Waterpump install question
12-28-04, 09:10 AM
#1
Potato Love
Thread Starter
Waterpump install question
I replaced the waterpump gasket last week to stop my coolant leak. It got dark, and I did most of the work with a flashlight. Do the bolts get washers? I also replaced my turbo coolant lines while I was digging around. The leak isn't as bad, but still slowly leaks from the area where the metering lines bolt to the water pump. Remove washers and put the fasteners back in? I saw the craftsman floodlights on sale at sears, and invested in them.
12-28-04, 12:46 PM
#2
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The nuts go with the washers... the flat ones first then the split ones after... meaning 2 washers per nut. The bolts dont need washers. And nothing bolts right to the waterpump... you must be talking about the waterpump housing. And I'm still not sure about which leak you're talknig about..metering lines?
Jeremy
Jeremy
12-28-04, 05:45 PM
#3
Originally Posted by Larz
still slowly leaks from the area where the metering lines bolt to the water pump.
Larz, your problem is the reason I generally use silicone gasket maker when installing a new gasket. Nevertheless, if the leak point is a bolt (as opposed to a nut), try pulling the bolt and applying silicone sealant into the opening and then reinstalling the bolt.
If not, you may need to start over and use silicone gasket maker sealant on the gasket. Messy, but it generally does the trick.
12-28-04, 09:00 PM
#4
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ohh the shileded wires on a bracket connected to the bottom of the water pump? NOW I know what you mean... Yeah when my gasket gave out... that was where the leak was too. Just make sure you tighten it to proper tq. specs. You should be fine without the sealant. Just make sure you have it tight or to proper tq. specs!
Jeremy
Jeremy
05-22-07, 09:45 PM
#6
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I replaced the waterpump gasket last week to stop my coolant leak. It got dark, and I did most of the work with a flashlight. Do the bolts get washers? I also replaced my turbo coolant lines while I was digging around. The leak isn't as bad, but still slowly leaks from the area where the metering lines bolt to the water pump. Remove washers and put the fasteners back in? I saw the craftsman floodlights on sale at sears, and invested in them.
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05-23-07, 02:39 PM
#8
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When ever the water pump gets replaced 9 times out of 10 the gasket from the housing to the front of the motor gets damaged. When the water pump is put back on you will typically get a leak in that area and while you don't see any leaking from the top it will show up in the area you mentioned.
05-23-07, 03:30 PM
#9
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No real way to avoid it. The water pump gasket holds pretty well to the housing so when you start pulling and prying on the pump the housing moves as well. What makes it near impossible is that you have to remove the nuts on the studs that go through the water pump and housing to get the water pump off the housing, this is where the gasket gets damaged and most people don't realize it. When I do a water pump I plan on pulling the housing as well just because of this. I make my own gaskets so it's no big deal, luckily the water pump doesn't fail very often unless you run too much tension on the water pump belt. The other thing most people over look is the thin metal shim that go's between the water pump housing and front of the engine.
05-23-07, 04:06 PM
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umm so basically i ll hold the housing while i pry dat off i guess i ll figure something outt but thanks for heads up! i think i am good to go now, i got all the info i need for this and other stuff thank you soo much your awsome!!
05-23-07, 04:17 PM
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This may help on things to watch for.
05-24-07, 07:26 AM
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What I'm saying is there are IIRC 5 or 6 studs as well as the bolts that hold the water pump to the water pump housing. You have to remove the nuts from these studs in order to remove the water pump and when these nut are removed this leaves the whole water pump housing loose to move around. if you look to the left in the picture you'll see three holes by them selves, this is the gasket that get damaged and overlooked in the water pump removal and replacement, in order to replace the gaske all the studs have to be removed or you'll never be able to work on the gasket surfaces. The bottom hole of the series of three is also known to leak a very small amount of coolant as it goes into a water passage so I put silicone sealant on the threads of this stud. When you remove the three studs on the right side of the housing you'll not I circled a place where a thin shimm is found, you will loose this shim and never notice it fell off (unless your lucky and it sticks to the housing or face of the motor) what makes the shim important is how you tighten up the stud nuts if it's missing. If you tighten up the nuts on the studs where the shim goes first you will pull (****) the water pump housing to the front of the motor gasket mating surface and this wil create a small gap at the housing and create a leak.
