alberto_mg

Hi. I was just installing new rotors and SS lines.

Caliper problem first:
I unbolted my rear caliper separated it from the bracket and now I can't get the link pin and guide pin back in! It just does not seem to want to thread. I pulled the caliper back off again and it looks like the first couple of threads did strip. Is there any special way of getting these two bolts back in?

SS lines - Goodrich:
On the rears where the lines bolt into the hard line, the opening in the bracket is not large enough to allow the part where you attach the clip to to secure the line to the chassis. I was checking Damian's thread in the archives, but he didn't seem to have a problem with this. Is this normal? Is it OK to just p-tie everything together?

alberto_mg

just to clarify - its the 17mm bolts that i'm having problems with.

thanks.

duboisr

Run the correct thread tap in the holes to recut the threads , if the bolts are bad use a thread file on them or get new ones . A thread file will have 8 different pitches on it so that is more usefull then buying a 17 mm die to recut the bolts .

DamonB

Once you clean the threads up on those pins be certain to clean the bores thoroughly with carb cleaner. One side of mine was nearly seized due to all the gunk in there. Then use a little high temp grease on the pins when you reassemble. The caliper should float nice and smoothly. If it doesn't, keep cleaning it.

I had no trouble with the Goodrich lines fitting into the stock clips. Only thing I can recomend is to look VERY closely at the hexagonal end that goes in the clips. It's not really a hexagon; one side is rounded and so is the clip. This means that the two will only mate ONE way.

djantlive

The TOP and BOTTOM caliper pins are different. Each labeled L and R (I think) on the pin. The caliper holes is also labeled and they need to match. The L is on the lower hole on caliper.

If you can't put the bolt back and the thread on the pins are messed up, you'll need some new ones. They sell for $15-20 a pop, not cheap. The good news is that the thread inside the caliper should be okay. Make sure you put a lot of grease before reassembling together.

Not sure why Mazda made the pins different but it's a common problem amongst mechanics that don't realize this.

maxpesce

You should only remove LOCK ("L") pin when replacing the Rear Brake Pads - the caliper rotates around the GUIDE "G" pin and the pads slide out. The caliper can also be removed w/o removing the guide pin, as it will slide out of the bracket after the caliper is rotated. If the holes in the caliper are stripped they can be repared w/ a properly sized helicoil. If you do use a helicoil be very careful to keep the holes square and true so the pins remain parallel and maintain the proper spacing to fit properly in the bracket.
When changing rotors just unbolt the BRACKET and remove the entire Caliper & Bracket as an assembly as the bracket has to come off to remove the rotor anyway (the FSM says remove caliper, then remove bracket to change rotrs)

alberto_mg

actually, the pins are fine. I believe I put them in the same holes they came out of. I remember reading a thread about that b4 I started.

What looks to have started stripping is the threads where it feeds into the caliper. When I was trying to screw them back in, they just sat there spinning like the threads weren't lining up. I tapped the pins/bolts with the back of the wrench and they got some traction, but it wasn't smooth. When I pulled them back out, the thread on the pins looked fine. I thought hmmm. So I looked at the caliper and there I saw the first couple of threads were toast.

Damon - Not quite sure I followed this - "Only thing I can recomend is to look VERY closely at the hexagonal end that goes in the clips. It's not really a hexagon; one side is rounded and so is the clip. This means that the two will only mate ONE way." Are you referring to the fronts? Both sides of the rears lines are totally different so I don't think there is a way to mount them incorrectly... I think....

Thanks for the help fellas. If you have any more comments, please post. Thanks.

alberto_mg

max - I'll look for the L and G labels to make sure I've got the right holes.

alberto_mg

In case this ever happens to someone else....

I think I reversed the L and G pins on the caliper bolts which is whey they didn't want to go in. I looked around for a tap for those bolts, but couldn't find one big enough so I removed the caliper and screwed the bolts from the other side of the caliper so that the bolts threaded toward the car body instead of outward. That re-threaded the caliper holes and I was able to get it the bolts in correctly. There is a god...

The SS lines still don't go through the mounting point where it mates to the hard line. Gonna contact the vendor and see what gives. Anyone had this problem with Goodrich lines?

wiblergt

actually, i just finished my SS line/Slotted rotor change yesterday.

did you have any problems with changing the front lines? is one of the corners rounded off on the 17mm nut/whatever it is called?

alberto_mg

I haven't done the fronts yet. Nothing is rounded out. The end of the SS line that mounts to the hard line does not fit through the factory mount that holds the SS line to the hard line.

wiblergt

IF IT IS NOT LONG ENOUGH TO ATTACH THE FACTORY CLIPS, YOU HAVE TWO OPTIONS: REMOVE THE BRACKET AND GRIND THE WELDED PIECE OFF, MAKING IT THINNER, OR, GET A DIFFERENT BRAND OF LINES. I WILL TAKE A PIC IF YOU NEED ONE!

alberto_mg

bracket does not come off. it is welded onto the chassis.

post a pic if you have one.

alberto_mg

I figured that I would post this as an FYI...

Turns out that these lines fit one way only. One side of the line is semi-circular vs the other side which is hex. That semi-circular part should face toward the rear of the car. If you twist it around, there will be one point where the ss line pushes through enough to attach the clip.

I tried updating the post in the archives with this but couldn't