I changed all of the pads 2 days ago, and aside from the occasional squeak, I have noticed something that seems much worse than a new pad. I hear a noise, and "feel" it in the car, and it sounds like the brake rotor isn't aligned, or the brake pads are sticking to the rotor to the point where it creates this awful rubbing sound, and seemingly slows the car down. It only happens when braking very lightly, then letting off and crusing around at a parking lot speed. I noticed that when I was changing my pads, that one of the brake rotors (can't remember which wheel) could come right off after I removed the caliper. None of the other wheels were like this. Is this the reason? I'm sorry I must sound horribly stupid right now, I am running on 2 hours of sleep and haven't gotten a decent nights rest in over 2 weeks. My mind is autonomous.

 

Might have a pad that's dragging a bit. Get the car up on jackstands and find out what caliper it is - should be pretty easy to find by spinning the wheels and listening.

With the front calipers, make sure the metal pins are clean and greased up. If it's binding up it could make the pads drag.

It's a mechanical problem somewhere - it will just take some looking and messing around to find where exactly it is.

Dale

 

oh ya, about the pins in the front calipers...I noticed that there is a retaining 'paper clip' like fastener that holds these pins in place. I have it for the driver side, don't for the passenger side. well, I have it for the lower half of the caliper only. I'm worried that if I grease the pin, it might just slip out if I don't have that clip. Can I make one somehow?

 

it might be time for a rebuild, its not a good idea to make homemade parts for your brake system.

 

Check out page P-23 of the FSM. There should be one M clip which serves to keep [edit] the pad pins in place (? - it's been a while). The 2 M Springs push the pads away from the rotor. With one of these missing I would expect binding. Also be sure the pads can move freely over the pad pins.

I would order a new hardware kit for each wheel - I think that will include all new springs and shims. And do it ASAP - doing brakes isn't rocket science, but missing pieces are BAD and dangerous. Hope you have a DD, since the hardware kit probably isn't in stock locally.

Dave

 

Sounds like pads are dragging. Drive the car for a short time and after parking immediately get out and feel the wheels near the center. The hot one is where your problem is.

 

when you change pads and do a brake job you should always inspect and lube the slides for the cliper

 

I remember seeing once that a guy with an FC found the brake hardware kit (springs, etc.) for cheap at Advance Auto, and it was in stock. The FC and FD brake calipers are basically the same - might want to call around. I think the kit was like $5 or something crazy cheap.

Yeah, you definitely want all the hardware there and in good shape - brakes are mighty important . Check the shop manual if you need to see what's supposed to be there and how it's supposed to be installed.

Dale

 

hmm. just got off the phone with a parts store, and they don't sell shims individually. Guess I need to go to the dealer and get those things. I am missing the shims quite a few of the pads from what I can recall, and the new pads did NOT come with shims for some reason. The retaining clips or what the guy at the store referred to them as anti-rattle clips, are 11.29 for both the front calipers. I wonder what mazda is going to charge me.

 

What happened to the components you took out when changing the pads?

No offence, but I think you should take the car to a brake expert.

Not a good component to be experimenting with IMO.

Good luck, and be careful!

 

Thats exactly why I needed fix them. I took them apart to find out they were in worse condition. No shims, no clips, no lubes, etc.

 

so what do I do now? I got the clips in, made sure all the shims are in, lubed things up, they bind every now and then, although the squeaking has greatly greatly reduced. Theres barely anything.

 

Did you say that you have the M-shaped springs that keep teh pads separated?

Also, what sort/brand pad are you running? And which wheel is binding?

BTW, the rotors being loose is normal.

-bill

 

I just changed my pads like 5 days ago and I'm getting a constant scratchy noise... it sounds like what the pads sound like when they're worn down a lot, just a little softer. I didn't grease anything, just pulled the old ones and put in the new ones. What do you think it is?

 

well, I have the m shaped clips for one side. The other side, I'm missing one of the clips (2 per side). Otherwise, all the other goodies are in. Backing plates, and retaining pins and clips. I'm running Napa Auto parts brake pads. I'm beginning to think that this is the problem.

 

I bet that those with scraping noises have swapped the bolts that hold the caliper on. The bolts are actually the same, but one has a washer on it. If you swap them, the end of one bolt will hit the inner swept area of the rotor (where the pad makes contact). After a few days, it will wear a groove into the rotor and get a lot quieter. You will need to resurface or replace the rotor if you drove the car more than a block or so.

Look at the rotor (where the pad makes contact, on the inside -- not the "outer" area you can see through the wheel). If you have a groove worn into the rotor, you have the caliper bolts swapped. Swap them back and resurface (~$10 at any auto parts store) or replace the affected rotors.

But don't feel too bad -- many people have done this before. I did it once, but I noticed it before I drove the car.

-Max

 

i don't remember seeing any washers on the bolts. and I'm still not understanding what exactly to look for. You're right though, the noise has decreased a lot.

 

Did you turn the rotors?

 

Well, it is very easy to spot this problem -- is there a 1/2" wide groove worn into the inside face of your rotor?

If this is the problem, remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the upright (a.k.a. hub carrier, whatever -- the thing the caliper bolts to with two big bolts) and swap their positions. If the groove on the rotor is significant, you should get the rotors turned or replace them.

To help identify where to look:

1. Pads rub the brake rotor. One pad on the outside (as seen through spokes in wheel), and one pad on the inside (as seen by looking in from the back of the wheel). Look at the "inside" surface of the rotor that the pad rubs, by looking in from behind the wheel. You might need to get under the car, or turn the wheel and use a mirror, etc.

2. When the caliper bolts are swapped, one of them sticks out too far and the end of the bolt rubs the inside surface of the brake rotor. It will make a scraping noise as it rubs a groove into the rotor surface.

-Max