Hey Everyone,

Killer club forum going on here, tons of information. I have always loved the Rx7 ever since back in high school buddy of mine had a 1st generation that he modded out. Thing ran like a champ.

Anyway, let's fast forward 15 years to now, I have not driven in 5 years do to some complications on my license and finally got it back, I have been on the hunt for a 3rd gen rx7 now for 3 months. I think I have found the one.

My questions is that I see a lot of haters and flamers on here stating reliability issues out the ying yang. Car I found is 83k w/ a rebuid at 50k. Bone stock touring model 93, red w/ tan leather for a good price. Older couple, used as daily driver, no leaks, clean vin and never been wrecked.

I read about the reliability mods for the pre-cat, hoses being replaced and clamped, and other mods.

Basically I just want some people to tell me a gently used rx7 can be reliable with proper care and maintenance. I have the luxury of living very close to Performance rotary in Manassas, VA.

I really love this car, but I am no racer or young buck that wants to tweak out his ride constantly.

Thanks again for any information, concerns or tips that people might reply with.

-Will

 

FAQ's help a lot. (which is really why my post count is LOW)

 

your best bet is to read over the FAQ section that is provided about 3rd generation RX-7s. you can find lots of valuable information as well as some things to look out for when purchasing the vehicle

it helped me find a good RX-7 to buy and its the car of my dreams thus me not takin any chances with uncertainty. read over them and you'll find lots of info that can potentially save you from becoming another horror story

 

Like you are going to hear over and over again,make sure you thoroughly read through the FAQ's..There is some great information in there.As far as needing assurance of reliability,if you have to ask,you might want to reconsider your purchase.Now if you feel like you are financially able to commit to anything that this car may need,then just go out and buy it..Everyone is going to tell you different things because of their own personal situation..Someone who has gone through 3 engines in 2 years will tell you the car isn't reliable at all..Someone who performs complete regular maintenance and takes care of their FD will tell you that it is reliable..I say,just go and buy the car and don't look back.

 

I would agree ^^ remember if you go strait through exhaust you will have boost creep and will have to port the wastegate or get a block off plate.

 

Thanks for the info, I have been reading all the FAQ's that I can. I go to look at the car this Friday and going to go over as much as I can. Next step critique and test drive and see how it goes.

Thanks for the replies so far.

 

You said it is bone stock and owned by an older couple..I highly suggest that you hook up a boost gauge when you go to check it out to make sure that their aren't any boost leaks,and i'd also suggest,being so close to a rotary shop,that you compromise with the couple and go get a compression check..You'd hate to spend all that money and be staring in the face of a rebuild.

 

bone stock but it was rebuilt 30k ago, I plan on picking up a cheap boost gauge and checking for the 10-8-10 boost. Also they noted that they had some seals replaced not long ago. New front cover seal, front main seal, oil pan gasket and more, new radiator.

Too far from the shop to take it for a compression test, I think I will have to roll the dice on that, I will keep my eye out for smoke when driving and with the boost test and all the maintenance history I hope I am safe.

 

Well,good luck..I said the same thing with my FD.."Oh,i'm a couple hours from a rotary shop,so i'll take my chances"..Turned out,I needed a rebuild because the owner lied to me..So just be cautious,that's all.

 

^^
+1

With a car this complex, your much better off having a professional check out the car before you buy. Especially if its gonna serve as your daily driver.

 

Know of any good rotor shops in the annapolis , MD area?

 

Check the NE regional forum..Here is a list of rotary shops in the Northeast.

https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/list-all-mechanics-ne-area-137694/

 

Grab one that also measures vacuum (some show boost only): with the engine at a warm idle, make note of the engine RPMs and vacuum reading.

 

Got a link for a nice cheap gauge to pick up? OR should I just hit AA parts for a cheap one?

 

Will,
Sounds like it may be a pretty decent car. My preference is to buy a close to stock car so you can mod to your tastes. You also avoid any dangerous modding mistakes that some people do.

The Reliability Mods are reasonably well documented. The downpipe is a good mod for various reasons - mostly helping to get heat out of the engine compartment. AST is highly suggested as the stock one will eventually break. Radiator is up to you. If its relatively new it can last quite a while. I probably wouldn't screw around too much with the vac hoses unless you see some that are obviously broken. Its one of those things that are easy to get wrong and you usually brake solenoids while in there.

Get a cheap boost controller that also reads vacuum. If you see good vacuum at idle around 14-18, its usually a pretty good sign of a tight motor. Of course compression test will give you more details.

Good luck and keep reading those FAQs as well as the buyers guide

 

Check out Peter Farrell's in Frederick, MD. That might be the closest. The web site has the phone number - just google peter farrell supercars.

BTW : No matter how far you have to travel get the #$@%^ compression test done!!

All of the comments about the maintenance costs are spot on!! With the 93 FD you are going to experience problems.

No need to experience them the very day you buy it.

Good luck.

Syuper77

 

I suggest that even if you think you've found the 'right' one that you check out others both above and below your price range. There is a lot of stuff that you learn just from driving/owning it, and if you haven't sat in enough of them you won't recognize obvious problems right away.

I 2nd the importance of the compression test. At the very least you can spend $25 on a cheap compression tester and pull the check valve, bring a spark plug socket, and do it there. Once you run thru the procedure a couple of times it's not a big deal.

Dave