflooding it twice and everytime I go to try to turn the car on with everything back in I smell gas.


Does anyone have any clues to what my problem could be and how I should go about fixing this?

 

Is your battery nice and strong ?

I had it once or twice on my car where the battery wasn't quite strong enough to start it. It sounded good but putting a jumper pack on it, gave the starter the extra umph to get it running after flooding it.

 

Checked the battery and it seems strong enough.

 

Okay maybe I'm not doing things right but I tried deflooding again. I pull out the fuel pump relay and crank the car to burn off all the fuel and as soon as I start cranking I can smell fuel from the cabin? Any ideas?

 

You need to remove the spark plugs & crank while the fuse/ relay is removed. Then the excess fuel comes out the spark plugs holes in a mist.

Also maybe give the plugs a clean if they are not new.

 

I did this already, didn't work. Came back to try the day after and just air came out of the plug holes.

 

Try a new set of plugs! I had a set that looked excellent (3400 miles) but after starting the car in my shop and moving it about 20 feet I got a phone call and forgot to let it warm up before shutting it off and I tried for a whole day to get it to pop again and after cleaning the plugs rolling it over for about 5 minutes without plugs or fuel pump running and it still refused to start I remembered I had a new set in my track box I swapped them out and WOWZA it popped right off with a cloud of smoke and ran like it normally did.
Give it a try, I tried cleaning my old plugs with brake kleen and staring fluid and even baked them in the oven for 1/2 hour at 300 but they would still not start the car.
New plugs popped it right off. Another rotary mystery I will never understand. Now whenever I replace plugs I keep the old set just in case I have a brain fart and flood it again ( 3 times in 31 years of driving rotary's)

 

I've read that you can foul plugs with oil and since you need to inject oil into the plug holes wouldn't that just potentially be wasting new plugs? I live in Canada and its like 76$ before tax to even get them here ( couldnt find in my local shops )

Some more info on issue:

Everytime I try the deflooding procedure and I get in the car to crank it the RPM needle jumps a bit then does a bunch of tiny jumps. Feels like I can almost start it.

Also when I did my compression test thats when it was flooded. I've read that the carbon build up from flooding makes you lose compression, so does that mean my engine should be holding higher than 90 after I fix this issue?

 

To do a really good deflood I used to always first remove all plugs,, clean and dry them. Crank out all fuel in the rota housings (crank for 15 seconds,,, leave it 5 mins then crank again for 15 seconds, don't forget to pull egi fuse),, inject a little oil using a plastic syringe into both lower plug holes, then using a socket on alternator turn the engine round and round spread the oil around I used to do 20 30 revolutions.,, then put plugs back in and fire it up. if car isn't unflooded completely it wont fire trust me.

 

Have you checked the basics?

Spark, fuel pressure... etc?

 

Checked for spark. Haven't checked fuel pressure. How do I check for fuel pressure?

 

My guess is your TPS is still off, flooded or you have a weak battery trying to deflood. I doubt that anything else is wrong unless you've tampered with them. Get a battery boost before troubleshooting any further

 

First time I did the cranking after deflooded I had a booster on it. Only thing I touched was the TPS. I readjusted the TPS and getting proper readings now. The first time I adjusted the TPS just caused me to stall instantly after stalling the car which Im assuming caused my flood.

 

So I finally got my car to start today after doing some more deflooding procedures but it died after a second of running and got flooded again. This is the first time I got it to turn on after deflooding and it was also the only time I put oil into the plug holes.

I put 1 tbspn of oil into each rotor housing ( not ATF, i used my normal 10w40 prtial synthetic). A guide I was reading said to put 3 tbspn in total of oil into the housing. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...5/#post7675950

I've been doing some research on cars dying after a second of running and a lot of people mention a fuel issue, except my engine gets flooded right after so it is clearly getting fuel.

Any suggestions on what I could do?

 

First off, put some new plugs in. You don't need a full set, just get 2 leading plugs. Your plugs are fouled out and will never light off a cold, flooded motor.

Second, check to make sure you didn't knock off the vacuum line to the MAP sensor on the firewall.

For the plugs, look online - sparkplugs.com, Amazon.com - you should be able to find a good deal.

You will NEVER get it to start with those plugs.

Dale

 

My car did start with those plugs as I mentioned right above your post. The vacuum hose on the MAP sensor is still on. Any other suggestions? Maybe I didn't throttle it soon enough before it died? I think I may have pressed the throttle as it was already dying.

 

Ok guys. I've tried absolutely everything besides replacing spark plugs. Here's a video of what happens:


Sometimes I have to crank for a while to get it up like that sometimes it'll do that on the first crank but it'll always die right away and barely gets over 500 RPM.


Any suggestions at all? It's getting pretty nice out and I'd like to be able to take my car out soon.

 

Bump. Anyone have any ideas? I haven't been able to figure it out yet.

 

When cranking it doesn't even look like your RPM gauge is moving. Think that's a CAS issue. Check the wires to it. Your fuel pump isn't rewired or anything right? Try some new plugs if all else fails like already mentioned.

Matt

 

As I've already stated, PUT NEW PLUGS IN IT. You want our help, there you go.

Just get 2 leading plugs, put them in, and done. Should run you $20 for 2 new plugs.

Matt, the tach is bouncing when it's cranking, video may not have played right for you. So it is getting a tach signal.

Dale

 

^^^

Played it again and I saw it. Maybe it just froze or something.

Matt

 

Will do sir. I was hesitant to get plugs cause it's a lot more than 20$ here but it seems it's the only thing I haven't tried. I'll update this post when I get new plugs.

Thanks Dale

 

I know its like $200.00 for a set of four new plugs where I live, but my advice is also the same- DO NOT re-use plugs that have been in a fouled/flooded rotary. Suck up the awful expense because its a cost of owning the car unfortunately..

You can clean them, wire brush them, propane torch them, I have found over ten years of playing with these things, it does not matter. Once they've been fouled, throw them out.

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I had an FD that persistently would not start. I went to look at it as the owners had it up for sale in frustration. I asked them if they had changed the plugs out. These guys held up a big bucket full of old used plugs!! Maybe 60 used plugs in the bucket. They said they tried every plug in the bucket and it wouldn't fire and they had been trying for 2 weeks with new plug wires, coils, igniter... etc.
I scolded them to go buy a goddamn new set of plugs instead of f$%^&ing around through all these old used ones. They bought a new set and the car fired up.

 

I don't mind spending money where it's needed. I just like to confirm before buying new part/parts if that isn't going to fix the actual problem.

I also can't get them at a local parts store so I have to wait a week or two to get them.

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it all.

 

Ever get it running?