i hope he already figured it out, its been over 9 months. im just using this thread for my own purposes now

 

use a 14mm deep socket with a ratchet from up top,works everytime.Just remove all the piping and abs shield.

 

I also hope he didn't actually wrap a coated DP, there was a thread with some really useful information on why NOT to do that a little while back...

 

Man, I feel sorry for all you guys working on your backs under the car.

And doing several downpipes over one fuel filter? LOL!!! The fuel filter took me like 15 min with the car on the lift!

 

the nut is starting to round off of on 1 of the edges. makes me wonder how this is possible with a 12 pt socket.

any more ideas guys? i'd hate to have to drill it out b/c i don't have the equipment for it

edit:

im going to try until it rounds out completely. the thing has been sitting in pb blaster for the past 48hrs+ and hasn't budged. if that doesn't work i'm going to use a dremel to cut off the nut.. anyone think this is a bad idea?

 

Use a 6 pt socket.

 

Oh jeez don't use a 12pt. 6pt all the way.

Dave

 

If you can't get the nut off, cutting it with a dremmel may be the next option. Make sure that you don't hack up the stud. Maybe try to cut a slice in the nut, so that you can "crack "it open, and then unbolt it.

 

yeah, don't use 12 point. 6 points grip more of the sides.

you got a torch? try some heat. We use the oxy-acetylene torches are work sometimes. heat just the nut so it will expand. although, may be a little difficult down there on the downpipe.

 

access isn't a problem but i have no equipment like that. just hand tools.

i've always had issues with 6 points killing nuts / bolt heads for some reason so i use 12 pt now when i can.

i just tried a 6 point deep socket but it ended up causing more rounding. while using it i thought i broke the nut loose but it was just the socket slipping

the 12 point is still getting a ton of grip im just concerned that the markings on the nut will get worse.

so i've tried tapping the nut with a hammer to see if it will help break loose but no luck.

adam, thats what i was thinking regarding the dremel. only aiming the thing will be tough so i dont get the stud i'll probably end up ruining the threading.

now im curious about the 6pt vs 12pt... i'd always assumed 12 pt was preferred. anyone with horror stories about 12pt sockets?

 

umm..this thread is almost 1 year old
and did barban ever sell his fd?

 

Well it's quite simple really. 12pts are fine for new and tight tolerance fasteners, but for these you need all the positive grip you can get.

Definitely forget about the threads on the stud. Do what you need to do to get the stud out. The nut and stud are probably galled together, which basically means they are cold welded together.

I had a bugger of a time with one once, rounded the nut some, and used a grinder to make 2 flats that I could put a regular open-ended wrench on. I took my time and made sure the fit between the wrench and flats was as close as possible.

 

heat it up-red hot - it will come off - that is how they remove those stubborn mufflers. Needless to say wear gloves

 

yup, im the new owner of Dave's old car. She's had a lot of work done to her and when it's all done im gonna post it all up showing the car. T04R, rebuild, and all other goodies.

 

quick question is the turbo heatshield removable w/o taking off the turbo? if so top or bottom thanks

 

this is terrible the 3 pieces seem to be melted together is this possible? (nut + doubled ended threaded stud + dp)

 

They aren't welded together, the rust will make it look that way though. You really only have a few options:

1) PB blaster and some luck (sounds like yours ran out unfortunately)
2) Heat, get the nut cherry red, then break it loose.
3) Cut it off, chances are the stud won't be salvagble anyway and i'd assume new ones from ray at malloy won't be that expensive.

It sounds like option 3 will be the best for you, just cut it off and deal with it later.

 

i should have added a bit more detail. i've already started cutting and that ^^^ was what i found. for example, theres no delineation between the flat surface of the nut where it contacts the surface of the precat. ( i sliced ~2mm into the precat flange surface)

if this doesn't work out i'm taking it to a shop for some professional removal

 

im have a problem on my friends car too...... the exhuast hangers are basically baked.... so we cant get the main cat off without taking off the whole exhaust..... and we cant take off the whole exhuast without taking off the pre-cat....

we got all the bolts off and stuff.... the pre-cat comes off all the way untill the end of the studs and then the chassis is in the way.... unless we cut off 1/2in. off the stud (no way in hell were gna do this)... we cant take it off... it just hits the chassis

HELP haha... the only remedy i can think of is take off the main cat and take off the pre-cat at a angle.... but as i said before.... we CANT take off the main cat.... so were stuck :[

 

well now the stud is completely messed up and clumps of the nut are still stuck to it and the precat. is there a way to create my own threads at put on a smaller nut? some kind of tool or is it something that a shop can do easily. i'd hate to have to get the stud out, b/c if the nut + outer 1/2 of stud + precat flange were all stuck together i can only imagine how stuck the inner 1/2 of the stud is. meaning i'd probably have to drill the thing out and install some helicoil device... meaning.. i'd have to pull the entire turbo.. which probably won't happen either since some other nuts are probably seized as well.... DAMN the fun never ends

im almost at the point where im just going to toss on the 3 studs/nuts i've already taken off and reassemble the parts i've removed just so i don't have to worry getting the precat off.

 

Take it to a shop, and they'll weld something to the stud that can be wrenched off.

What you're describing of the nut/stud is typical of galling - galling is the cold welding of the nut and stud. If you cut directly thru it, they won't separate because they are fused together. You might see tiny cavities left by the thread roots but that's really it. Fortunately the manifold and stud don't gall since they are dissimilar metals. But that doesn't mean they separate easily either.

JHhew84, if you're bored call your local dealer for a price on those studs and nuts. Last I checked, Malloy was moving them at $10/ea. That's $80 in hardware for the downpipe-turbo connection alone, plus the $110 gasket.

Dave

 

update for u guys!



oh man im excited

 

everything is back on minus 1 stud/nut im missing.

so ive heard a few owners are using regular bolts from a hardware store instead of the stock stud/bolt set. anyone know if theres a particular type of bolt needed to withstand the heat of the dp or is any plain steel piece going to be okay. and as far as size/length and thread pattern?

also, antiseize.. how necessary is this and what type is best?

 

old thread

i'm currently mounting a pettit racing dp on my 93. i'm pretty sure those studs are there to make the job easier when it comes to reinstalling. if you're doing the job by yourself i'm sure its easier to hang the dp on the studs for easy mounting.

i've actually had a painless removal from the turbos but the studs that hold the precat to the maincat are kicking my ***. they are gonna soak in liquid wrench over night and hopefully just slide right off we'll see

 

Surprised no one mentioned a torch...torch is always your friend. Its what you pick up when your a Mechanic in a state that uses to much salt in winter (Illinois)