i got done with my nonsequential mod today and went out for the maiden voyage... well, after making sure everthing was cool, i hit it in first gear and got a little wheelhop, hit second and it wheel hopped slightly and the car just turned off...

i thought that maybe the battery came disconnected, but all the electrical stuff works fine. i checked every fuse and they are all good. its almost like the coils or injectors came unplugged or something, but they are all plugged in!

i thought maybe the last thing i should check is the fuel pump relay... other than that, i'm stumped. what do you guys think?

 

Do you mean it just won't start or it is totally dead with no power anywhere?
We can't help you if you don't give us all the symptoms

I would start by looking at the EGI relay and fuse and all the other fuses and relays under the hood - sounds like a bad connection or short

 

HOW TO PEP UP YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

A respected RX-7 mechanic says that no car leaves his shop without the following simple modifications done to the electrical system. All are done with 8 or 10 gauge wire. You can secure the wire to the battery terminals using the terminal clamps, or you can get clamps which have provisions for extra wiring--as you might find with a complex auto sound system.

Run two new ground wires. One goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal. The other goes from a bolt or bare-spot on the chassis to the negative battery terminal. The additional ground paths will provide a little cushion for the stock wiring which is marginal when new. This has been known to solve low voltage problems at the cigarette lighter--the kind that gives you low voltage warnings on cell phones or Valentine One radar detectors. The V-1 detectors will show a false "laser alert" if you try to power it with low voltage.

Run one new wire between the alternator output (the wire secured by a nut) and the positive terminal of the battery. This parallels the stock wire and makes it "easier" for the alternator to recharge the battery. With both these modifications, you should see at least 13.8 volts at on your dashboard volt meter when at idle (but without other electrical loads).

hahaha used this paste twice in 5 min... taken from fd3s.net

maybe you have a grounding issue.. if not test your relays as per FSM

 

1) do you own an FD...there is no volt meter on the dash.

2) electricity flows like water...path of least resistance. IF you parallel the ALT output...MOST (if not all) of the electrons will flow thru the wire that has the path of least resistance.

 

1 yes but you can hook a voltmeter to check voltage /some people have volt gauges =P

2 ok ok i wont paste this link anymore. seemed to help resposiveness though..

 

uhh ok.

so how do i check the fuel pump relay? i checked the fuse, its all good.





everything electrical works, as i said in my first post.

 

checked the fuel pump, its functioning correctly.

any ideas?

 

Jacob,

Is the car not running now, or did it just shut once while you are driving and started back up again?

 

i hit second gear, the car wheelhopped, it shut off, now it wont start.

 

do our cars have the inertia switch for the fuel pump?

 

Is the car trying to turn over or not (if not would start checking fuses, specifically the main)? Did you verify that you have spark?

 

yes it turns over and the battery works fine and has a full charge..

i was also wondering about the inertia switch. does anybody know if our cars have one?

checked all fuses, they're all good.

 

The same thing happend to me when the map sensor vaccume line came off. Are you sure it diddnt pop off?

 

ok guys, figured it out

when the car wheel hopped, the wires for the MOP and the CAS fell onto the main pulley and got broken...

so i repaired all of them and was still getting a bad MOP code, so i assumed it was dead. i replaced the MOP and got rid of the code, but the ECU is stuck in limp mode...

does anyone have any idea what codes can cause limp mode?

 

Did you check to see what codes are stored in the ECU currently?

I would reset the ECU, start it up and check for codes.

 

i did that. codes are 5, 42, 43

 

5 Knock sensor
42 Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43 Solenoid valve - wastegate control

I believe all 3 of those will throw the car into limp mode (#5 most definitely).

 

i've had #5 since i got the car and no limp mode. i'll go plug in my solenoids so it'll drop codes 42 and 43 and report back

 

plugged the solenoids in and all i'm left with is code 05, which is knock sensor. can a knock sensor set off ECU limp mode? i've been driving my car for months with a bad knock sensor and it hasnt been in limp mode.

i'm worried that possibly something got screwed up in my ECU when the MOP wires got snagged by the crank pulley...

 

Well, that's what the Knock Sensor is there for to detect high knock and allow the stock ECU to retard timing. Have you tried to drive the car since you plugged back in the two solenoids?

 

yes, the codes are gone, only code 05 is left. the FSM states that the only effect the knock sensor has on the ecu is it slightly changes the idle in all conditions.

yeah i drove it and it is still in limp mode after the ECU being reset and having only the 05 knock sensor code