areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone ever cut a small portal/hole (about 4x4 piece ) out of the inner fender well (passenger side of course) to obtain easier access for removal of the pre-cat bolts,... and placement of the DP ? Would this make it easier to install the DP?. Would it damage the structural integrity of the fender well?

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Do not cut holes in your car. If you can't do the job right, hire someone who can.

The downpipe is not an easy installation. It takes time, so take some time and do it right.

Nameless

I agree with adam. The job should not require cutting a hole in your car.... So if you seriously cant do it, just pay someone.

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

It's really not all that hard. Just take your time with it and soak the studs in PB blaster.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yep.

It's just an exhaust part. There is nothing rotary specific about it so ANY exhaust shop can/will to the installation for you.

DK

iTrader: (5)

And that's coming from a cheap bastard!

adam c

iTrader: (2)

That's me!!

rotary-tt

I think where's he's coming from is trying to put on the downpipe with the studs in. In that case you would need an access panel. You need to pull all the studs out of the turbo, line up the new downpipe, then screw in the studs...

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

I think I'll just pull the motor out, install the DP and put new plugs in at the same time.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Some downpipes are made to use the existing studs. The M2 DP is designed to be installed without removing the studs. I don't know what DP he has.

JONSKI

I'll assume you're just kidding. To get the downpipe, remove the y-pipe and everything above it. The hardest part of this is removing the rear intake pipe. I was able to reach behind it from above and used a 7" ratchet with a 2.5" extension. Removing the y-pipe gives you access to three of the nuts. Get the last one from underneath the car. Also, change your plugs from the bottom of the car, or just remove the intake elbow.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

JONSKI: .....I was just joking bout the motor pull. Thanks for the info on the y-pipe.

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

great....now I have to take my downpipe off AGAIN!! Just bring your car over and I will put your DP on for you.

rotary-tt

I used the existing studs. Had trouble getting a couple out and bought 2 new from Mazda (like $10 ea). Didn't remove the Y pipe, only all the soft rubber hoses. I have all kinds of metric sockets, offsets, etc - don't remember what I used. Had to pull all the studs out for my RX7.com SS downpipe to clear the frame then screwed them back in with the stock nuts...

Sinful7

To remove/install down pipe
No need to remove Y pipe, but just all the intake pipes.
I find it easier to undo the engine mount nut on the exhaust side and losen the nut on other side, and then jack(on the bell housing) the engine up and it will tilt to one side and this should give you enough room to remove/install the down pipe.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Well I removed the pre-cat last night without too much trouble. That top rear nut/stud was a bee-achhh. But I was able to get to it with a deep 14mm socket from underneath. The top two studs came off , but the bottom studs didn't.

I ordered a Pettit SS DP which comes with it's own mountind studs so i'm going to have to remove the remaining bottom studs tonight. I checked the pre-cat for signs of "clogging" but really couldn't tell if it was clogged. It actually looked pretty good, from what I could see. It has to weigh at least 25 pounds.

I'm thinking of taking off the Y-pipe for cleaning and polishing while I wait for the DP to get here. I'll let you all know how the DP install goes. Thanks for all your advise.