3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Car is only running on front rotor after build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-20-14, 04:52 PM
  #1  
Brap..
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Mitchocalypse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Car is only running on front rotor after build

So I'm pretty much finished a build and the car is starting but only running on the front rotor.

I have pulled the rear plugs and spark tested them and cheeks for fuel. There was definitely spark and definitely fuel yet it won't fire. Even with the front rotor running.

Yet oddly enough, I was told to increase the fuel pressure to see what happened and I was able to start it on just the rear rotor. (Front plugs unplugged). It ran for a bit then I killed it and hooked the front plugs back up, ran on 2 rotors for a bit then gave some throttle and when it came back down it sort of just sputtered and went back to one rotor.
I tried lowering the fuel pressure back to 43 psi and starting it and only the front rotor again. Back up to 60 and I couldn't get the rear to fire.

Don't know if it's relevant but on one rotor, it doesn't rev past 2k.

I'm quite sure the spark is okay as I have tested it numerous times. So that means the issue is fuel but I don't know how to check this quantitatively. Yes there is fuel on the plug but it obviously isn't firing.

Basically what I plan on doing is swapping the front and rear primaries to see if it's the actual injector that's the problem (leaking or otherwise) but they are brand new ID1000s. I will also replace the plugs for them to see if that help. Aside from that though I don't really know what to do.

Since I only have 1 day a week really where I can work on the car I try to make the most of it by gathering a list of things to try before hand instead of trying to figure out trouble shooting steps while I'm just standing there.

Engine is freshly built, ems is link G4, id1000 pri, 2000 sec, twin power ignition, single turbo, all that jazz.

Only encouraging thing I've read is that apparently with new cold plugs it can take a while for them to start firing. I might try just idling it for a while to see what happens. But other than that I don't know what steps to take

Edit: I will need to calibrate the trigger timing again, but the fact that the front rotor consistently fires and the rear *has* fired says that although it might need the trigger offset calibrated, this is NOT the reason it's not firing rotor 2
Old 05-20-14, 05:16 PM
  #2  
GT3574R equipped

iTrader: (18)
 
HalifaxFD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Bedford, Nova Scotia
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Have you confirmed the plug wires are hooked up in the proper order. Just shooting ideas. I'd give Adam a call at rx7 specialists in Calgary for some advice, he's helped me out many times over the years and haven't steered me wrong yet. Good luck.
Old 05-21-14, 07:03 AM
  #3  
Rotary Specialists
RX7Club Vendor
iTrader: (11)
 
Banzai-Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,826
Received 309 Likes on 180 Posts
Mitch- given the number of threads I have seen with you trying to start your car on this ECU, when are you just going to pull it out and install a PFC? It would be up and running in no time.

There is no need to have fuel pressure at 60psi to start a car.
Old 05-21-14, 03:29 PM
  #4  
Rotary Enthusiast

 
jantore's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Norway
Posts: 912
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
who did the rebuild?

Checked the compression on the rear rotor?

There should be no issues running a link g4 on an fd. Is it using a plugin harness, or link harness?

And what kind of plugs are you running? And is the map for a FD with your injectors and so on.

JT
Old 05-21-14, 03:34 PM
  #5  
Brap..
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Mitchocalypse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
Mitch- given the number of threads I have seen with you trying to start your car on this ECU, when are you just going to pull it out and install a PFC? It would be up and running in no time.

There is no need to have fuel pressure at 60psi to start a car.
Yeah true I've tracked down a Pfc to try out this weekend.
If it works I'll just get another one of those
Old 05-21-14, 03:36 PM
  #6  
Brap..
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Mitchocalypse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by jantore
who did the rebuild?

Checked the compression on the rear rotor?

There should be no issues running a link g4 on an fd. Is it using a plugin harness, or link harness?

And what kind of plugs are you running? And is the map for a FD with your injectors and so on.

JT
Banzai built it, it has 0 km, gives strong even pulses when a plug is removed. Compression isn't the issue.

It's the plug in one with original harness with most everything deleted and yeah it's set up for my injectors and everything.

I'm hoping a Pfc fixes it
Old 05-21-14, 04:51 PM
  #7  
Rotary Specialists
RX7Club Vendor
iTrader: (11)
 
Banzai-Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,826
Received 309 Likes on 180 Posts
What was the solution for the start, run at 1500, then die?

That sounded to me like the ECU was only getting power while cranking?

What was the solution for the no spark issue?

Typically when I see a series of threads like this the issues are related. What modifications have you done to the engine harness?
Old 05-21-14, 05:11 PM
  #8  
rotary sensei

iTrader: (5)
 
Mr rx-7 tt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse
Banzai built it, it has 0 km, gives strong even pulses when a plug is removed. Compression isn't the issue.
If Banzai built it the engine isn't an issue.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse
It's the plug in one with original harness with most everything deleted and yeah it's set up for my injectors and everything.

I'm hoping a Pfc fixes it
If the PFC doesn't fix it check your grounds, the plug connections, the primary injectors and the plug wires to the front coil. If that doesn't pan out it could be the wiring harness.
Old 05-21-14, 05:38 PM
  #9  
Rotary Specialists
RX7Club Vendor
iTrader: (11)
 
Banzai-Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4,826
Received 309 Likes on 180 Posts
The wiring harness was the direction I was going.
Old 05-22-14, 08:05 AM
  #10  
the mazda zoom zoom store

 
zayrx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Columbus, Oh
Posts: 749
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
you need to add at least 30% fuel with your fuel set up
Old 05-22-14, 12:25 PM
  #11  
Brap..
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Mitchocalypse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
What was the solution for the start, run at 1500, then die?

That sounded to me like the ECU was only getting power while cranking?

What was the solution for the no spark issue?

Typically when I see a series of threads like this the issues are related. What modifications have you done to the engine harness?
For the 1500rpm issue, I basically just unplugged some things and took out the injectors to test them (or rather just make sure they're clicking) as well as test the wires for continuity from the ecu and correct voltages. I hooked it all back up and it worked. No clue what the problem was..

No spark was fixed by cleaning off grounds I believe.

Mods to the harness are just a complete delete and de-pin of all things related to the twins and emissions. New injector clips were put on and I'm going to re-do those ASAP.

If the Pfc doesn't do the trick I'll try to track down another un-molested harness to try.
Old 05-26-14, 11:37 PM
  #12  
Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
 
IRPerformance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 11,347
Received 317 Likes on 190 Posts
If you have spark, fuel, and compression, the issue is with the ecu or the tune. I vote for going with something proven like a PFC, Adaptronic, or Haltech. No one is really using Link these days for rotaries. A PFC is common enough that I bet you can borrow one locally to test it out.
Old 05-27-14, 10:50 AM
  #13  
Brap..
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Mitchocalypse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by IRPerformance
If you have spark, fuel, and compression, the issue is with the ecu or the tune. I vote for going with something proven like a PFC, Adaptronic, or Haltech. No one is really using Link these days for rotaries. A PFC is common enough that I bet you can borrow one locally to test it out.
Yeah I robbed a pfc from a friends car and have someone locally with a datalogit so I'll just rip out on Friday and throw a map on it and see what happens.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
rotor_veux
Build Threads
46
06-12-18 10:39 AM
Marty RE
New Member RX-7 Technical
0
08-13-15 11:19 AM



Quick Reply: Car is only running on front rotor after build



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:28 PM.