theorie

iTrader: (31)

So things have been going pretty well since the rebuild was completed. 220 miles on the motor now.

Anyway, the car is running pretty hot. Anywhere from 90c - 100c according to the PFC Commander (it's 27c outside right now).

My neighbor's FD is running in the low 80's right now, in this exact same weather. However, she has a vented hood.

I have a fluidyne aluminum radiator. The car seems to be running fine, just hot. Running 50/50 with 1/2 a bottle of WaterWetter.

We've already burped the system a few times so I don't think it's air bubbles. Thermoswitch maybe?

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Buy/borrow a Datalogit, set the fans to come on at 85C, and you should not see 90s again. That said, 90-100 is not especially abnormal.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Are you running a front mount intercooler? Also, is your undertray installed?

theorie

iTrader: (31)

no front mount, still stock IC.

no, the undertray is off bc i've been trying to check for coolant leaks. i guess the combination of not having the undertray on & also not having a vented hood = higher temps...

i know 90-100 isnt that bad. but it's been pretty cool out lately and i just found it strange that my neighbors FD (with a front mount) was running 10-20c cooler than mine.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

A vented hood is not really important (only a tiny percentage of FD owners have vented hoods) - however, running without an undertray is. Put it on and you will be fine.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

You are not running too hot. Those are normal temps.

rexhvn

+1

one600

I had the impression having no undertray will allow more cooling? So car will run hotter without the under tray?

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Yes.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

i have a drilled thermo, and water wetter, with a fluidyne rad and i see, 88-90 on the city, and about 90-91 maybe 92 depends on how fast im going.. but when i get to a light or off the highway it goes back down

caredden

iTrader: (148)

Follow moconnor's suggestion and get a datalogit to lower the temp on the fan settings...

one600

I also notice the water temp goes down when the aircon is on? shouldnt it be the opposite?

mr2foryou

I think both fans come on when the A/C is on. That's probably why.

Dee E.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Without the undertray, there is nothing to force the air into the radiator. Air will take the path of least resistance. So if you allow the air to flow down and under the car instead of through the radiator, it will.

G's 3rd Gen

iTrader: (11)

My water temps are 92 to 94c w/ out undertray. 88c w/. Have you "burped" bled all the air out of the coolant system whan you replaced the motor?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Everything effects your water temps. You can't just say that they are a certain number, because they vary enormously depending on different circumstances.

For example: Pretty much every FD (with an oem t-stat) is going to stay around 180 degrees when on a long freeway cruise on a cold night. In addition, every FD is going to heat up until the fans come on while stuck idling in traffic on a hot summer day.

You can't just say "my FD stays at "XXX" degrees. Its meaningless.

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

I took my A/C out, so if I turn on my air and have the "A/C" button on, my fans will always stay on. On a hot summer day, I won't see temps over 83*. Unfortunately, I think that is not the proper temp my engine is supposed to run at...

HawaiianRedMako

Put back the tray, it acts as a "funnel" to draw cool air and direct the hot air from the radiator out back under the car. I assume the termostat/switch are fine and no leaks? What temp is the temp switch set as? Fans are working?

If all the above are up to specs, then the problem may be with the rebuild. My first rebuilt engine was not done right. Apparently they did not properly mount the front bearing plate, it fell from position and was torqued. During breakin, about 400 miles, it was grinding and creating allot of heat. Temperature was running 195-200 F even with heator on!

Finally coolant seals blew and had to get a replacement. Had warranty for replacement engine, but had to remove and replace everything from the damaged engine and do the installation again. Not fun.

I hope you don't have that same issue. If all the other fixes don't bring the temp down, then replace your engine oil/filter at 250 miles. Check to see if there is a strong metalic shine, should be little. But if it shines like metal flake paint, then you may have the problem I had.

Use a magnetic core around your oil filter to trap metal particles. I think AMES sells it for about $40 or tape hard drive magnets around filter (temp use only)

theorie

iTrader: (31)

i put the under tray back on...temps are mid 80's to low 90's (Celsius).

there was also a small coolant leak at the lower rad hose (the hose clamp wasn't tight enough)

i only had the undertray off to check for leaks...now that it's back on the car is running cooler

HawaiianRedMako

Good to hear that? After all what I said to help you out....what a guy??? Nah...I wish there was a thread where unusual circumstantial situations/resolutions can be posted.

I got a few which could help someone else.

Anyways, keep that baby going and take it easy during breakin?

Lawrence

theorie

iTrader: (31)

i read your whole post...didn't know you expected a point-by-point reply.

the rebuild was done right. kevin @ rotary resurrection did it. the car has been running amazing except for that small heat issue...and now that is taken care of.

drove home to orlando tonight. farthest distance i've gone since the rebuild...151 miles exactly! drove at 85mph around 3k rpm the whole way and the temp didn't get above 87c once (it's a warm night too).

the motor now has a total of 370 miles on it and it just keeps getting smoother.

i'm going to do the magnet trick on the oil filter. i just need to pick up some strong magnets & duct tape tomorrow

one600

when the air con is on the water temp is stable around 88-90 degree cel, Is it possible to rewire the fans so that they both run without the aircon? I would think this would be even better than having a bigger rad in traffic with only 1 fan running?

ghost-rider

As far as I know both fans are running whenever the ecu turns them on. There are slow, medium and fast speeds but both fans run together. There are four relays on the passenger's side of the car, by the strut tower. The ecu activates the fans by grounding those relays in a certain order, depending on the required fan speed. When you turn on the a/c, the ecu skips the slow and the medium speeds and activates the fans at high speed. If there was a way to rewire the relays so that whenever the ecu sends the signal, fans will always turn on at high speed, I would do it. I wired a swich to the relays so I can turn them on at low or medium speeds manually, but it's not enough, especially in traffic, temps still go up higher than I like even with an FC thermoswitch.

I never knew that the undertray would make this much difference. I took mine off a while ago because it just doesn't work with my bumper, there is no possible place on the bumper to attach the undertray. After reading all of the posts above, I'm considering making my own undertray out of aluminium or something and just bolt it up to the frames. If this doesn't keep my temps down, next will be the drilling of the thermostat.

HawaiianRedMako

Good to hear that..watch how much you drill into the termostat. I think there is a limit of 1/8 total inch, but may be wrong. Don't remember what is the limit?

I got my fans rewired off the relays coupled to a manual switch. Works well, just need to remember to turn it off when parked. I'll add some LED indicator lights and hook it up next time.

ccanepa50

iTrader: (1)

50/50 is a a-way rich mix in my book, you are in Fla so why so rich, try 20 or 30% max coolant, hell, 100% water w/ water wetter is optimal...........+1 on the above comments