05-25-07, 12:54 AM
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oh man f**k.. k i know what ur talkin bout! i already put the whole thing back! i ll take it look in the morning to see if the shims r anywhere on the ground or arund the block! i ll try to see if they are already on the housing
05-06-14, 07:44 AM
#16
When ever the water pump gets replaced 9 times out of 10 the gasket from the housing to the front of the motor gets damaged. When the water pump is put back on you will typically get a leak in that area and while you don't see any leaking from the top it will show up in the area you mentioned.
No real way to avoid it. The water pump gasket holds pretty well to the housing so when you start pulling and prying on the pump the housing moves as well. What makes it near impossible is that you have to remove the nuts on the studs that go through the water pump and housing to get the water pump off the housing, this is where the gasket gets damaged and most people don't realize it. When I do a water pump I plan on pulling the housing as well just because of this. I make my own gaskets so it's no big deal, luckily the water pump doesn't fail very often unless you run too much tension on the water pump belt. The other thing most people over look is the thin metal shim that go's between the water pump housing and front of the engine.
What I'm saying is there are IIRC 5 or 6 studs as well as the bolts that hold the water pump to the water pump housing. You have to remove the nuts from these studs in order to remove the water pump and when these nut are removed this leaves the whole water pump housing loose to move around. if you look to the left in the picture you'll see three holes by them selves, this is the gasket that get damaged and overlooked in the water pump removal and replacement, in order to replace the gaske all the studs have to be removed or you'll never be able to work on the gasket surfaces. The bottom hole of the series of three is also known to leak a very small amount of coolant as it goes into a water passage so I put silicone sealant on the threads of this stud. When you remove the three studs on the right side of the housing you'll not I circled a place where a thin shimm is found, you will loose this shim and never notice it fell off (unless your lucky and it sticks to the housing or face of the motor) what makes the shim important is how you tighten up the stud nuts if it's missing. If you tighten up the nuts on the studs where the shim goes first you will pull (****) the water pump housing to the front of the motor gasket mating surface and this wil create a small gap at the housing and create a leak.
No real way to avoid it. The water pump gasket holds pretty well to the housing so when you start pulling and prying on the pump the housing moves as well. What makes it near impossible is that you have to remove the nuts on the studs that go through the water pump and housing to get the water pump off the housing, this is where the gasket gets damaged and most people don't realize it. When I do a water pump I plan on pulling the housing as well just because of this. I make my own gaskets so it's no big deal, luckily the water pump doesn't fail very often unless you run too much tension on the water pump belt. The other thing most people over look is the thin metal shim that go's between the water pump housing and front of the engine.
What I'm saying is there are IIRC 5 or 6 studs as well as the bolts that hold the water pump to the water pump housing. You have to remove the nuts from these studs in order to remove the water pump and when these nut are removed this leaves the whole water pump housing loose to move around. if you look to the left in the picture you'll see three holes by them selves, this is the gasket that get damaged and overlooked in the water pump removal and replacement, in order to replace the gaske all the studs have to be removed or you'll never be able to work on the gasket surfaces. The bottom hole of the series of three is also known to leak a very small amount of coolant as it goes into a water passage so I put silicone sealant on the threads of this stud. When you remove the three studs on the right side of the housing you'll not I circled a place where a thin shimm is found, you will loose this shim and never notice it fell off (unless your lucky and it sticks to the housing or face of the motor) what makes the shim important is how you tighten up the stud nuts if it's missing. If you tighten up the nuts on the studs where the shim goes first you will pull (****) the water pump housing to the front of the motor gasket mating surface and this wil create a small gap at the housing and create a leak.
