Can the throttle body and UIM be removed as a unit?

 

It can be, as long as you have small enough hands to reach behind it all and unplug everything you can do it. It is just much simpler to pull it one piece at a time, especially with the coolant lines to the throttle body.

 

not really... Unplug the vac. lines going to the back of manifold... one going from the sensor by the brake booster... couple from the bottom... undo all the connecotrs... then the vac. lines in the front... mark them all so you know where they go... undo the coolant lines one under the TB and on by the firewall. one vac line to the double throttle... then undo the bolts... on the intake manifold... tape that sucker to make sure you don't drop anything down there... oh... the elbow comes off first....

 

The short answer, yes it can.

 

OK, I took the time to remove the TB. But what I read above scares me...

The UIM is now unbolted, I will wait for tomorrow (daylight) to try to remove the vacuum and electrical connections so I can detach the UIM.

My concern now is that I have huge hands without a great amount of dexterity.

Do I have to get my hands all the way under the UIM before I can lift it off?

 

You'll have a little slack to lift the UIM up and tilt it towards the cockpit so you can get at the plugs underneath it. Make sure you disconnect the vacuum lines on the front before you begin to lift it.

 

Thats the only way i take mine off, of course I have a single turbo and no solenoids under there... No coolant going to the throttle body, and most of the sensors on the UIM removed....

I take mine off with the UIM, TB and Elbow attached

 

Thanks, I'll get into it tomorrow. If it is that tight under there, how do you get to ziptie the hoses to the nipples?

At this point, I have also left the alternator in place. I am guesing that once the UIM is tilted and the alt is removed, a lot more room is available.

 

The vacuum lines are on the front and rear of the UIM. What connects on the bottom is the wiring connection for the Air Intake Thermosensor. No need to remove the alternator unless you just want to (or you are changing your thermoswitch)....

 

It can be done but I wouldn't recommend it until you've removed them seperately a few times to be certain you know where everything is.

4 vac lines on front of UIM, 3 vac lines on back of UIM, the AWS sensor plug under UIM, the AIT under the UIM, brake booster hose at end of UIM, ground connection at end of UIM, turbo precontrol and wastegate solenoids on front of UIM, TPS sensor on throttle body, upper throttle body coolant hose, lower throttle body coolant hose, accelerator cable, cruise control cable (if equipped).

Did I miss anything?

 

Idle Speed Control (ISC) solenoid, vacuum line to BOV, vacuum line to boost gauge... and some nuts and bolts of course

 

My God!!! What a mess.

This is more than a little scary when you look at the job ahead.

I purchased the car 4 years ago and I was told that the owner had a hose job done by Petitt right before he sold it to me.

When I look at the hoses, I see that a few of them are obviously new, but that most seem to be old. And if not old, they certainly have not all been zip tied. It looks like the rack has not been removed, but I can't say for sure.

My plan is to:
[list=1][*]take a few hundred pictures[*]disconnect all hoses from the rack[*]remove the rack[*]test the valves and filters[*]replace all hoses on the rack[*]replace the rack[*]replace all the hoses leading to the rack[*]replace the spark plug wires[*]put it all back together[/list=1]

Sound good?

I am taking my time and it seems this job might take 3-4 days.

 

I purchased these wires a year ago when I thought it would be a simple job to replace them. Now that I have access to the old wires, I am not sure these are any good. Does anyone have any experience with these wires?

 

The reason I am not sure is that the new wires are 7mm, but the heads appear to be not quite as 'robust.'

In this pic, you can see the head of an old wire (blue) with the head of a new hanging from above.

 

The stock NGK wires fit perfectly and there is no need to change from them. I buy mine over the counter at a local import auto parts store for under $40 a set.

 

I looked at my reciept... The wires I have were only $15 -- another reason they scare me. I certainly don't want to do all this and then have to replace them again in 6 months.

 

It looks like the solenoid rack cannot be removed unless the ignition coils are first removed. True?

 

Yep, it's only a few bolts.

 

The answer is yes. More work. It's not that the work scares me... It's just so more to keep track of.

I think I will run to the store and buy some kind of label tags.

 

Actually, out of everything you have done so far, removing the coil rack will seem like cake! I believe it's only 4 bolts (IIRC) and the grounding straps.

 

Yeah, the coils are easy to get out. The solenoid rack is a different story (those screws are kind of a PITA to get out)

 

Use a hard screwdriver bit with hexagonal fitting. Place it in a socket w/ ratchet and use to get the screws facing the firewall.

Also,

If I were to make some more coil reloc. fittings and brackets, who would be interested?

As shown in this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=266738

 

The three screws on top came out easy and clean. From what I am reading, I am guessing these don't need to be removed.

I will try the four on front next (after I remove the coils), and then the ones on the back.

Does anyone know the procedure for testing the solenoids?

 

To do a basic test, not including variable duty cycle, connect a hand vacuum pump to the solenoid port. Connect one side of the terminal to ground and connect another side of the terminal to +12-14V (battery).

You should hear the solenoid click and airflow will either be allowed or no longer allowed (depending on the solenoid's configuration).

 

I like your relo, but I have the Cruise Control there. If I find another spot, I will look into it.