After a long hard run up in KC I was coming back home and my car started loosing power while accelerating up a hill. It completely died on me when I came to a stop and wouldn't restart. I'm going to check the fuel pressure this weekend, could there be any other possiblilities for such a sudden loss of power. While all the loss of power was taking place I noticed that the engine would sputter even worse when the boost was trying to go over the 0 mark. The more I pushed it the worse it got.

 

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There can only be two possibilities for the kind of power loss you're talking about.
1. No spark, ignition system failiur.
Clamp on a timing light to the plug wires and see if it fires off.
2. No fuel, fuel delivery system failiur.
Like you said, check fuel pressure.

 

If there's not any spark wouldn't there be a definate flooding fuel smell?

 

You would only smell the fuel if there is a leak in the fuel system or when you remove the plugs (excess fuel should go out the exhaust port, so I guess you could smell it there). I could be wrong on this one though.

 

Long shot, but check the boost sensor hose. If u are experiencing power loss and a rough idle, this may be ur symptom. It is located on the driver's side firewall. the hose connects to the nipple and frequently comes off causing power loss. If this isnt it, hope u find ur problem. Good luck

 

It's not the boost sensor.

If the problem does lie in the fuel pump what is a good stock replacement? Might as well change the filter also, any suggestions on what to get.

 

If you are looking for stock replacement check with www.mazdatrix.com for the OE part.
If you want to upgrade to a higher flow fuel pump check with the RX-7 store the link is ^.

 

Ok... I'm getting spark, fuel pressure is fine, relays are clicking, smoke coming out the tail pipe, but the car still won't start...

Am I missing something? The manual keeps referring to a SST (super specialty tool?). The diagnostic tool, is there any other place that might have them besides the dealership. Would it be wise to have the mechanics hook it up to their machine to see what's wrong with it ($79/hr). I really like working on the car, but where are the trouble codes. Without the codes I'm lost. How common is it for the timing, crank sensor to go out?

Any more ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

bump

 

So you check engine light doesn't come on?

 

Nope, it just won't start. I'm beginning to think it might be the timing chain.

 

Not sure what timing chain you are talking about, but I don't think you have one.

There is a drive chain on the oil pump...but I don't know of a timing chain.

Did you ever think of checking the compression of the engine? Did the car run hot or anything? Did you pop a hose off somewhere?

Just some thoughts.

Patrick

 

Sorry, a V8 guy is try to come up with some solutions, it's a rotory not a piston, I keep forgeting. I'll check the hoses tonight after work.

 

Z-
Pull the egi fuse on the block by the battery. Crank the car for about 15 seconds. This will clear any "built up, loaded fuel" from the housings. Next Pull the plugs. If they are soaked then the thing is flooded. And yes you would definately smell the fuel, remember that the rotary has no valves therefore the fuel would keep pouring in and swathed out into the exhaust manifold, you would smell it in the exhaust. Any way, after you blow the plugs dry, reinstall them. Place the egi fuse back in the fuse block. Next, open the diagnostics box on the drivers fender well by the battery, take a small piece of wire and make a jump wire. Inside the diagnostics box cover, you'll see a bunch of letters corresponding to the pin connector. Jump the F/P and GND. Turn the ignition to the ON position, not start! The fuel pump will prime the fuel rail. Now, after the rails are primed, remove the wire and try to start the car. This may help get it started. IF she still won't start, I'm afraid that the engine may be done. Most engines I have done have gone in the winter when the air is most dense, the map sensor doesnt do a good job with "thick" air in stock computer config. You can also give me a PM or a call, at 913-390-8154 if you need more help, if you want to.
Art

 

Just had another thought, Z, when you noticed the performance falling off, was the boost coming on smoothly, or was it fluttering as it built boost?
Art

 

It was fluttering.

 

Ok, Art, I think my first intuition was right, blew the seals.
What can I salvage out of this motor? Can I just replace the seals and hope it didn't mess up the turbos? You would think something that drastic would happen while your running it hard not doing the speed limit.

 

Looked at the spark plug wires again and found corrosion in the L2 coil along with the rest of the wire. The wire was burnt in two so I'll be changing the wires and cleaning out the coil, hopefully this will fix the problem.