Of all the things I've been able to break, remove, or adjust on this car I can not get the downpipe off. I can see the 4 bolts but I don't have a 14mm crescent wrench to try and get them off because I can't fit a socket around them because they're so tight to the pipe. I did get a socket on the easy bolt(top front), but I couldn't get it loose. So what do I do? Should I take it to a shop? Or is there a trick to this? I hit 'em with PB hard.

 

hmmm thats weird i think mine was a 16 or 17 from what i remember....try a straight piece of metal on the wrentch like a chissel and then hammer it to break it loose.

 

uhg. Well my car is almost in running order so I reckon Ill just bolt it together with the DP and take it to chuck or some other shop and they should be able to do it for a semi-reasonable fee im sure.

 

bring it over i'll kick that downpipe off im near sf

 

Stock hardware is 14mm. Replacement hardware is usually 16 or 17mm heads.

Maybe it will help if you go buy one of those extra-long box wrenches. Then you can fit it over the nut and tap the wrench with a hammer.

Dave

 

After I get off work today Ill recheck all the bolts and make a trip to the hardware store. Ive got to get this DP off, get the precat on, go pass emissions while getting my DP coated, wrap the dp, get the precat off, get the dp back on and midpipe(but thats a breeze). I hate your emissions testing, California! You hear me?!

 

Is this a stock pre-cat or actual downpipe? I find it odd that you can't get a socket on if the stock nut/studs were used, as these are a flanged (14mm) nut that is actually BIGGER on the flange diameter than what sockets are. So if the nut is on, a socket HAS to go on.
Downpipe installation/removal has never seemed that difficult to me, the worst thing is trying to keep the gasket in place whilst you bolt the thing up. I'll do FIVE downpipes in place of ONE fuel filter....lol!

Barban...we need more info on those bolts/nuts so we can help you out!

 

mmm well im not wholly sure what im working with but heres my best guess

its definitely an aftermarket downpipe and appears to be one of decent quality(read not ebay crap)
but im pretty sure its using the stock studs and 14mm nuts. It is not a bolt. Ill go grab pictures.

 

 

I sucked it up and went under there again to see what all was going on. The only nut I can get a socket on(not with wrench) is the easy one. So I'm in the market for probably about 4 variations of a 14mm crescent wrench(one for each nut)

Also, does anyone recognize this DP? Its got a weld right after it exits the engine bay. The flanges seem large and the DP seems old(at least from 2002) so im thinking its one of the nicer ones. Its not JDM because its not all crushed looking. Im thinking about selling it so I can match my exhaust system in the hope of the "perfect" fit. In any case when I get this sucker out if I do not(and probably wont) sell it im gonna get it coated and then wrap it. Im stoked.

 

I assume you are going at it from below the car? (Not sure there is any other way?). Hmm mine was rather easy to get off when I removed the turbos...I had no trouble at all getting a ratchet in there.

 

Yeah, attacking it from all angles. 3 of the studs are easy to reach but the top one towards the rear of the bay is the toughy. I think the whole reason this is being a headache is because its using the stock studs. A nice flat bolt head would be easy to get at but these raides studs and nuts are really not cooperating.

 

goto sears and buy half size wrenches meaning that they are half the lenth of the normal wrench. If you dont want to do that cut one of your wrenches in half and go from there. You might have to attach the wrench and get somthing so you can hammer the wrench to break the bolts loose. They also make thin walled sockets.

 

ah btw dont use the open ended side of the wrenches on these bolts you'll just round them off and then thats even more fun.

 

You can probably pass smog with the downpipe on, as long as the main cat is still on the car. I passed with my DP on. It's so cramped in there that most smog techs won't notice that the precat is gone.

 

I also passed with an HKS downpipe. Your downpipe wont attract attention since its not shiny and chrome.

 

15 min. with me and that DP would be on the ground.

Need the right tools. Swivel head rackets, various size extensions, six point sockets both long and regular, swivel 6 point sockets....etc, etc...

 

I might be missing something here, but did you try to get a boxed-end wrench on it? I took the bolts out of mine using this method with another one hooked on the end to give more leverage and had no problem. The downpipe on my cars looks almost exactly like yours.

Joe

 

What kind of socket will fit those bolts? Doesn't the other side of the DP get in the way? (Ie, not enough space to put the socket over the bolt?)

I'm looking for a set of ultra narrow sockets (I know they must exist, else how do they get those bolts on there??)

jp

 

These nuts are extended shoulder 14mm flanged nuts. A regular 3/8" drive 14mm 6 point with a 1" extension and flex head ratchet is the weapon of choice to start off with. Have ready the open end combo wrench and a 14mm universal socket. After they are ran off for some distance, then a 14mm gear wrench flex head is brought in. It all deals with the angles that the tool has to work around.

Experience with looking at a job and calling out the proper tool comes with age and time spent "wrenching". Over the years I have amassed a large arsenal of tools and even custom tools I have made to get the job done.

Other tricks are : Don't just force a nut or bolt to come off, try to go both ways to loosen it up if it's stubborn - tighten/loosen.
Take a long punch with a 1/4" flat end and tap on the fastener on a couple flats to break the hold.
PB blaster works wonders - stick a cotten ball on top of the fastener and soak the ball good to keep it wet for a time to help break it loose.
A little heat from the small torch ( not cherry red ) will help break it loose. Got to watch for any fire hazard.

 

Two of the bolts/nuts/studs are actually at a zero tolerance with the piping and so it would be physicaly impossible to get any kind of socket on them. But the wrenches will be my savior. I know I could maybe pass emissions with the DP, but I need to get it off to get it jet-hotted and wrapped.

Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it,
Dave

 

hm what tool is everyone using for the top rear nut

is a box end wrench deep enough to clear the curve of the dp/precat?

will this work? http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

this has to be the most difficult thing ive tried to do on the fd lol

 

In order to get better access, best to remove the rear y-pipe tube. It comes off easily.

 

top rear is stuck like a #*$()@$

access is no problem with the intake pipe to the 2ndaries off and y pipe front and rear moved aside (thanks adam)

i've been soaking it in pb the last 2 days and its the last one i need to get off, the others were pretty OK this one won't budge.

edit: im using ~14 inch bar on a 12 pt box end wrench. the arm is bending and the teetch on teh wrench are digging into the nut enough to leave marks. im out of ideas lol

 

Barban,

It's ashame you are out there now instead of here or I'd come do it. I won't be in your neck neck of the woods (Las Gatos/Campbell) for another couple months.
So try this...

1) Pb blaster the nuts a couple times during the day and let it soak in.
2) If you can't get a box end around the nut try a high quaility open end wrench...Can't stress high quality enough. (Snap on or Sears craftmans at worse.)

I have always been able to get them off dp's.

Good luck...