A creative way I avoided that entire pipe mess:

 

From the pic, it looks like you moved the two solenoids outside the rat hole all together.

I wonder why Mazda didn't do more of this themselves.

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OK so far, I have replaced about 60% of the hoses.

Because the screws holding the rack in place are rounded I decided I would wait until I remove the engine to remove the solenoid rack.

This is also why I decided to leave the hoses that are attached tight to the solenoids (on the rack) alone. I did not want to take a chance of breaking any of the solenoids and then not being able to get them out.

BTW, none of those hoses were hard, loose, or visibly damaged. The one that was loose was replaced.

The engine accessories and the UIM have been reinstalled and I will replace the air box and start the car tomorrow.

Before I put the airbox in, I will look into the "cheap bastard" box modification.

 

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NOTES:

I wouldn't recommend anyone do this job unless there is a problem that needs solving.

When I found that I couldn't get the rack out, I thought about cutting it out and then getting a new one to replace it. Mazda wants > $600 for the new rack.

 

BLKTOPTRVL, you know that if you really want to get the rack out, you can just unbolt it from where it mounts to the engine. You'll have to remove the fuel lines but then you'll get the whole thing out and you can replace the screws with hex/allen bolts.

 

A mill file + vise grips on the phillips head screws will easily remove them.

 

Maybe next time.

I needed to reassemble the car before the end of this week - I am taking a new job and have to be there (400 miles away) soon.

Although I will not take this car with me, I don't want to leave home for six months while the car is disassembled. (By the time I get back home, I am sure I would not remember what went where.)

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Results:

The good news...

My spike on transition seems to be gone.

It was spiking to 14+ lbs on transition and that is the reason I wanted to do this hose job.

I had the profec set to low boost for the past few months because of this and anytime I tried to use the high boost setting (almost totally turned counter-clockwise) I would get the spike.

Now, on the high boost setting, I am boosting 11 lbs (indicated) with no spike apparent.

I must check the profec settings (I thought I had it in overboost mode) because any setting more than slightly off total counter-clockwise gives me too much boost.

After I check the profec tomorrow, I will try to get an official boost pattern reading.

The bad news...

The idle is terrible - constantly poping and running rough enough to vibrate the car.

 

Also I am getting a hell of a lot of black/grey smoke on hard launch.

 

If your vacuum is ok, reset the ECU.

It's usually a good idea to reset it after working on the car for a while.

 

Vacuum at 800 idle is around 14-15

How do you reset the computer?

What will reseting the computer do if the vacuum is only so-so?

 

Is it a stock or ported motor?

To reset the computer, pull the negative terminal off the battery and then press the brake pedal for about 15 seconds. Reconnect the battery cable and that should do it.

Nope, which is why I was asking about your vacuum. Resetting the ECU shouldn't change that.

 

Stock (as far as I know).

OK. I'll give it a go. It does have 97K on the car... I don't know what is on the engine.

 

See sig...

 

Follow-up.

• The transition spike is definitly gone
• The engine runs smoother during acceleration runs
• The throttle response is much better
• It no longer bucks when transitioning between power on and off coasting
• It no longer gives one last exhaust pop when shut down
• It feels stronger, but not at it's best

After reseting the computer

• I don't notice as big a cloud of smoke on hard launch - this may be my imagination - or the time of day, but it looks better
• The idle is smoother, but not yet like glass. Note: My 94 has never idled as well as my 88
• The vacuum reading is closer to 16 today (when idling @ 800 RPM with no accessories running), but then again the idle reading at idle seems to vary greatly depending on environmental conditions.

Thanks Mahjik for the tip on the computer reset.

My next tasks are to get the idle to return to 800 without long delays and to replace the A/C condensor (A/C stopped working last spring).