What brand of boost gauge do you recommend?

 

My GReddy gauge was, and still is, my first choice.

 

i have a Apex, but if i could do it over again i would get those defi gauge, looks very close to stock. i like the stock look for interior.

 

They are all pretty much good. Depends on the look you want, and if you want to deal with BAR measurements or not.

I've had the Autometer Boost gauge on my car for a little over 2 years. Still sits at 0 like it should and does it's job. It's not fancy and not expensive, but it does what it's suppose to.

 

i agree with mahjik. it just depends if you a baller or not. if your a baller get the most expensive one to be bling bling. if not, autometer is good enough IMO. its even available in carbon fiber! check it out at that summit racing dot com place.

 

I have the PF gauge and have t-ed the Pep-Boys cheapo gauge at the same point on the manifold (just to see if they agree). They read the same.

I think it mostly depends on how much money you want to spend and how pretty you want it to look...

 

Defi D-Gauge

 

Jason is a baller.

 

It is up to you, get what you think looks best :o) But I seriously discourage anyone from buy a RE Amemiya column mount pod. Rotary Perfomance says it is the best quality and fit. But unless you want to over pay for the RE Amemiya gauge you have to core out the pod to fit anything else, and then most gauges (like my autometer) are too deep and stick out a little. Also when I use my turn signal it now smacks the pod because it is too low. I'm going to pull it off and put it back on to see if it is my fault installing, but I wouldn't waste the money on that pod!

 

Jason, is the background lighting amber/red like the dash lights on that boost gauge??

 

Does Defi have a website?

 

Just check the RX-7 Store. They have good pics for most of the popular gauges:

http://66.216.67.51/subcat.asp?0=212

 

Yes the lighting is amber and you can remove the black ring and its chrome underneath.
Very stock looking.

Jason

 

Pic without the ring

 

Doesn't look like it's reading 0???

 

I have the RE pod and I like it. It looks stock (almost). I did have to do some work to get my SPI gauge from PFS to fit in there, and I did space it out with a few 2" o-rings behind the bezel, but it looks great. Also, it seems like RE tries to cut the plastic to clear the turn signal and wiper stalks, but the cuts are on the wrong sides or something. You can tell it is molded one way (for RHD cars?), and then has cuts (an attempt to adapt it to LHD?), but the cuts seem to be reversed compared to how you would want them (a mistake?). The solution is simple; make your own cuts to finish the job. It is pretty easy with a Dremel cutting wheel and perhaps a drill.

It certainly isn't plug-n-play, but the RE pod works great once you work it over a bit. It also costs a lot, but nothing else looks as good once it is installed.

-Max

 

Could you post a pic. of the RE pod?

 

Here is a link to a bunch of pictures of the RE pod install.

http://members18.clubphoto.com/kara6...58/guest.phtml


For one of the most expensive column pods on the market, you should not have to drill out a slot for your turn stalk. It was obviously only designed for RHD cars, which Rotary Performance did not note on their website, saying it is only the best fitting. I could make something myself that fit better. But those DEFI gauges/Pods look much nicer IMO. I did pay for it and will keep it. And it's not total junk, just not worth the price.

 

Jason is that a Clarion Pro Audio CD head unit you got there? Looks like mine, I love it.

 

I was curious did everyone use their clear tube from the boost gauge or did you use seperate tubing? If so what kind? Where could I get it? I have Autometer and I accidentally cut one end of the tube that was smaller that would fit perfectly in the manifold tube. So now Iam looking for some tubing. Thanks

 

That is all true, but it is the only one that snaps into place like the stock cover, and no one makes a LHD version.

What I can't figure out is why it was molded one way, and then apparently cut, but it doesn't clear the stalks. I would think that they would mold it for the RHD cars, and then cut it for LHD. But it seems crazy that they would mold it so that it doesn't fit anything, and then require a cut from the manufacturer for RHD, and then require the end user to cut it for use on a LHD car. That leads me to think that it is molded for RHD, and they cut it for LHD, but the cuts they make are incorrect, so you have to cut it more to really use on an LHD car. Does anyone know the real story behind the design, and why all the cutting is required?

-Max

 

i dont get it man... why would you want to get rid of your steering wheel??? you dont like air bags??? looks like that one would hurt to hit your head on...
-Keith

 

Whoops I just realized I have the eclipse head unit. I have not been in my car in months and forgot

 

Doesn't Pettit have a column mount for LHD?? Or are they re-naming someone else product from a RHD market?

I have the part numbers for the hose I bought. I used a more typical vac line like the rest in the engine bay and only used like a foot of the hard nylon. I think the nylon will give you a better signal, but the hose I used is 10X easier to use. Go to the link I posted for pics. PM me is you want the part NAPA part numbers for the adapter and hose I used.

 

They do have one that is their own product (not a re-sell of a Japan-market item) made from fiberglass. But it doesn't clip in like the stock or RE ones, so you need to do a little work to mount it. I like the RE one better, but it also costs more than double the price of the Pettit piece.

-Max