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>>>>> I just figured that r12 going to be harder and harder to get. So make the switch while the engine's out.

Jeff

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

You are correct about the availability of R12. However, I cannot recommend a R134a conversion for the FD, or any car designed for R12 for that matter. (Incidentally, the compressors are the same, there was eventually a change in seal material.) Performance with 134 will likely be poor at best and there are other complications due to the chemistry involved.

You will achieve much better performance by using a hydrocarbon refrigerant such as (ES12, I-12a, etc..) and you don't have to change the oil, which is much easier said than done; moreover, it performs most excellently in the FD a/c system. (If you need or insist upon an (HFC) based 134 type refrigerant, at least use something blended like Freeze 12.)

FWIW, I am running 2 cans of ES I-12a in a FD mana system which is the stock a/c with the exception of the v-mount arrangement. Note that I'm also using an underdrive pulley which reduces a/c capacity a bit, esp. at low rpm's. As a testimonial to the effectiveness of this system, my a/c was producing 43-45 deg F outlet air with the blower on the highest position, #4, and that was while cruising through Palm Springs, CA with 114 deg ambient temps about two weeks ago. Contrary to popular belief, the FD a/c does have plenty of capacity, and it doesn't get any better (or colder than this on any a/c system).

Those of you considering R134 conversions should read this thread https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/c-gurus-what-say-you-about-freeze-12-a-664882/ , which discusses the topic extensively, and then I would encourage you to re-consider. If you are already using 134 and want better performance, you still can take advantage of relatively inexpensive alternative refrigerants.

Good Luck.

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

You should be fine swapping out the thermoswitch. I doubt the switching temperatures differ significantly between the two, if at all.

Really. You have to disassemble the system flush ALL the components with the proper solvent and replace the dryer to properly convert these systems.

R-12 will be available for MANY years to come. Prices have actually been dropping because demand is falling.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

sorry to bump an old thread here, but i am making some custom AC lines, and the smaller port on the DENSO evaporator don't appear to be -6...
the -10 fitting i bought for the evap works perfectly.

i bought some female -6 oring fittings for the smaller port on the evap and they are too big... it appears to be a -4 port on the evap.

can anyone confirm this?

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

after doing more research, it appears that the o-ring section is indeed 3/8ths, but the thread size is 9/16 -18 according the HalfSpec guy on NoRotors.com (which is not AN...-6AN would be 5/8 -18).

anyone have any experience with this?

CrimsonPride

iTrader: (11)

Those liquid lines on the Denso system are 5/16" od pipe with 9/16 - 18 for the nuts, as you said. If you need a fitting like that in your pic you can buy a tubing nut and make the O ring recess in it by drilling. Fitting would need to be brazed onto the line. If you can get an aluminum fitting it can be brazed onto there with something like aluminum solder. I bought some solder to do this once and the guy in the welding shop thought I might be able to get enough heat with propane torch but something hotter could be required like Map gas. I can't confirm because I never actually ended up doing this.

Most tubing nuts you see available are steel, if you find a source for aluminum ones that would be good info to post up. Can you join the steel ones to the aluminum lines? I don't know.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

ok i went to a couple places today and got the right fitting.

the DENSO evap has a METRIC STYLE fitting for the smaller high pressure line, and it's M14 x 1.5. a 9/16ths -18 would work but i think you'd have to cut down the length of the male insert that has the o-ring on it. the AC expert guy i was talking to today said the manufacturers do this to keep people from mixing SAE and metric o-ring fittings.

i'll post the part # of the fitting i got later.


but to sum it up, the bigger line on the DENSO evap is -10 AN o-ring, and the smaller high pressure line is M14 x 1.5 o-ring.

TheCrazyAZN

iTrader: (2)

Love the forum for stuff like this.
Thanks for the info!

It looks like youre using crimped fittings. Any reason why you went this direction instead of the easier -AN A/C hoses that you can fab yourself? (Stainless compression screw type)

i.e AN Air Conditioning Hose | ANplumbing.com

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

great question.

i came across the aeroquip reusable stuff, and i'd be using it if i had the ability to **** out gold bars, or if i had a money tree. it is very nice stuff, and it's reusable.

the crimp fittings i'm using are $5-10, and 6 of them are required. and the hose is $3-5 per foot. (from Nostalgic AC parts). i bought 6 feet of -6, -8, and -10 hose, which was $67 total, and 6 fittings, which was $40. $107 total.

the aeroquip fittings are $30-50 each, and the hose is $12-15 per foot, so equivalent aeroquip reusable hose would be $235. without spending a lot of time looking up part numbers for the aeroquip fittings, it looks like i'd need two of the $45 fittings and 4 of the $30 fittings, which is $210. $445 total.

i'll have to pay about $20 to get my fittings crimped at a local hydraulic shop.

SO $127 vs $445 just for AC fittings and hose.

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

so is there any update or a diagram on how to make a AC hardline??

i came across the Dorman stuff with regards to tubing as well as the female & male end fittings, but i wasn't sure if they were the correct thread pitch/AN fitting to be compatible with our stock setup. (Last 4 Attached Pictures)

i'm currently in the process of rebuilding my engine and plan on going V mount but would also like to keep my A/C for those hot summer days.

so far, based on what i've seen in V-Mount kits which come with custom hard lines to use your stock A/C condenser; is the idea of what i plan to make. (First Attached Picture)

i want to avoid having to bend the tubes since i read that it make the AC lack its cold blowing power noticeably.

any help on this is greatly appreciated

AntennaAdapters

iTrader: (2)

My tutorial on norotors shows how to build a full set of lines for the FD + LSX transplant. Of course this isn't as useful to rotary guys, but there is a good bit of info you can learn from it. Specifically, I list part numbers for exactly what you need to adapt to the Denso or Mana evaporator:

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?to....msg303134#new

If you started with my tutorial, you could use the drier I use and you'd have 2 pieces of the puzzle figured out. You'd just have to adapt to the compressor and condenser. The benefit of using my drier is #1, it would solve a huge problem for the Mana guys who can't source new driers, but of equal importance #2 You'll have a drier that only cost $15 to replace in the future.
Universal condensers are really good options for replacing the beat 23 year old stock condenser, so going aftermarket would mean you'd have 3 pieces solved for. Then you'd only have to figure out the fittings that connect to the compressor and work out your hose lengths.

Lane

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

^^^ thank you very much !!!!