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Car is running hot...90c-100c...why?

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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 08:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ccanepa50
50/50 is a a-way rich mix in my book, you are in Fla so why so rich, try 20 or 30% max coolant, hell, 100% water w/ water wetter is optimal...........+1 on the above comments
100% water can be dangerous if you don't know how to deal with it. Blew a kart motor like that.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 08:52 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ccanepa50
50/50 is a a-way rich mix in my book, you are in Fla so why so rich, try 20 or 30% max coolant, hell, 100% water w/ water wetter is optimal...........+1 on the above comments
Not sure how 100% water would cause you to blow an engine. Water cools better than antifreeze. The main problem is that is does not have anti-corrosive agents.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #28  
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from the bible.


https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/big-fat-fd3s-cooling-thread-571088/


you guys freak out to much that should be expectable and with-in the normal ops.

my car stays at 184f to 190f no undertray fans always on.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HawaiianRedMako
Good to hear that..watch how much you drill into the termostat. I think there is a limit of 1/8 total inch, but may be wrong. Don't remember what is the limit?

I got my fans rewired off the relays coupled to a manual switch. Works well, just need to remember to turn it off when parked. I'll add some LED indicator lights and hook it up next time.
I don't remember the limit.

Hmm...LED is a nice idea, I haven't thought of that. Remembering to turn them off when parked is exactly what I have a problem with. The other problem is that I have yet to figure out how to wire the relays so that I can turn the fans on high speed instead of low or medium.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 09:59 AM
  #30  
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FYI a vented hood does actually help water temps as well as intake temps.

When I had my vented hood installed it was on a 100 F + day. On the drive to the shop my PFC read 102C, on the way back (a half hour later) it was reading 97C. Both readings where from a constant 20 minute drive on the freeway and with the AC on.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 10:55 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by moconnor
Not sure how 100% water would cause you to blow an engine. Water cools better than antifreeze. The main problem is that is does not have anti-corrosive agents.
Pure water will boil easier than an A-F mixture, and can cause hot spots and water loss, possibly leading to seized pistons and/or overheating.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 11:05 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by moconnor
Not sure how 100% water would cause you to blow an engine. Water cools better than antifreeze. The main problem is that is does not have anti-corrosive agents.
What dissipates heat quicker, but it has a much lower boiling point.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 11:15 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by theorie
i'm going to do the magnet trick on the oil filter. i just need to pick up some strong magnets & duct tape tomorrow
Check the product at the bottom of the screen. I've been running one for years

http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fdengine_maintenance.html
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 11:52 AM
  #34  
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What happened to getting a high pressure radiator cap? looks like you guys may have forgotten? A higher pressure radiator cap can also cut back on the boiling point.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Triperformance
What happened to getting a high pressure radiator cap? looks like you guys may have forgotten? A higher pressure radiator cap can also cut back on the boiling point.
Yes, but it can also shorten the life of your hoses; i.e. increase the likely-hood of hoses popping off or bursting.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 12:04 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
Yes, but it can also shorten the life of your hoses; i.e. increase the likely-hood of hoses popping off or bursting.
True but I wouldnt be wanting to put a rediculious amount of pressure from the cap. I was thinking realistically like 2 or 3 lbs more then factory. I dont know the temp difference per lbs of pressure but a friend of mine put a cap on his car and was running around 10 degrees different.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 01:37 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Triperformance
True but I wouldnt be wanting to put a rediculious amount of pressure from the cap. I was thinking realistically like 2 or 3 lbs more then factory. I dont know the temp difference per lbs of pressure but a friend of mine put a cap on his car and was running around 10 degrees different.
Sometimes it doesn't take much to push components over the edge. IMO, I would rather run a liquid which would require less pressure, rather than more pressure. I do plan to run Evans just for that reason.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 01:54 PM
  #38  
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Thats cool, that was my friends car though....I dont know how picky the 7 really is with that.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 01:58 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Triperformance
Thats cool, that was my friends car though....I dont know how picky the 7 really is with that.
Originally, the FD came with a 16 PSI cap. However, there were instances of hoses bursting and coolant is flamable. So with one of the recalls, the cap was moved to 13 PSI.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 06:41 AM
  #40  
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I see now, so the FD is a little picky with coolant pressures. I guess going with a thermostat that opens at a lower temp/ pressure would be a better way to go. Im still new to the FD but I'm glad the orgional poster found his correction. BTW the car I was speaking about was a civic with a b16a2 in it.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:17 AM
  #41  
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Your temps look fine , like people recommend put your undertray back on. A lower temp thermostat is a great idea. If you are paranoid like myself you can wire your fans to a manual switch, but I question the use of water wetter or Evans for that matter.

The Evans has been on the market long enough and the results seem average at best. To risky for me... As for water wetter, that stuff will crystallize on your seals over time.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 12:26 PM
  #42  
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didnt read thread but 90-100 is completely normal. ur buddy runs lower cause he either has the fan mod or his car was tuned to have fans come on earlier.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 12:56 PM
  #43  
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Looks like you've got your temps under control. Congrats!

I've taken personal data that shows that a second passenger side oil cooler is good for about 3 to 5C of lower coolant temps on my Power FC (mid Summer day, 105F+ ambient), not to mention the much lower oil operating temps. Also, my vented hood (Amemiya N1) improved cooling another 3C. These temps were recorded when moving, not in traffic.

Been running 16 lb cap now for 3 years with no adverse effects (although I'm pretty **** about hose maintenance). Several here in Phoenix have used Evans with very mixed results. Bottom line for me is that I want something I can add to or change out easily when on a road trip, so Evans is too inconvenient to convince me to change over. Again, JMO!
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