Is there still a 90% chance of a front cover leak when I R&R the waterpump ?
My waterpump bearing seals are leaking (leaking at the weep holes)
Question, on the housing that has two square-like coolant openings (circled in green), is there a metal gasket that replaces the non-metal one (N386-15-162) ?
BTW: Instead of a silicone sealant that could block coolant (or oil) passages, I use an anaerobic sealant like Loctite 574.
Thanks,
:-) neil
05-06-14, 08:25 AM
#18
RX-7 Bad Ass
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Hey Neil!
First off, I didn't know there was a metal water pump gasket
. Live and learn.
If you change the water pump, it WILL NOT affect the front cover gasket at all. You shouldn't have to touch it. You do NOT want to do a front cover gasket, if you do, pull the engine. You'll be time ahead, seriously. It's an absolute bitch to do in the car.
Now, the gasket between the water pump housing and the block, I've always used the paper gasket and the metal shim spacer on the other 2 studs. Never had any problems. LIGHT coat of grey RTV and good to go.
When you remove the water pump you may have the water pump housing to engine gasket pull free. If the gasket was recently installed, you will probably be OK, but if it's ancient it's possible the gasket will break in half and not seal back up.
At DGRR this year my buddy Jon's water pump seized up, NEVER seen that before. No warning or anything. We had to replace it on the side of the road, and didn't pull the water pump housing. His engine was built about 2 years ago (by me) and the water pump housing did pull free, but it pushed back into place, sealed up, and got him through a few passes on the Dragon and an 8 hour drive home no problem.
So, long story short, it's a good idea to replace the water pump housing gasket as well when doing a water pump, but that does make for some more work on the job. It's still not too bad, a nice Saturday afternoon and it's done.
Dale
First off, I didn't know there was a metal water pump gasket
. Live and learn.If you change the water pump, it WILL NOT affect the front cover gasket at all. You shouldn't have to touch it. You do NOT want to do a front cover gasket, if you do, pull the engine. You'll be time ahead, seriously. It's an absolute bitch to do in the car.
Now, the gasket between the water pump housing and the block, I've always used the paper gasket and the metal shim spacer on the other 2 studs. Never had any problems. LIGHT coat of grey RTV and good to go.
When you remove the water pump you may have the water pump housing to engine gasket pull free. If the gasket was recently installed, you will probably be OK, but if it's ancient it's possible the gasket will break in half and not seal back up.
At DGRR this year my buddy Jon's water pump seized up, NEVER seen that before. No warning or anything. We had to replace it on the side of the road, and didn't pull the water pump housing. His engine was built about 2 years ago (by me
) and the water pump housing did pull free, but it pushed back into place, sealed up, and got him through a few passes on the Dragon and an 8 hour drive home no problem.So, long story short, it's a good idea to replace the water pump housing gasket as well when doing a water pump, but that does make for some more work on the job. It's still not too bad, a nice Saturday afternoon and it's done.
Dale
05-06-14, 08:26 AM
#19
Whoops, the proper metal gasket for the front cover is: N390-10-502 or N390-10-5020
90-95 Cosmo Steel Front Cover Gasket (N390-10-502)
Front Engine Parts, Counterweights, Pulleys
:-) neil
90-95 Cosmo Steel Front Cover Gasket (N390-10-502)
Front Engine Parts, Counterweights, Pulleys
:-) neil
05-06-14, 08:27 AM
#20
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Those 2 circled hoses should be fine, they have a long life. I would inspect them for swelling or tearing, but I don't think you'll have any issues. If you do see one that looks sketchy, you can replace them with the water pump all installed no big deal.
05-27-14, 11:26 AM
#22
When I removed the FD's waterpump, I had used the paper one, NOT an RX8 metal one.
There is NO METAL GASKET for the FD's waterpump.
Check out the pics, and you'll the difference highlighted.
I'll use the paper gasket with either Hylomar or a Loctite anerobic sealant, both of which are non-hardening so it can't plug up any passages.
:-) neil
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