pacman74

I'm currently planning out my v-mount system, but I want to keep my a/c if possible. So, instead of bending the hard lines that go to my a/c condenser, I was wondering if there's any reason why I couldn't custom make soft lines with the proper fittings crimped on to them. It seems that they make hoses for this purpose, such as this for example: http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...cation_id=6197

Anybody know if there is a downside to this?

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

You can do it as you suggest, however; line management is easier with a modified hard line (suction side), which is what I have done.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

^ glad you posted this Eddie, i was wondering the same thing myself

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

You can bend the line, cut it and have it re-welded, or make a custom like. Custom would look the best but its your call. If you chose to bend it, just make sure you make small, gradual bends and don't kink the line.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

so its just best to get lines custom made then? i guess ill do that for my set up

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

The only disadvantage to hoses lines as opposed to hard lines, other than the obvious (easier to puncture, withstands less pressure, much bigger diameter than a hard line, etc) is that moisture will migrate through the hoses into the system. It takes a loooong time for a problematic amount of moisture to get into the system, and really isn't that big of an issue, but something to be aware of. Pull a good vacuum when recharging, and install a fresh drier on the system and you won't have to worry about moisture for many years.

Zyon13B

Great topic, I've been wondering this myself. Thanks for all the answers.

Nat6c

iTrader: (1)

i made a rubber line myself b/c i broke one of my a/c lines when i swapped radiators. they are really really bulky and ugly. if you can have a new line made for your application and it will look sooooo much better.

pacman74

Thanks, I was planning on getting a new drier and condenser as well.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Just use the stainless steel braided line specific for ac use then you can use AN fittings too.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

evap to compressor AN 10
compressor to condensor AN 8
condensor to drier AN 6
drier to evap AN 6

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

NOTE: The foregoing is only true for the Denso (touring) AC systems. Cars equipped with the MANA system (Base & R1) use different fittings that are similar in size; however, they are metric and NOT compatible with the AN fittings.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Absolutely true!! Thanks for clarifying. I should have stated that...especially since mine is Mana.

T2 Tsunami

iTrader: (3)

****...so that's why I can't get these hard lines to fit right. Anyone have the 2 hardlines that go from the passenger firewall to the rubber hose(for a touring)by the radiator?

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

They should fit into place in the car, and the couplers should line up on the ends but they won't screw together.

T2 Tsunami

iTrader: (3)

So which year/model pipes will work for my 93 touring? or can I only use the pipes from the 93? I hope someone has these laying around.

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

Easiest way to tell what system type you have is to look at the sightglass. If the sightglass is integral to the fitting that bolts directly to the top of the dryer then you've got a Nippondenso system. If the sightglass is in a little aluminum cube in one of the lines that attaches to the dryer but not directly on top of the dryer then you've got a MANA system.

The refrigerant type and system type (ND/MANA) determine the fittings on the end. The year should not matter if the refrigerant type and system type are the same.

Some 1994 cars had Nippondenso systems, others did not. My 1994 Touring has the MANA system which runs counter to the pattern for the 1993 MY cars.

All 1993 and most if not all 1994 cars that came to North America used R-12.

1995 MY cars had R-134a.

TheCrazyAZN

iTrader: (2)

This is priceless information! I love the forum when it actually becomes useful

Is there any chance someone knows the fitting ends for the MANA system? I had already planned on just rewelding the hose/hardline ends to match with -AN fittings. But I had no idea that they were already -AN compatible.

TheCrazyAZN

iTrader: (2)

Just to be clear and for future reference:

MANA (please ignore the Signal brand cover)


Nippendenso


Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

+1 Crazy. The foregoing photos are, in fact, correct.

T2 Tsunami

iTrader: (3)

Hey thanks crazyazn. So I am now searching for a pipe for a nippondenso AC unit.

Phoenix 6.0

iTrader: (1)

without having the drier, is there a way to identify the evap as denso or mana?

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

Sure is! The key is how the expansion valve attaches.

The Nippondenso expansion valve is a block type (picture). So the evaporator lines converge into a single flat fitting that will accept the above expansion valve.

The MANA expansion valve is the traditional type with flare fittings (picture) so the evaporator lines are flare fittings that don't converge into a single attachment point.

Note, all of these fittings are inside the evaporator case under the dash...the two lines that stick through the firewall look the same to the naked eye on both systems.

fdbabb

Please list a couple of places I can get a hard line made.

I have a 93 R1 that uses R12, I also have a R134a pump (Apparently missing 1 of the 2 wires going into the electrical junction on top of the 3 inch by 2 inch assembly . I'd like to switch over to 134a (engine is currently out of the car - nows the time to do it)

The electrical connector is different.
1.) Can I remove the aluminum 3" by 2", 4 bolt housing on the old compressor and transplant to the new compressor?
1a.) Or.... have you repaired / can you repair the missing wire problem?

2.) Then it would just be a matter of putting the R134a fittings on the R12 fitting (found in some 134 to R12 conversion kits), correct?

Thanks!

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

Shops that specialize in auto A/C repairs can probably repair the line.

3 inch by 2 inch assembly? Huh? Can you post a picture? It sounds like you're describing the iron/steel center housing of the compressor...

Properly converting a system to R-134a entails more than just a couple fittings and some magic in a can.

It is simpler to just stick with R-12. These cars don't need more than two cans so the cost of the refrigerant should be fairly low, plus performance will be better than with R-134a.