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Boost falls below wastegate pressure after the out lap

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Old Sep 12, 2025 | 03:24 AM
  #76  
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From: sydney
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
I still wonder why I need to tighten the t-bolt clamps so damn much to get them to seal.
Use them on one car here. They're not a great solution, as the greater contact area doesn't deliver the point clamp load to the joiner of a thinner type.

Typically half the time when that car is smoke tested, you'll find a minor leak, as the clamp has deformed the 1.6mm alloy tube....as it sounds like you're possibly running too.

For a budget clamp, Wurth "zebra" hose clamps are pretty good, otherwise the double layer corrugated ones like this, would be the better way to go if they're available over there https://golebysparts.au/collections/...43801819611381
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Old Sep 12, 2025 | 05:28 AM
  #77  
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From: Japanabama
Originally Posted by billyboy
Use them on one car here. They're not a great solution, as the greater contact area doesn't deliver the point clamp load to the joiner of a thinner type.

Typically half the time when that car is smoke tested, you'll find a minor leak, as the clamp has deformed the 1.6mm alloy tube....as it sounds like you're possibly running too.

For a budget clamp, Wurth "zebra" hose clamps are pretty good, otherwise the double layer corrugated ones like this, would be the better way to go if they're available over there https://golebysparts.au/collections/...43801819611381
Hot damn those are expensive!
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Old Sep 20, 2025 | 07:15 AM
  #78  
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From: Japanabama
It just occurred to me to read through all blog posts of the car's previous owner (who I have met, but only spoken to a handful of times).

It's a really interesting experience, since he was pretty detailed.

I also found several mentions of him having issues with boost control after moving to the custom V-mount kit.
Hah. He ended up doing all the same sort of stuff I did, taking the wastegate apart and checking the piping. I think his issue might have been of a different nature, though.

It turns out the car made 358 hp on a Dynopack (not sure if this is measured wheel or calculated flywheel hp) at 1.2 bar of boost. So, I'm good to use at least that much boost.
It seems like he was measuring boost from the compressor, not from the manifold. So that explains most of the discrepancy.
Though one of the nipples he was using was plugged off by the time I got the car.

I think this dyno result was before he blew the original engine, though.
I see he decided to sell the car only a few months after swapping a used engine in, because something wasn't working right.
I wonder what the issue was, since the car is still running fun 15 years later.

It turns out the car got hit pretty badly on the right side door, rear quarter panel, and door sills.
He considered scrapping the car, but insurance paid out and he got it fixed. That explains why my right door sill looks a little funny.
It's been in a few other minor hits on the track as well, which might partially explain why one corner is lower than the other.

Last edited by Valkyrie; Sep 20, 2025 at 07:20 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2025 | 12:24 AM
  #79  
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From: Japanabama
I was about to mention that there seemed to be a pretty big discprenacy between my PFC Commander's boost and my boost controller's display,
but apparently the PFC reading about 0.1 bar (technically kg/cm2) low is a well-known issue with the PFC.

In my case it seemed to be more like 0.15 bar, but I suspect my EVC4 might be a bit high, since it doesn't turn to 0 after positive pressure is applied (during bench testing).
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