turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Today my bodyguy came over and we started rubbing out the paint on the CYM. I've buffed plenty of cars and even color sanded them but this is the first time I've been tutored through the process by a guy that new what he was doing. Some of you might be interested in the process.

First we went around the car with 1500 grit and "nibbed" any spots that were in the paint like lint, dirt, etc. That really didn't take long and we only found ~15 little spots in the car. We used a hard backed small block so that it would flatten out any high spots. A soft backed pad doesn't cut the high spots as well.

Then we taped off all the trim around the windows, doors and covered the engine bay in plastic.

Then we went around the car with 2000 grit (I didn't know they made it that fine) wet/dry paper on a DA. We sanded the entire top of the car and the sides down to about the middle of the door.

Then we took 4000 grit (didn't know they made that either) and sanded the roof and hood. This sand paper is so fine that it really leaves the car looking like it is only slightly faded not completely dull.

After that we (ok he did this part) took some "red" compound on a white buffing wheel and polished it out to a pretty high shine.

Then we went around the car with a yellow buffing wheel with "white" compound. This leaves a very high shine.

Unfortunately some small piece of dirt got between the sandpaper disk and the hood and left small scratches in it and require resanding with the 2000 grit to remove them. We ran out of time and stopped there.

Tomorrow we will finished the hood and then buff the rest of the car once again with a foam buffing pad to remove any swirl marks that might be left.

I would have taken pictures but there isn't a lot to take pics of, the paint does not appear to be sanded down in most pics, and buffed out it doesn't really look any shinier in pics.

Here is a link to some pics of the project car I'm referring to...

http://community.webshots.com/album/89560034SgoVwL

Now hopefully I'll be able to put the motor in it soon.

Jeff

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Jeff,

I don't know much about paint. Is this car clearcoated, or are you buffing the actual paint?

spurvo

God, that's beautiful....

Kento

4000 grit paper? Isn't the final glazing compound 4000 grit?

JebenKurac

why bother with a stock front end? and that kid seat rocks man

oneflytrini

iTrader: (1)

Hey Jeff, is that you in pic 100_2247? I always imagined you as a hairy guy who hated kids J/k
I can't wait for a vid of that thing running down a nice stretch of road.

diablone

iTrader: (2)

Because it's the best looking bumper available?

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

that's debateable

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

I debated about getting the 99 front but in the end that plate holder killed it for me. I didn't want a fiberglass front end because I've seen what they look like after a few miles.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

CYM's are a 3 stage paint, base (yellow), pearl and clear. This car was actually painted as a 2 stage, pearl was mixed in with the yellow.

To answer your question we were buffing the clear.

prew

iTrader: (9)

wow. I'd feel bad driving a car that clean. great work.

93silverbullet

iTrader: (7)

Lookin' good Jeff!

mazdaspeed00

iTrader: (6)

cute pic of you kid sitting in the back of the fd.

DamonB

That is a beautiful car, Jeff. Are all those shiny parts I'm seeing on the underbody and ib the engine bay new or just cleaned and/or repainted?

IOJINXOI

This is not accurate. The stages involved will vary between product. Most painters will tell you the same. This is mst likely why the one you are speaking of was layed out in two stages, base and clear. The j9 colour was done in two stage at the factory. Not three. Nice looking car regardless.

mecman

iTrader: (11)

Dayam! Turbojeff you're my hero! That is one helluva project! What do you do for a living?

Do you plan on selling the car or keeping it after you are through?

p.s. - the IC you sold me work great!

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Thanks, I'm keeping it and selling my red R1.

Mechanical engineer designing injection molded plastic, cast metal (AL, Zn, Mg) and some sheetmetal parts/assemblies.

Glad to hear the IC is working well.

Mdessouki

iTrader: (7)

I feel this sequence has a little more sanding but a whole lot less buffing. Start out by using 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500 try to let the sandpaper do the work. You will end up using less cutting compound (the first material applied after sanding). Everyone has there own methods though. Also the 2 stage is a good idea, colormatching will be much easier if you ever need to spot something in.

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

turbojeff, u make me want to send my car to you lol.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Your probably right. I don't know how screwed $$ wise I got on the sandpaper but ~12 discs were about $45 for Abralon (sp?). I wouldn't want to buy that much sandpaper, compound is cheaper.

I've figured everybody has there own method but at least I've got a little insight to *one* method.

rotorbrain

no joke!!! my car has a salvaged title and "I" can tell. . . most everyone else cant, but it absolutely kills me!!! im sure the price for the repairs i want are enough to kill me as well!!! hahaha, my dreams are smashed yet again. booooo. hahahaha.

jeff, that is a sweet deal you have there. . . keep of the outstanding work!!!!

paul

Larz

Uhhhhhhh yeahhhhhhh. Had to mazdabate.

speedx7

looks good

Mdessouki

iTrader: (7)

I use the black or grey wet or dry sheets thats dirts cheap you can even find it in assorted packs at your local wallmart. The things you bought are great but not cost effective and only work well on light colored cars. Not a big deal for a one time thing but not a good idea if you need them regularly.