Some more progress... thought I would share. Things are kinda half bolted down, more of a test fit at the moment. I need to make the lines coming out of the rail & to my FPR, once I find a place to mount it. Also need to finish my pump setup and pressurize the lines. Everything seemed pretty tight but I will feel a lot better when its holding pressure.

There are also some pics of my filter setup for those who asked in my thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/braided-stainless-steel-line-stock-hose-barb-618954/
About that... I peeled back the braid & zipped it off with the cutoff wheel. I also wrapped some electrical tape around the metal so it wouldn't fray or cause damage. After tightening down that worm gear like hell, its holding pretty good.

The last pic is the angled brackets I made to hold my rail on, the dude who was supposed to be making my rails decided to keep them, plus my LIM, for 8-12 months and sent me some brackets that didn't fit.... oh well... at least I got the LIM back.

Last but not least, one question: Where did you guys seal with teflon? I was going to do the threads on the rails; but what about that Y splitter I have and where the 90 degrees meet the hose ends? Both of those have that flare -6 AN threaded end.

 

 

lookin good.
KG rails?

 

Glad to see it's getting closer.

To answer your question, you only use thread sealant (teflon tape, paste or any of the others...) on pipe fittings. With pipe fittings the seal is made with the threads and the sealant fills in the tiny gaps between them. For AN-style fittings you absolutely do NOT use thread sealant. They seal with the bevels that are formed into the fitting. For the fittings on most Aeromotive FPRs they are meant to use a fitting with an O-ring. If you can't find the correct one, you can grind the flare off of a male AN fitting and add a fuel-safe o-ring.

Instead of teflon tape, LocTite makes a fuel-safe thread sealant that i would recommend.

 

I spy a RE manifold!

 

just watch it... those primaries dont like to seal! my new motor wouldnt start due to the front injector not sealing pumping little by little on the block! i then pulled it all and used very small amount of black rvt to promote a seal. its all goo 1.4k on my setup and no leaks (crosses fingers). i just sniff around the bay every once and a while.

 

Not KG rails, some a guy on the forum gave me some contact info for his friend. Since it is the RE manifolds I had to get something custom done.... He took the manifold for like 8-12 months but I ended up getting them eventually.

Thanks for the answer Dave. I do have that LocTite stuff, it worked great on my FPR gauge fittings. I wasn't sure if it would confuse people on the forum if I said that instead of teflon.

mono, did you use the bushings for the primaries? http://68.50.62.4:443/rx7/InjectorBushing
I installed those with some RTV, I wanted to use the stock diffusers but I didn't see that happening with the bosch injectors. It is exactly like the secondary setup, so im hoping it will seat fine in the block; I am not sure about the end going into the rails though.

 

Dude Ditch this filter


The filter in it is way small and clogs easily. With only 2,000 miles running ultra 94 exclusively (back when you could still buy it) I kept having fuel pressure tapering off past 6krpms. (550/1600) at 15psi. couldn’t figure it out at first till Kan asked me which fuel filter. Than His response was get rid of it, he had problems in every fd hees seen it in. we pulled it out then tadow no problems for the rest of that tuning session. I asked him which ones best and believe it or not he said stock. I personally have taken one apart and don’t like it, but hey I think gotham does more work than me.

I went overboard, went to 850/1600, dual pumps and dual SX fuel filters http://www.sx-performance.com/Fuel_Filters.htm

 

Almost forgot, looks awesome man, nice and clean, i love the black fittings

 

Good to know. I had a barbed K&N in my last setup, went about 5,000 miles, if not longer without cleaning it, maybe thats why I lost a little compression on the rear rotor. This is kind of why I went with the quick disconnects, I plan on cleaning it every oil change. If it wasn't already a tight enough fit in there & I didn't spend $100+ on those disconnects I would look at a different solution now.

Id like to do more with my tank/pump setup after the summer. Possibly run braided line all the way to the tank & include a surge tank. I might end up swapping it for one of those SX filters. Until then I will keep an eye on my fuel pressure gauge!!

What are the dimensions of those SX filters anyway?

