Alien7

iTrader: (1)

I've done a search....but I'd like confirmation.

Will a boost controller be able to keep my boost to 10 psi without drilling the restriction out of the nipple?

My car has a dp, apexi intake, and a racing beat exhaust. Most of the time the turbos hit a max of 10-11 psi. On cold nights it's gone as high as 12 psi.

When I had just the intake and dp on the car there was no change in my boost levels at all, so I figured the catback wouldn't bop me up too much.

The car is still under warranty, so I'm not going to get an ecu any time soon. If I must, I'll take the intake back off and just cruise for another year or so until the warranty is out. I'm also thinking I should run the car on a dyno to see what the Air/Fuel is looking like.

Thanks for looking.

dubulup

A/F should be okay.

Also, adding an ECU isn't brain surgery so the warranty people wouldn't know if you put the stock one back in.

Alien7

iTrader: (1)

True....but i'd prefer not to be clipping any wires at this point.

I'm not really too concerned about running lean. From most of the posts I've seen I should be ok with the main cat still in there. I've already done a lot of WOT runs on the highway, and I think the only time I hit 12 psi is in 3rd gear.....4th seems to be fine.

Any others car to share?

dubulup

Which ECU requires you clip wires?

911GT2

For the Apex'i Power FC you need to clip two or three wires for it to work correctly. See here: http://westpenn.rx-7.org/ApexiPFCpinout.htm

rynberg

A few comments:

1) Yes, a boost controller will lower your boost to 10 psi. You do not need to port your wastegate -- you are not experiencing boost "creep". I highly recommend the Greddy Profec B, it's simple to use and tune, it's cheap, and it works great.

2) You could always put an M2 or Pettit ECU in the car as they are just modified stock ecus and function exactly as the stock -- except for added on daughterboards that allow higher boost and fuel map changes. No one would be able to distinguish these ecus from stock.

3) You could use the Apexi Power FC. You don't have to cut the wires on the wiring harness to install it (that's not recommended!). You just have to pull the 4 pins on the Power FC itself.

4) You will not run lean with those mods at 10 psi. Not unless something is wrong with your car. It's not expensive to dyno the car and verify your A/F ratios are OK, and it's fun too!

Alien7

iTrader: (1)

Good info Rynberg....thanks!

I've been wanting to do a dyno for awhile now to get a baseline on the car. I'll verify that the a/f ratio is good and then I'll consider the boost controller.

As far as things wrong with the car....it's possible the main cat could be getting a little clogged (my pattern before the exhaust was 10-6-8), but everything else is in order. <knock on wood>

apneablue

I second that...Rynberg helped me tune mine and it works great!

No brainer install and I didn't have to clip anything.

Alien7

iTrader: (1)

I know this has been talked about elsewhere, but since it's relevant I might as well ask the question:

Would it be better for me to just go ahead and spend the money on a Power FC, since the PFC can control boost too? Or is there a benefit to having both?

To me it seems redundant if the PFC can control boost. (I probably would've asked this first, but I had forgotten about that until now)

apneablue

Weeeeeellllll, the PFC will control boost but it doesn't do such a great job....you have much more precice control over boost with a separate boost controler...I have both the PFC and Profec B and before I would jack with the PFC trying to set boost and it wasn't very responsive....Probably becasue most of the time I don't know what I am doing But I played with it quite a bit and could never get it to do exactly what I wanted...Since I installed the Profec B controling boost is a snap...IMO, I think running a separate boost controler gives you better control.