broken turbo stud, help ??????
11-11-03, 11:09 PM
#1
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broken turbo stud, help ??????
hey was going on out there peps?
i was changing my twin set up for anothrt one the old ones were gone.... so anyways im all about done just need the intake stuff and as im thighting the last botl that connects the turbo housing to the Y pipe snaps.... has this happen to anyone else ???? if how do go about fixing it????? any info will help thanks
i was changing my twin set up for anothrt one the old ones were gone.... so anyways im all about done just need the intake stuff and as im thighting the last botl that connects the turbo housing to the Y pipe snaps.... has this happen to anyone else ???? if how do go about fixing it????? any info will help thanks
11-12-03, 12:24 AM
#3
this happened to me before...
go get a good pair of vice grips.
if any portion of the stud is still exposed, twist out what you can.
bring it to your local auto parts store, replace it, and ask for a nut with a matching thread to help you put the new stud into place.
if that doesn't work...drill it out, or use a tap and dye set
go get a good pair of vice grips.
if any portion of the stud is still exposed, twist out what you can.
bring it to your local auto parts store, replace it, and ask for a nut with a matching thread to help you put the new stud into place.
if that doesn't work...drill it out, or use a tap and dye set
11-12-03, 12:44 AM
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tap (no die) after you drill. But i think if you spray what is left with some lube and get either a stud remover or vice grips( scary) and twist that stud out.
11-12-03, 12:54 AM
#6
Rotary Freak
yeah I agree. Try the vice grips first. If that dosn't work drill a little pilot hole into the stud, then use a bolt extractor to screw it out. If that goes good you wont have to worry about retapping.
11-12-03, 03:23 AM
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There is another easier way to remove a stud if you have enough of the stud left. Put 2-3 of the same type of nuts on the ends of the thread, then if you have access to it, loosen from the inside nut which will naturally apply it's force against the other 2 nuts which won't want to move at all due to frictional forces - however the stud will still move. This method can also be used for stud removal and installation, in general.
If you don't have the room on the stud or you just can't get it out with other means, you're going to have to pull the turbos and drill it out - life will suck.
If you don't have the room on the stud or you just can't get it out with other means, you're going to have to pull the turbos and drill it out - life will suck.
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11-12-03, 10:33 PM
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studs on rx7's are devils. if you have not drilled a stud out before, make a friend who has. go slowly and DONOT break the tap inside the housing. they are special metal, i forgot what its called, but then youll be in big trouble and may have to junk the housing or pay a shop to do get it out for you.
11-23-03, 11:32 AM
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ihave a set of turbos tonyttt@comcast.net
11-24-03, 08:41 AM
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Here is a general rule of thumb with broken bolts:
If the bolt got tighter and tighter without having the head touching (in other words binding as it is being screwed in), chances are that you will need to drill and extract with an easy-out. This is the case with studs that the inserted end is knurled for grip. Also, strike the top of the remaining bolt to relieve some of the tension stress that has been induced into the bolt and hole to help alleviate for easy removal.
If the bolt went in and bottomed out smoothly, then broke off when torque was applied, the bolt will back out extremely easy with minimal effort. Usually, the metal fatigues at the breaking point just above the threaded area.
Most of the time, I have removed these with very minor effort. Just the pressure of my finger twisting on the bolt will start the unscrew. Sometimes the top thread will deform causing the piece to stick, but usually a few taps with a pinpoint punch in the counterclockwise direction will take care of this.
Another trick to help remove bolts that are going to be difficult to remove (rusted and such) is to sharply hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. This caused the threads to alleviate the tension in the threads as well as break rust/corrosion bonds that may have formed.
Good Luck with your project.
Tim
PS If you remove the part, cannot get the piece out of cast, there is one last alternative. I had a manifold with a broken stud from a 280Z. I tried the pliers, drilled and tapped, broke a tap.
The solution was to remove the manifold. My brother who owns the body shop then took his torches and heated the stud cherry red without getting the surounding cast red. Then he popped a burst of oxygen and it melted the stud without affecting the cast iron and thread. He was very good at this. Not recommended for amateurs. Took about 3-4 times to melt the whole stud out of the bottomed out hole. Ran a new tap chase down through to clean up the threads and everything was like new.
If the bolt got tighter and tighter without having the head touching (in other words binding as it is being screwed in), chances are that you will need to drill and extract with an easy-out. This is the case with studs that the inserted end is knurled for grip. Also, strike the top of the remaining bolt to relieve some of the tension stress that has been induced into the bolt and hole to help alleviate for easy removal.
If the bolt went in and bottomed out smoothly, then broke off when torque was applied, the bolt will back out extremely easy with minimal effort. Usually, the metal fatigues at the breaking point just above the threaded area.
Most of the time, I have removed these with very minor effort. Just the pressure of my finger twisting on the bolt will start the unscrew. Sometimes the top thread will deform causing the piece to stick, but usually a few taps with a pinpoint punch in the counterclockwise direction will take care of this.
Another trick to help remove bolts that are going to be difficult to remove (rusted and such) is to sharply hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. This caused the threads to alleviate the tension in the threads as well as break rust/corrosion bonds that may have formed.
Good Luck with your project.
Tim
PS If you remove the part, cannot get the piece out of cast, there is one last alternative. I had a manifold with a broken stud from a 280Z. I tried the pliers, drilled and tapped, broke a tap.
The solution was to remove the manifold. My brother who owns the body shop then took his torches and heated the stud cherry red without getting the surounding cast red. Then he popped a burst of oxygen and it melted the stud without affecting the cast iron and thread. He was very good at this. Not recommended for amateurs. Took about 3-4 times to melt the whole stud out of the bottomed out hole. Ran a new tap chase down through to clean up the threads and everything was like new.
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