 

their huge, ill measure when i get home. but flows enough for a top fuel drag car lol

their might be a few other filters like the areoquip that will still flow great and arent that big. i have aproblem going overkill lol

 

First of all looks good, secondly just alittle warning about those jiffy tites...I would put some o ring lube on the nipple and work it around a bit to prevent them from getting dried out and sticking aslo I found out the hard way that unlike stabolies or other more pricy brands the jiffy tights can achually snap together with only openning one side of the connection...so if you pressure up the pump with them dissconnected and then connect them the pressure will keep that side closed and open the other end further thus causing a normal looking ingagemnt without flowing any fluid, the only way to safely connect them is to make sure there is little or no pressure on either side of the connection.

 

Lube, gotcha.

So your saying if I pull them apart pressurized, clean out the fuel filter, and reconnect while the lines are still pressurized they wont always open up? Kinda defeats the purpose.... I will have to play around with them some. If they **** me off, they are gone.

 

Nice man. So whats left? Still got plenty of time to get it ready for spring .

 

yep, I ran them on a race car a few years ago and ended up late to a session do to it while i was motherfucking everything else on the car trying to figure out way the hell the car wouldn't start!!!! once I figured it out it wasn't a big deal you just have to wrap the the thing with a rag and push the pintle in to relieve any pressure and they work great...just something to be aware of. honestly for the price though I would still run them in your application considering a set of stabolies will run you over a $100 a set.

 

Yeah mike, not much more; got to finish the FPR portion, setup the fuel pumps, get some stuff anodized & polished, work out my ignition location & wires, plug in the wire harness & make some changes to it, then make sure everything is bolted down & fill her with fluids.

Hopefully another month before its started. Of course after I still have to put my body panels back on, get a new gauge cluster, tuning, ect....

Damn, well thanks for the info, I would have been freaked if my car wasn't starting. I still paid like $122 for all the jiffy tite stuff... where are these stabolies? I couldn't find them on a google search.

 

Whoops, the reason you couldn't find them is because i was spelling it wrong "dee da dee" they are Staubli...its a sub brand of Goodridge. like I said they are quite a bit more $ but here are some links...you can also get them through BSR products and motorsports spares

http://www.goodridge.net/usa/pdf/mot...i_products.pdf

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/adv...oryID=PLUMBING

 

first of all, your setup looks killer!!! really nice job youve done there. now, i have a question. can you estimate how much ss fuel line you used in the engine bay? im trying to figure out how much ill end up needing as im doing a dual pump/dual feed setup right now. ie: each pump to its own rail, then back to a dual inlet regulator.

just trying to figure out how much line ill need to go from the stock hardlines, to the rails, then back to a regulator. think 6ft is enough?

 

Thanks serene, I will take a look at those

I think I will have just enough ss line for two lines from the rails to the fpr and one line from the fpr to the stock return. I bought 15ft, was about to buy 20ft but they were out of stock. I thought it was excessive but now I think it is just enough.

 

^^^^ my bad, i was at my friends house... hehehe

 

You publicly admit to being friends with Rikki ? What's he been up to anyway? the forum has been a bit more boring since he signed off.......

 

sorry i didnt respond for while... no i did not use the rings from the stock injectors. the aftermarket primaries if properly adjusted with the bracket and aid from the rvt should seal right up. like i said just sniff every once and while when you check your other fluids.

 

lol, he said he got smart, bought a 350z and got out of the rotary scene

 

haha now i have some questions...

7-sins where did you get the quick connect fittings? what brand?

Rich where did you get your extension pipe from the greddy elbow?

Anyone/Everyone does anyone have experience with the aeromotive fuel pump computer unit? im hooking up the a1000 pump and need to buy a relay. so should i buy the aeromotive pump computer with the relay built in or should i just buy a relay and let her run whatever the batt gives her? if i should go with the relay can someone recommend one? thanks in advance!

-Lance

 

If Ryan was smart he would have never sold his fd for that ticking timebomb yellow ******* bannana he used to have in the first place. I see he is still helping you out Chris. I hope your not paying him cause at this rate he'll get you finished for sometime before 2010. j/k hurtings.

Hey Chris where did you guys plan on mounting your coils? You have the fuel lines tightened down over their location on the housings? Are you doing aftermarket coils?
Good luck, try to get it done for the Maryland bbq. BTW I'm digging the re manifold. More pics!