Car is only running on front rotor after build
#1
Car is only running on front rotor after build
So I'm pretty much finished a build and the car is starting but only running on the front rotor.
I have pulled the rear plugs and spark tested them and cheeks for fuel. There was definitely spark and definitely fuel yet it won't fire. Even with the front rotor running.
Yet oddly enough, I was told to increase the fuel pressure to see what happened and I was able to start it on just the rear rotor. (Front plugs unplugged). It ran for a bit then I killed it and hooked the front plugs back up, ran on 2 rotors for a bit then gave some throttle and when it came back down it sort of just sputtered and went back to one rotor.
I tried lowering the fuel pressure back to 43 psi and starting it and only the front rotor again. Back up to 60 and I couldn't get the rear to fire.
Don't know if it's relevant but on one rotor, it doesn't rev past 2k.
I'm quite sure the spark is okay as I have tested it numerous times. So that means the issue is fuel but I don't know how to check this quantitatively. Yes there is fuel on the plug but it obviously isn't firing.
Basically what I plan on doing is swapping the front and rear primaries to see if it's the actual injector that's the problem (leaking or otherwise) but they are brand new ID1000s. I will also replace the plugs for them to see if that help. Aside from that though I don't really know what to do.
Since I only have 1 day a week really where I can work on the car I try to make the most of it by gathering a list of things to try before hand instead of trying to figure out trouble shooting steps while I'm just standing there.
Engine is freshly built, ems is link G4, id1000 pri, 2000 sec, twin power ignition, single turbo, all that jazz.
Only encouraging thing I've read is that apparently with new cold plugs it can take a while for them to start firing. I might try just idling it for a while to see what happens. But other than that I don't know what steps to take
Edit: I will need to calibrate the trigger timing again, but the fact that the front rotor consistently fires and the rear *has* fired says that although it might need the trigger offset calibrated, this is NOT the reason it's not firing rotor 2
I have pulled the rear plugs and spark tested them and cheeks for fuel. There was definitely spark and definitely fuel yet it won't fire. Even with the front rotor running.
Yet oddly enough, I was told to increase the fuel pressure to see what happened and I was able to start it on just the rear rotor. (Front plugs unplugged). It ran for a bit then I killed it and hooked the front plugs back up, ran on 2 rotors for a bit then gave some throttle and when it came back down it sort of just sputtered and went back to one rotor.
I tried lowering the fuel pressure back to 43 psi and starting it and only the front rotor again. Back up to 60 and I couldn't get the rear to fire.
Don't know if it's relevant but on one rotor, it doesn't rev past 2k.
I'm quite sure the spark is okay as I have tested it numerous times. So that means the issue is fuel but I don't know how to check this quantitatively. Yes there is fuel on the plug but it obviously isn't firing.
Basically what I plan on doing is swapping the front and rear primaries to see if it's the actual injector that's the problem (leaking or otherwise) but they are brand new ID1000s. I will also replace the plugs for them to see if that help. Aside from that though I don't really know what to do.
Since I only have 1 day a week really where I can work on the car I try to make the most of it by gathering a list of things to try before hand instead of trying to figure out trouble shooting steps while I'm just standing there.
Engine is freshly built, ems is link G4, id1000 pri, 2000 sec, twin power ignition, single turbo, all that jazz.
Only encouraging thing I've read is that apparently with new cold plugs it can take a while for them to start firing. I might try just idling it for a while to see what happens. But other than that I don't know what steps to take
Edit: I will need to calibrate the trigger timing again, but the fact that the front rotor consistently fires and the rear *has* fired says that although it might need the trigger offset calibrated, this is NOT the reason it's not firing rotor 2
#3
Mitch- given the number of threads I have seen with you trying to start your car on this ECU, when are you just going to pull it out and install a PFC? It would be up and running in no time.
There is no need to have fuel pressure at 60psi to start a car.
There is no need to have fuel pressure at 60psi to start a car.
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
who did the rebuild?
Checked the compression on the rear rotor?
There should be no issues running a link g4 on an fd. Is it using a plugin harness, or link harness?
And what kind of plugs are you running? And is the map for a FD with your injectors and so on.
JT
Checked the compression on the rear rotor?
There should be no issues running a link g4 on an fd. Is it using a plugin harness, or link harness?
And what kind of plugs are you running? And is the map for a FD with your injectors and so on.
JT
#7
What was the solution for the start, run at 1500, then die?
That sounded to me like the ECU was only getting power while cranking?
What was the solution for the no spark issue?
Typically when I see a series of threads like this the issues are related. What modifications have you done to the engine harness?
That sounded to me like the ECU was only getting power while cranking?
What was the solution for the no spark issue?
Typically when I see a series of threads like this the issues are related. What modifications have you done to the engine harness?
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#8
rotary sensei
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If the PFC doesn't fix it check your grounds, the plug connections, the primary injectors and the plug wires to the front coil. If that doesn't pan out it could be the wiring harness.
#11
What was the solution for the start, run at 1500, then die?
That sounded to me like the ECU was only getting power while cranking?
What was the solution for the no spark issue?
Typically when I see a series of threads like this the issues are related. What modifications have you done to the engine harness?
That sounded to me like the ECU was only getting power while cranking?
What was the solution for the no spark issue?
Typically when I see a series of threads like this the issues are related. What modifications have you done to the engine harness?
No spark was fixed by cleaning off grounds I believe.
Mods to the harness are just a complete delete and de-pin of all things related to the twins and emissions. New injector clips were put on and I'm going to re-do those ASAP.
If the Pfc doesn't do the trick I'll try to track down another un-molested harness to try.
#12
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If you have spark, fuel, and compression, the issue is with the ecu or the tune. I vote for going with something proven like a PFC, Adaptronic, or Haltech. No one is really using Link these days for rotaries. A PFC is common enough that I bet you can borrow one locally to test it out.
#13
If you have spark, fuel, and compression, the issue is with the ecu or the tune. I vote for going with something proven like a PFC, Adaptronic, or Haltech. No one is really using Link these days for rotaries. A PFC is common enough that I bet you can borrow one locally to test it out.
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