Anyone know how to rebuild actuators?
#1
Anyone know how to rebuild actuators?
My '94 touring model has a failed temperature actuator (FD01-61-A60). This isn't available basically anywhere, so I'm hoping someone knows how to repair/rebuild it (or some other random thing that can take it's place).
Anyone have a suggestion?
Anyone have a suggestion?
#2
So resolved this on my own:
The actuator is easy to disassemble, doesn't contain any odd springs or anything.
Electronics are trivial, 1 plug, one cap (power smoothing), two diodes, two sweeper arms, and a potentiometer (resistance dye used by one of the sweepers).
Mechanically there is the motor, a worm gear, and a few step down gears
The cap was dead on my board, and the plug had some odd solder corrosion. I replaced the cap and reflowed the connector (easy with a soldering iron) and the actuator is now working.
Just figured I'd post this in case anyone else hits a similar issue.
The actuator is easy to disassemble, doesn't contain any odd springs or anything.
Electronics are trivial, 1 plug, one cap (power smoothing), two diodes, two sweeper arms, and a potentiometer (resistance dye used by one of the sweepers).
Mechanically there is the motor, a worm gear, and a few step down gears
The cap was dead on my board, and the plug had some odd solder corrosion. I replaced the cap and reflowed the connector (easy with a soldering iron) and the actuator is now working.
Just figured I'd post this in case anyone else hits a similar issue.
The following users liked this post:
Felix16x (11-16-21)
#4
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Good find! What was the symptoms with that actuator - didn't move or what?
Dale
Dale
#5
The actuator didn't move at all (and was stuck on full heat)
I followed the FSM procedure (although the FSM says to remove the dash, that isn't required, just some creative screwdriver work).
When I applied 12V to the contacts (in either polarity), nothing happened... I ripped it apart and checked all the gears and the motor directly, then started trying to figure out why the circuit board was faulty.
And it turned out to be bad solders in the climate control system (I hear the second gen guys know a little bit about that...)
I followed the FSM procedure (although the FSM says to remove the dash, that isn't required, just some creative screwdriver work).
When I applied 12V to the contacts (in either polarity), nothing happened... I ripped it apart and checked all the gears and the motor directly, then started trying to figure out why the circuit board was faulty.
And it turned out to be bad solders in the climate control system (I hear the second gen guys know a little bit about that...)
#6
TANSTAFL
iTrader: (13)
Old thread update
Wanted to add some info to this thread as I just went through the same fix for my blend door actuator. My car would not switch from cold air to warm in the winter. Problem turned out to be cold solder joints in the actuator, which is NLA from Mazda.
Really cool little part with some similarities to the pop up headlight motors. Easy to fix
30min job if you heat up your iron while removing the actuator. The only pita part is the actuator cover, which has one screw that you need to get creative with.
I fluxed and remelted every joint on the board. Same routine for other cold solder joints. Hot 30 amp iron so you don't have to heat the joint forever and damage components. I put Flux on my joints before remelting to help draw any impurities to the surface.
Really cool little part with some similarities to the pop up headlight motors. Easy to fix
30min job if you heat up your iron while removing the actuator. The only pita part is the actuator cover, which has one screw that you need to get creative with.
I fluxed and remelted every joint on the board. Same routine for other cold solder joints. Hot 30 amp iron so you don't have to heat the joint forever and damage components. I put Flux on my joints before remelting to help draw any impurities to the surface.
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j0rd4n
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07-08-07 02:12 PM