BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

Hello everyone,

This forum has given me so much in terms of information and knowledge that im tring to give alittle back in some way. i decided to do a write up of my latest install so anyone can follow it. All the information is out there but sometimes its spread across a few sites or a few threads. Thats where the newbie guide comes into use, all the information to do the job with tons of pictures all in one place.

If its worthy, anyone can host it or anyone can link it from their sites. I even have an easter egg in the page somewhere cause that the kinda dork i am enjoy!

It shows you how to install a boost and temperature gauge in your speaker mount gauge pod.

http://home.ptd.net/~blouzbee/boost/

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I guess you got tired of waiting for me to check it out, I honestly forgot, sorry about that . I just browsed through it now, and I really like the setup, with lots of pics, different colored fonts, and attention to detail, Nice job

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Good stuff! Keep up the good work! We can always use more quality writeups.

Few notes -

- The compression fittings that Autometer likes to use are crap - one or two disconnects, and the ferrule won't seal properly, resulting in lower boost and vacuum readings. Run 3.5mm silicone vacuum tubing from the nipple to the gauge, then get a 1/8" NPT to hose barb fitting - don't remember the size for the hose barb, something that will nicely fit the vacuum line. Screw that adapter onto the back of the gauge with Teflon tape and put the hose on the back - done. This will also make the gauge respond faster.

- I'm glad you used the throttle body coolant hose for the temp sender - I'm trying to cure the FD community of the drill/tap method .

Anyhow, great job on the writeup, and I hope to see some more from ya!

Dale

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

I know what ya mean about the compression ring, i kinked my hose in the guage pod so i had to undo it. i took one look at that ring and did not trust it. i went out and bought a three pack of extras to re-do it.

thanks for the tip on the 1/8 to barb but is there enough room in that pod to do it that way? just the way it is now there is not room for 1mm more of anything.

it was one of your threads that convinced me to use that method

thank you both for your feedback.

jectrx7

nice write up. the pics really help too. great job

jeff p

great job .. love to see this kind of stuff. its a big help to us new guys trying to save some money on repairs and trying to learn about our cars. also High five to Dale Clark I love his web site. it was a big help when removing my door panels and installing speakers.

Jeff

n rider89

oh my god thank you so much. i was just going to ask for this but you solved my problems.

thank you from a newbie

turBRO240

iTrader: (1)

props on the witeup... i like it.

n rider89

hey does any one have any other guages they could recomend? because i heard a couple of bad reviews about autometer guages and i like to hear any opinions

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

excellent write up

BillM

iTrader: (4)

If you want to keep as close to stock as possible, these are the best I have found. Red pointer, black background, white block font and (after modification) chrome rings and orange backlight. Purchased mine from egauges (ISSPRO series)

http://www.snapdrive.net/files/103405/IMG_0927.JPG

VegasFD

Nice write-up. Very thorough.

thiasRx7

Very detailed (pics of all the tools)! Great write up and great effort!

D-Lish

Thanks for sharing! Im about to do this some time soon and I will def be checkin this out.

shiftsideways

wow nice job! Makes a task that may seem hard at first very simple.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

your numbering is off, after "Under the hood" it goes 22 23 21 22

I also dont understand the point of these three steps?
21) Now its time to mate up the 5/32" vacuum hose with the 1/8" compression hose. Using teflon tape, wrap the threads of 1/8" compression fitting, 1/8" pipe coupler, and 3/16" barb fitting.


22) Slip on the back half of the compression connector on the tube followed by the compression ring. Tighten it down then connect it to the coupler along with the barb. Second picture is without the barb connector but you get the idea.


23) Route both your compression tubes towards the center of the firewall and cut to length. I used a stock connector to help route the 1/8" tube. Slip the 3/16" barb into the 5/32" compression tube and clamp it down. Use zip ties to secure everything in place

I dont remember reading anything about that in Dales write-up, good job on everything else though.

BlouZbee

iTrader: (7)

to use the nipple on the uim you need to use standard vac hose. those steps are necessary to mate that hose with the crappy hose that comes with the gauge.

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad this thread got bumped. Great write up. I've got both a temp and boost gauge installed in a tri-pod that were installed when I bought the car. Even so, reading your write gave me a lot of good ideas for other projects as well as maintenance/repair/upgrade of my existing gauges. Thanks a lot!